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An absorption fridge was designed to work primarily on a heat source, be it LPG or electric. They are not known for efficiency especially on electricity, it's just a heating element. A compressor fridge will use much less electric power but is unuseable on gas.....any reason you don't want to...

Again-you need a 30 amp controller to harvest all the power a 320 watt can produce. The victron you linked will give you 15amps max... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123745548091?epid=9037182187&hash=item1ccfcf373b:g:YI0AAOSwOgFc5mmU

IMHO Romex is fine, your whole RV is wired with it. Some will suggest stranded marine wire, certainly nicer but can be really pricey.

You should not be trying to power your inverter through the "load" port of a solar controller, they have a low current capability. Also search for topics on "pre charge".

For drilling lugs try a step drill, they work well and don't grab...... Not suggesting Amazon-just using them for the photo..... https://www.amazon.ca/Hotbestus-Multiple-Multi-Functional-Industrial-Metalworking/dp/B07FDB3GN8/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=step+drill&qid=1634268210&sr=8-13

The interconnect wire size and configuration of the wiring to the inverter is very important as well....how the neg and pos come off the battery pack

My concern with VHB installs is not the 3m tape, but what it is applied to. If it is on a regular RV with EPDM roof the results may not be satisfactory....

The current is limited on the load port of your controller. It is not normally used, wire your fuse block to the battery.

"1. Is it worth it to install an Inverter / Charger" Yes and no-great answer eh? In some trailers the inverter location and power centre are very far apart, running those wires is the biggest problem with installs. If everything is in the same area they are the best choice. The pricing should be...

You might try disconnecting the neutral at the inverter input to test the most likely cause of your issues. If the neutral/ground bond is not being disconnected that would prove it. Turning off the a/c breaker to the inverter only disconnects the hot side and will not help much in your...

Compressor motor will not be happy on modified sine, most electronics don't care. Sine wave for sure, suggest LF type inverter, but will probably work on HF inverter depending on specs of the AC unit

Elaborate? It's too early here to try explaining myself.... Ignore the size and material of the example and the poor mounting in the background, I wouldn't do it that way again.... You could attach to unistrut or directly to the solar panel....

All parallel cables should be the same length, series cables not so much-shorter is better. If your positives are the same as each other and the negatives the same as each other you are good....

What is between the battery and inverter? Size of BMS, wire size and length, switches/fuses. Something appears to be drawing your voltage down too much. Have you tested voltage drop with a nice stable resistive load such as a heater or hair dryer?

Check and clean your terminals/bussbars.........and try again

This is from the Go Power site somewhere, can't remember how it was found. You would have to find a suitable in line fuse/breaker arrangement....The wiring would work with most transfer switches. Might want something like this...

Put the load on it and use your meter to look for voltage drop from lug to bolt term, bolt term to fuse, across the fuse and......

Take a look here....... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/475860367261873/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post He has a warehouse in Van. as well.

My thoughts are that type of screw in connection with stranded wire is not suitable for high amperage-crimp connections only....

Do not adjust the power supply when connected to a load (the cells)-you will toast the cells.... Set the supply when disconnected and leave it-the voltage drops because of the load. Do not increase the voltage... turn it all off until you understand it..... You may be better of setting the...

Going back to post #9 Yes for all the high amperage wires being short. The WFCO power system if ok for lithium but will be a little slow charging. Phase 1...you may want to add a DC/DC charger for the tow vehicle, the lithium can overwhelm you truck alternator. Use a bussbar for the negative...

Your inverter manual calls for 4/0 wiring to be used and a 350a fuse. And as 740GLE said that circuit breaker is certainly not up to the task. Try measuring the voltage drop across it with a load on and post the results.

Orientation is usually due to feed, aerial feeds main breakers up, underground feed mains down. The neat coils are probably not dead, they look like GFI or arc fault breakers which have a tail. That install wouldn't pass up here, can't run wires through the main breaker compartment, there should...

I feel butyl tape is fine in that application, but in the rainy north west you need lap sealant behind the "z" bracket as well. The best butyl is Eternabond double stick, it works really well. If you make your brackets out of 2 pieces of angle aluminum with 1 nut/bolt holding them together it's...

Hmmmmm.....conundrum I'm looking at........ https://www.swfastener.com/pdf/RIVNUT-TheOriginalRivnut.pdf I think you may only need to go to a bigger grip range.

OK......

Just order a 60a JBD and plug it in. The cells are fine, BMS not so much. I find cutting the case at the seam much neater and easier than prying it apart…. I Use a hacksaw So does that mean Renogy isn’t scum?

If you want to do internal changes get yourself some Wago's or equivalent but don't buy them online too many knock offs I would hard wire the inverter don't bother with any plugs..

A 12 volt incandescent light bulb will probably work.

Your controller probably has a fuse, if you are lucky it may have blown with the sudden surge you subjected it to.....but even if blown it may have done damage.