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Cheers Steve (y)

Thanks, i had seen that for the discharge curves, but nothing in there showing the charging profiles. Upnorthandpersonal posted a chart of 'Winston Cell charging profiles' previously, which i presume will have a similar shape to the xuba 280's, but i'd prefer to see actual profiles of what i'm...

Like you say...the course will still be there next year....good decision, far better to make sure you are too. (y)

Really feel Dacian is missing an increasing market, by not offering a 48v version. As things head to 'all electric' the world over, larger battery banks are going to be sought. :-(

Looking forward to the data that comes out of this project and also the programmability functions of the inverter and charger. (y)

When set at bulk 27.8/float 27.8, does it never then go to float mode, but simply keep on charging in bulk mode? What would be the result if you set the bulk at 27.8, but the float at 27.7, since if the float voltage is below the bulk voltage, no current should then flow...no voltage difference...

See link below for M7 tap. Just make sure you can get a M7 stud in the material you want, as this is an uncommon size. I was getting my flanged stud machined as a special in aluminium....just something to be aware of. HSS Spiral Flute Tap M7 x 1 7mm | eBay

If you had two identical setups, using the same pv panel input and same SCC's, but you set one up to charge at 3.65v/cell and the other to charge at 3.4v/cell, but both had their charges terminated by a BMS exactly when their respective first cell hit of 3.4v, what would be the expected...

I'm assuming there arent any issues using a standard domestic fridge on a mobile motorhome??? This looked quite efficient to me...(annual energy consumption 62kWh), plus greater volume at less than half the cost of a dometic type...

Sorry steve, i should have made clear...this was jasons reply purely on how to connect my 24v battery pack directly to the dc input(external) socket. EDIT....clarification from Jason below

By the way, i meant per £/KW, not just 'simply dearer' because they were bigger....lol.:cry::cry::cry::cry: Normally you would have thought it would have been cheaper purchasing more capacity!!! Think we best get the thread back on track now. :)

I might still do that....depending on final loads etc. Thanks.

Are 'brass' lugs acceptable when connecting the very thin balance wires. I've spotted ones that will allow me to get a really good connection and have a larger surface area for contact? Any real downsides to using brass, for the BMS balance wires?

@snoobler Lucky lucky you. Do you think charging all your cells to the same 3.65v individually, but at the same time/temp/conditions etc, will in theory at least, give you the perfect top balance equivalent? This is interesting.

EllaBella, any plans to charge your 48v battery bank from the alternator? Plenty of 12v-12v systems about, but 48v seems to be a bit convoluted to me. Just asking, as i'm planning a 48v system myself. With Solar pv being the only charging source whilst wild camping, the added bonus of alternator...

Maybe the lower Amps ones are good for maintaining balance thereafter, but you have to get the cells 'there' to start with???

Thanks for the input HaldorEE....fafrd put me wise already. (y)

Also of note, i'm sure i read somewhere(cant find it now:() that doubling up the xuba supplied busbars does not double up the ampacity, but gets you in the region of 175A. Anyone care to confirm this? You end up with so many nuggets of info on these threads, you lose track of them:cry:

@JeepHammer Care to suggest one for a coil input of 12v 0.8A (that covers me which ever way i decide to go). Thanks

On a mobile RV setup, with three charging sources, 1. Solar input via a SCC (constant whilst the sun shines) [0.1C charge rate] 2. A sterling Bat to Bat charger (to charge from vehicle on long drives). [0.2C charge rate]. 3. Charger on a multiplus inv/charger, whose charge function would...

Looking to run my 24V lifepo4 pack at conservative SOC limits. This means setting my low voltage DC input cut off at 25V(3.125v/cell). The only problem with this is, there is an automatic default minimum DC input reset voltage of 2v, thus the unit wont reset for delivering power again till it...

I had thought of using this set up below, thinking that no matter which parameter triggered any relay on either BMS, the central load/charge line gets disconnected. I'm very new to this, so please point out the pitfalls in this design. Thanks

Thanks snoobler...so that is setting up using the first method then with the CV led lit. What happens if you charge using the second method with the CC led lit? At the constant current of 10A, would the voltage fail to come up to 3.65/cell?

Thanks for the link, but i now wonder where the compression of the cells comes from with this set up?

Would this work for twin BMS setup? I was hoping that each BMS16T would provide the details on each individual pack and the 'All in one' unit output the total battery stats plus providing overall control of the charging profile parameters? If manually shutting down any pack at the 100A breaker...

Cheers Cal, but on a 24V RV system, you don't really have external power in the true sense of the word. I believe i read somewhere that if powering the 'DC input' connection from the 24V battery pack, then you would not need the schottky diode. The diode is only necessary for 12V systems, but...

Ok, latest incarnation = A series/parallel stack thus ((()))(((()))((())) x 23pairings. This equates to 3 x 1181N(3543N) at 75% deflection and 3 x 505N(1515N) at 30% deflection with an overall travel dist of 4.14mm. I believe this equates to a range of roughly 15psi - 6psi orrrr... I might...

Maybe fair enough for yourself Jeephammer, but bearing in mind lots of 'Never Did This Before DIY Guy' , like myself, read many of these posts and any extra warnings are well recieved. Easy enough for you with your experience to just ignore and do your own thing, but for the rest of us...

@JeepHammer Sorry JeepHammer(i'm new to this so bear with me please). For clarity... If using a contactor, where the coil input is 48v , the load is up to 400A@48v or if using a contactor where the coil input is 12v load up to 400A@48v, you can use the same diode? Is this correct? So the input...