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This post has really got me thinking. I might sell my EV & make one of these. Edit, but I don't like the shape of that cab, let alone the smug grin of the driver...

double it & add 30. It doesn't take long to get used to deg C when Water freezes at 0 & boils at 100

I always agreed with that until I have to hang a Victron Quattro 15kVA on the wall in a 5ft high shed with no room for a second person. It took me an hour to recover. I guess I specified wrong shed, not wrong inverter though!

Great write up thanks. You mention efficiency of the pads. That's a bit of a misnomer - Any resistive heater is 100% efficient. The only thing controlling the 'efficiency' is the heat loss, which is determined by the insulation. I wouldn't want people to feel these pads offered vast benefits...

Why say that? It helps nobody.

thanks @Gazoo & @Dzl That's cleared it up well enough for me. I was about 5 pages into the other thread & don't need to finish it now.

I've got a 3kW kettle and a 430kW car. (EV) Time is precious - I might be dead tomorrow (especially with that car...)

Probably the best the manufacturer can get out of it, whatever load that may be

I'm in the UK & frankly I'm staggered by the level of imposed state control for PV & storage in the "Land of the 'free' "

I've got a challenge for you. I lock you in my shipping container where the inverters are. I put a leaf on one of the panels. All you have to do is identify which string is now Fubar as a result of the leaf. You get it wrong, you stay in there. How confident are you in your statement?

3.65V is absolute top whack. 3.60V if under 10 deg C. Not much to gain above 3.45 though

Datasheet says 2.5V cutoff, but anything under under 3.1V you're flogging a dead horse

That pressure is, in my opinion, only referring to atmospheric pressure. 86KPa~106KPa pressure is 860-1060 mBar. I hate kPa. So this is really just saying only test them in regular atmospheric conditions, not in a diving bubble or plane or whatever. Thanks for the attachments. I have version E...

Very true. Many years ago I caused some head scratching in an EMP proof building when I noted that the contractors had a radio playing. I believe it was something as innocuous as an extension lead running through the bulkhead during construction.

Sorry, there's only one person hanging themselves on that hook. And thanks for the abstract lesson on how people get confused with units of power & energy. One of the challenges is using materials that don't break down with long term use at elevated temperatures.

They will probably arrive in a little envelope, labelled "bus-bars for 320Ah cells"

You're seeming very knowledgeable. Could you tell us about 5G cancer, Vaccines, Chemtrails & JFK? Don't make it too depressing though - I might go & jump off the edge of the earth.

You seemingly believe all this tosh. If you start posting relevant stuff I'll help. Any more nonsense & I'll report you & encourage others to do so. This is your opportunity to listen and learn... you won't 'convert' anyone here, they are too well grounded. 200 ohms or less typically.

If we can calculate the volume of water and the required temperaure rise, we can answer this question. The following formula is used to calculate the power of heating element needed to heat a specific volume of water by a given temperature rise in 1 hour. volume in litres x 4 x temperature...

My brain is now officially melted. And I got the question wrong. Please tell me that all those (mainly Indian) videos are now true and all I need to power my house is some long cables, lossy rubber belts, a flywheel and a well trained hamster called Elvis.

Buy a woodburner with an air inlet connection. Makes a closed loop - well, half a closed loop, but closed as far as the house is concerned

Get yourself a cheap Digital MultiMeter & set it to Volts DC. Measure the voltage across each of the cells & report back

Does your Fluke not have a max/min recording capability?

You are earthing your frame, not the actual PV part, which sits inside a glass casing

Use these - same thing, but you can run off 12/24V https://www.led-tech.de/en/21x-Samsung-LM301B-stripe-4000k

Need height rise if not closed loop

Turn it off & go back to the design phase & post your proposed design here for feedback. Don't try to resolve the current setup until you know what safe looks like. There's some horrible advice here and you could be one fault/action away from a lethal situation.

Not seen it, but I'll wager that he doesn't mention whether it's remotely viable. He (quite skillfully) avoids letting users know if his suggestions are remotely viable. I'm sure he's fully conversant with kW, kWh etc but I've yet to hear it across any of his projects. His unit of power is "wow...

Hi, I see so much speculation about what/how various BMSs work & worry slightly about battery capacities. So I'm considering getting some test kit to monitor every cell voltage in a 16s LifePO4 battery during charge & discharge. There's various options for taking data from a BMS & getting into...

I wouldn't describe 100% efficient water heating as inefficient and can't understand why the volume makes any difference. There are certainly more efficient ways, but that comes with a capital cost - which could be spent on more panels.