My son just bought a trolling motor for his fishing raft. So I built him a 60Ah LiFePO4 battery which all fit neatly in a fat 50 ammo can. The can is tough, has a nice handle, is waterproof (if you get a used one with a good rubber seal, or buy new), and it floats.
Here are the steps:
1. Buy...
Connect the panel, adjust the rheostat until you read max power. There is likely something out there that already does, but I couldn't find it so I just built one.
Ok, OK mega mea culpa. I did have the SCC connected backwards. I checked at the panel but at the SCC which i had wrong. Everything works now
I'm sorry for wasting everybody's time. But I thought I would post some pictures of my project as it may make you smile.
The problem was with the calibration. The video helped a lot. The printed instructions that came with the meter; not so much. I now get 0.11 to 0.12 m Ohms for all cells.
One thing the video did not mention is that when you touch the probes the white wire should connect to the white wire...
The two batteries (yellow boxes) are mounted midship with one on each side to keep the boat balanced. So before the solar panels I just kept everything separate. now thatvi have mounted 3 solar panels maybe you are right I should just make it a parallel system.
The circuit breaker serves two purposes. 1. It protects the wires from getting hot and causing a fire in case of a short circuit. (A fuse would do the same.) 2. It acts as a convenient battery disconnect switch...
A BMS protects from over/under voltage and temperature, but not from over current events. As stated elsewhere on this forum...
Has anyone had there BMS actually shut off from over current or short circuit?
I decided to do some (what turned out to be) destructive testing. I intentionally...
That is right. But I have all of the tools and hardware to reconfigure the system to whatever connectors are available.
I like Anderson connectors because they are strong and you can't accidently hook them up backwards.
On the water! At trolling speed the motor uses a little less than 3 amps. So that is 20+ hours of trolling on one charge. That should be enough for even the most avid fisherman I think.
Yes, the video from Amy and my measurements do not match even though we use the same model of YR meter. My readings are about 10x higher. even after cleaning with scotch brite. I have not used acetone yet. I think that I will go get some and see if that makes a difference.
I have sixteen 280AH cells which I plan on using to make a 16s 48v battery. My problems is that one of the cells is weak, 265 AH. But I also have a spare 60 Ah cell. Can I just add that in parallel to the weak cell to make up the difference. Sort of a 16s with a small kicker?
Thanks,
I have one of those Chinese capacity testers with the fan. I have used it in the past to test 60 AH and 100 AH batteries without problems. Now that I am testing 280 AH cells at 18 amps (max I can get it to go) I noticed that the voltage displayed on tester is 0.3 volts less than that measured...
So the plan would be to not include it in the compression box, but just to put it to the side and wire it in parallel to the weak cell using heavy wire and ring terminals. No bus bars. good plan? bad plan?
Ok, so it is my first winter with my solar panels and as expected they are now covered in snow. I have the ability to redirect water from my hot water heater to an outside hose bib. Should I just hose them down with hot water, or is this going to break the panels?
I plan on using this method for individual cell testing only. When assembled into a battery for daily use I will range between 3.0 to 3.5. But now these are new cells and I am trying to establish a baseline for capacity which I am doing between 2.5 and 3.6. Since this is only being done once...
I have a victron 15/75 scc connected to my 24v battery and two renogy 175 flexible panels connected in series. The victron powers up due to the battery power but does not charge the battery even though the panels are unobstructed and it is a nice sunny day.
I'm not sure if the problem is with...
So this is the nub of my question. When I set my power supply to 3.65v no load, it charges at 10 amps when the cell voltage is low, but slews down to just a few amps when the battery is about 75% full. What I am trying to accomplish is to charge continually at 10 amps until I reach my desired...
Thanks,
The battery is 80% full so there is room to charge. And the SCC is enabled.
I think the problem must be with the panels or the SCC. I am just trying to determine which.
Is connecting a dc power supply to the SCC a good test, or will it be a problem?
I am building two batteries each consisting of 4 strings of sixteen 280 amp hour cells. Each battery will power a Torqeedo cruise 10 outboard motor which will push a 35' trawler. It will be a solar electric boat. Mostly an electric boat, since 80-90% of the electricity will come from shore...
The voltage drop is not between the battery and the tester, the voltage at those two points is the same. (I am using 10 guage wire and the length is only one foot. I am using ring terminals on all four ends.) The drop is between the input of the tester and what the tester displays.
I might...
Hey, thanks for all of your help. It looks like it would work either way. The load is a level 1 car charger connected to a Chevy Bolt. This will draw either 1500 watts or 1050 watts depending on whether by bolt is set to charge at 800 watts or 1200 watts.
My plan is to start with one 24 volt...
BTW, I also reached out to BB and they suggested to not try a 1500 watt load on one battery for even a short time, but that two would handle it just fine.