Recent content by rsi77

Update: I charged my batteries to full charge, and now the system seems to be working quite will. I have them powering a load now, so I will watch to see how well they keep their charge over time.

Minimal loss of voltage with batteries disconnected. I will receive the charger on Wednesday--I will use that to bring both batteries to full charge. I like the idea of a green light to let me know when it's fully charged.

Thanks. I got it up to 25V with the panel. I'll leave unconnected over night and see how it reads in the morning.

Clear enough. Thanks!

To charge separately, do I need a 24v battery charger, or will a solar panel do? "I charged it back up with a panel" means I connected it to a solar panel until it read 24 volts (on par with the other battery), but I realize now the voltage reading itself is not a good indication of equivalent...

Hi All, Last winter my solar system stopped working, system simply stopped--no lights, no noise on inverter. I had too many other projects, plus work travel, etc. so I didn't try to troubleshoot then. But yesterday I finally had a look the system: 2 x 24V Ampere Time 100Ah in series for a 48...

Interesting data. No, there is no way I know of to monitor the battery on a per-cell basis. But I've never seen the voltage drop even below 50V, which should give quite a bit of leeway above the critical point. I do have the means to track voltage on the battery pack, so I might do that and see...

Back up and running?. Thanks for the help. I did use my panels to briefly charge the batteries and once they started reading a voltage again I connected my full array to the Growatt and everything turned on. I found that my low voltage shutoff was set to 42V which is the default. I've never seen...

So what you're saying is that my total voltage likely read higher than the BMS cutoff point, but that the BMS detected a low voltage in one of the cells which initiated the cutoff. Thus I might have one or more bad cells in my batteries? Am I understanding your post correctly?

That's actually a really good idea, and would save me some money. Without even modifying the panel wiring, I could cover some of my panels with a tarp and see if I can achieve an appropriate voltage for manual recharge of the batteries. (My panels are mounted on the ground.)

I have not yet connected it to AC power--but I have all but made the connection. My current array is 6 x 250 W (nominal). I only have about half of my panels set up, so I will likely set up another array and add it to the combiner box in the coming weeks.

Yes, especially with Fall/Winter on the way. I was good all summer, but now there is less sunlight, and apparently I hit the limits of my current system. I already measured my refrigerator and freezer power usage using a Kill-a-watt, but I need to access the actual power of my solar system.

I was thinking the same thing--I'd rather lose power just for the evening, and then have it turn on automatically once the sun started shining, rather than lose power and be forced to intervene with a manual recharge. But I will also want to add some kind of alarm so that I'm aware if/when that...

I also found the following on the Solacity Inc. website: Jump-Starting The BMS To make the BMS switch on again after a low-Voltage disconnect event the battery needs to see a charging Voltage. How much exactly varies from brand-to-brand, but generally this means 14.0 Volt or up (for a 12V...

Thanks! That was very helpful. So it seems likely my batteries are cut off internally by the BMS, and only need a "jump" to get back above the critical shut-off point. If so, it means I may need to give them more charge during the daylight hours so they can last the night now that we are...