Back to VA, watts and power factor...
I like the visual graphic from Xantrex explaining how the entire sine wave is not always utilized showing the device may only use a fraction of the available apparent power...
https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors#?specs=315
Way better than a cigar connector that somehow meets code in an RV. Nothing sacred about J-Boxes.
All the pictured connectors in the OP would seem to imply other than 12vdc is available.
Standard wall plate:
Was the increasing electric rates included in the calculation?
Was improved lifestyle adjustment included for not being concerned about usage or paying the bill?
What is the return when the power is on during a utility outage?
Unless there is a compelling reason to go with 12v or 24v.... best to just go right to 48v.
A reason to stay at 12v or 24v is to connect to an existing system and match voltage such as 12v RV system.
Bolt 2020 and newer says rated 259 miles. 150 is a huge red flag that I would not buy except at a deep 50% discount.
Even the 2017-2019 models with 238 miles showing 150 is bad news.
150 miles can easily cramp your style.
I thought some of these had a battery recall. Could be the recall has...
Electrically it is the same for a single circuit. Convention is to have this stuff on the positive. The negative is considered a ground and is best to be hard wired. If you start to mix and match and there is a fault it may cross over with some other circuit and create an issue.
Yes from your search....
Sales data cited by Heatmap actually show that "sales of battery electric and plug-in hybrid vehicles in the third quarter of 2023 exhibited the strongest year-on-year growth since the fourth quarter of 2021." The outlet also noted that sales of EVs topped one million...
Don't forget the price of good lead is not exactly low cost. Especially when 3x to 4x the capacity must be purchased to compare with LFP.
No possible way would I go back to lead except for the start battery in a vehicle.
Reduce the design spec by 10% - 20% and you will have a safety margin. 150v controller? Keep your panel Voc about 120v max.
Same with your 2000 watt inverter. Load to 1800 watts max.
Keep your engine 500+ RPM below redline.
Use only 80% of the full capacity of those lithium batteries...
Assuming a propane furnace I would start with a portable generator and a battery charger (10+ amps) to get the 12v system working. Easier to think when you have heat, lights and water etc. Good chance the the 12v batteries are shot. Put the charger direct on them. No need to disconnect. And...
I am on a similar program where the compressor can be shut off by the utility. Rarely happens. And usually the event occurs maybe 5pm to 9pm when I generally keep my A/C off due to high TOU rates. Close to $120 bill credit each year.
If these "outraged" people don't like it.... just drop out...
1) Fortune? Five year payback is 20% return. One of my best investments.
2a) Recycling? Should last 40+ years, what else lasts that long?
2b) Congo? OK nobody likes child labor. Congo needs better laws and enforcement. If there was any better opportunity this would go away. Bad situation...
Keep the horse in front of the cart....
Size the inverter based on the load. Size the battery based on the inverter. May need 2 or 3 of those batteries.
Unless it is something specific I would get about 400w for small stuff and if going bigger jump right to 2000.
Yes the main cost component of an EV drops in half and yet sales expected to continue dropping?
Actually I don't see EV sales dropping at all.... maybe production has been a bit aggressive for some models sitting on the lot but sales continue up.
Tesla is again making price cuts.
Or in lieu of...
Might be better to see a graph of total EVs on the road each month before saying adoption has fallen or even stalled.
I see close to 100,000 EVs getting adopted every month. Says to me the growth of growth might be slowing but more EVs still on the road each week.
OK I have a problem at 10:30 that CA grid cannot handle EV charging and I believe that is completely false.
VERY rare for CA to have an outage due to lack of generation. And the CA grid is getting better every day.
Possibly the battery BMS was cycling based on a cell above maximum voltage. I suggest reducing the absorption voltage to 14.0 to 14.2 and try again tomorrow. If this works for a few weeks increase the voltage 0.1 and observe again.
Looks like a learning experience we all fear could happen during a first build. Much knowledge has been gained. I would go again with some new cells, proper retention and BMS connected from the start.
All that can be done is move forward.
To move forward in life people need to develop skills to do these things or earn the money pay to have it done.
Find what you are good at and then level up and be great at it.
There will always be many that just pay the electric supplier and take life as it comes. Nothing wrong with this...
I would worry more about squatters moving in and setting up a meth lab.
Who is checking on the place? Maybe a text every few days that electrical all is OK.
Best to calculate cross sectional area and compare with wire. 2 x 20 = 40mm2 or 5% more than #1 awg that goes 250 amps. The bar is in free air and a little larger so 300 amp seems reasonable. Although I would not run them at 300 amps for more than surge performance. Closer to 200 will keep...
From the Overkill manual FAQ:
Q: What is the quiescent current? What can I do for long-term storage?
A: The quiescent current is as follows: (this was measured on a 4 cell BMS)
● 5.5 milliamps with everything off, when the BMS is active, but no bluetooth.
● 15 milliamps with the bluetooth...
Great to hear the story. My TriStar MPPT-60 has been running continuous at least 10 years. I kept an old WIN95 netbook to program and recently updated to LFP without issue.