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That's the way I've been doing it, because that is how it is written here: https://marinehowto.com/lifepo4-batteries-on-boats/ That link is a must read for anyone here, and is probably where this info came from (or vs versa) because it's almost word for word. "Parallel Step-Method Top...

This is an extremely long but well worth it read: https://uwspace.uwaterloo.ca/bitstream/handle/10012/12177/Catton_John.pdf?sequence=3 For degradation of LFP's for various reasons, go to page 23. For SOC, see bottom of page 26. "2.10.1.2.2 Effect of State of Charge (SOC) Testing of various...

When needing to run a new wire through new or existing conduit and there is no pull string to use (as Jeep said, always run one through with your wires!), forget the fish tape. Tie a string to a small piece of a walmart plastic baggie...maybe 4"x4" depending on conduit size, and stick it in one...

There's not much we hams can expect from Joe Q. Public. Just buy decent equipment and correctly install it. If a neighbor knocks on your door with a funny looking yagi antenna and says you are emitting excessive noise, he probably just wants to find the cause and see if HE can help fix it. So...

Order of connection is different than damage occurring if battery is disconnected during use. The battery should always be connected first so the CC can sense the correct battery voltage (when the CC can do 12/24/48v). Once it has that it will be saved in the eprom or ram in case of battery...

Where did I say that? You need to pay more attention to the meaning of words before jumping down someone's throat. Shunbin=crappy, Victron/Battleborn=reputable/quality but way overpriced. I won't bother replying to the rest of your post because it is all based on your false assumption I said...

Don't buy any more of that junk. You can do much better for less!

The answer is probably in the name SHUN-BIN. Loosely translated these cells are probably factory rejects , or from the BINs that were deemed unacceptable. Electronic (battery) manufacturers test their products and separate them into BIN #s. The good bins go into electric cars, street...

@Delta-V Thank you for the tests. I, like many others here want to see the real, raw, un-"conversion-loss" numbers and I think you are on the right track. As I've said before, even if they don't meet the rated capacity they may still be a great deal. We have enough fan-boys here, we don't...

No, I'm guessing it starts with a "C" and ends with an "a"...and it ain't Canada. ;)

Yes, and if you go by those tests, charging to 3.3v per cell (26.4v) doesn't give you much capacity. So I'd expect a lot of voltage sag. The blue line on the left is the discharge curve of a cell only charged to 3.3v. You can see that bumping the charge to at least 3.4vpc makes a huge difference.

You got a lotta balls for someone proven so wrong by the FUDsters about buying crappy Shunbin batteries. Did you not learn a single lesson from that? And people refused the change from steam engines because they worked very well, lasted a long time, and other technology wasn't ready for...

All good questions that I don't think any of us have the answers to YET. This technology is still in it's relative infancy. Usually, if I hear something from someone who is more knowledgeable than me on a subject, I listen. If it makes sense to me, I try and follow. The difference in time and...

Why not lower your max state of charge to about 80% when fully "charged", and leave the system connected. With your minimal needs there's no need to ever fully charge those lifepo's.

350w out of 4 100w panels in seattle in the winter actually sounds pretty good! You'll probably see an increase in the summer, but I don't think you have anything "wrong" with your setup.

That is very true, but can also be a little misleading. Sure, the lower you take the cells the less charge cycles they will last. Keep it to a 30% DoD and it may last 2000 cycles, but if you always take it down to 80% you may only get 200 good cycles. If your use calls for daily cycling, like...

The point to take away from his post is...not every application requires expensive batteries. 9 years out of $200 worth of batteries in the AZ heat is great no matter how you look at it. We still don't know if those blue china LFP cells will last that long under ANY condition...time will tell...

I remember what a FUDster is. You called me one when I warned you to stay away from Shun-Bin....;). Sometimes FUDsters are correct.

I've never grounded a portable genny, and probably never will. Unless I get killed, then I'll start using one. :) There are times when you should ground them, and also times you shouldn't ground them. And I can never care to remember which is which.

Use a lead acid battery.

That's closer than most lead acid banks so don't sweat it. Parallel a 12.80 with a 12.84 (x2), then put them in series and they will be as close as they ever will be again.

Most people can get by with a properly sized HF, but if you're running very high surge devices like deep well pumps or big shop tools, a LF inverter would be the way to go. They have a large transformer with a "flywheel effect" that can handle the surges better.

Looks like he gave you both ends of the spectrum (min and max projected cycles ). The sweet spot for your parameters would probably be right in the middle...500 cycles at 50% DOD. At only $100, to reduce DOD just add another battery. But like I said, max cycles is not what LA's are all...

I was skimming through the facebook marketplace and saw something interesting for $50. The first thing I thought of was a rack for a simple small sun tracking system...might be able to hold 1kw of panels if you don't get much wind?... It's a drywall hoist: Moderator's Note: Careful with this...

Maybe you should learn what you are doing before buying 5 sets in 8 years (I smell BS). People who know how to properly design and maintain their systems don't have that problem. So go ahead and blame the batteries instead of learning what you are doing wrong. If you can't keep LA's alive...

Should be fine. Make sure you have enough battery to go a few days without power. Turtle lives matter :).

I'll play the game even though I don't like the rules. ? I used the battery I've been using on my boats for a long time. It's a true deep cycle made by East Penn and sold under many different brands like Duracell (Sears, some Walmarts), Superstart (O'reilly) and others. I paid $95 each at...

Yup, and some will even trip with only 20A after lots of continuous use (found this out with boat motor use). Most of those breakers are cheap copies of the Bussman brand breakers that cost only a few dollars more. ONLY buy the original...this is not a place to save a tiny bit of money.

Another perfect situation to save a fortune and just use lead acids. Lithium is nothing but a liability here, no advantages.

Hey, that's the way I always test my 9v batteries :cool: