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Victron Phoenix Inverter 12V 1200VA 120v with induction cook top

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klempak

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Hi,
I am thinking about getting Victron Phoenix Inverter 12V 1200VA 120v for my small camper to provide power for single burner induction cook top and occasionally charging power tools batteries.
Do you guys think I can get away with 1200w or should I get 2000w. My components are all Victron so I was hoping to stay with the same brand.
Thanks
 
@HarryN has posted about the difference in induction cooktops.

So ,,, It depends 🤷‍♂️.

The induction cooktop make/model matters & the power pull matters (especially if 1800W the lower setting say 800W does it by pulse “time on @ 1800W”).

You might be ok or not.

The trick is to “match” your cooktop to your inverter. If you don’t want the hassle of that then go 2000W.

Also, understanding efficiency of inverters (are max efficiency) & are not @ max power ,,, far less ,,, so there is a lot going on & you are kinda asking how long a piece of string is ,,, really depends upon your system as a whole ,,, not one component.
 
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Almost all induction burners are 1800w, even single burners. I read all the cooking threads, here and at ExpeditionPortal and OverlandBound. Anyone who gets a burner less than the 1800w ends up posting that it is too weak, pretty much. The 1800W say 8" induction ring, but that is a marketing claim, the actual heat circle is just 4" pretty much. The lower wattage ones, 1200w is what I've seen, have like a 3" actual heat ring, pretty much just a wee hot spot.

Also, it's an induction magnetic load, not resistance, so you can get more spike issues. Yes, you can find a 1200W cooktop, but I would say you should get a 2000W inverter minimum, and get the standard 1800W. I got a 2200W inverter 4400W surge capability, specifically planning for 1800w induction burner.
 
Thank you all for your imputs. I guess I will go with 2000w. Victron Multiplus is nice unite but it is just too big. I guess I am going to try Renogy 2000w, unless you guys think there is better option in small form factor.
Thanks
 
Mp2 is flatter if that helps. Don't skimp out on an inverter plus if you have other vistron gear it's the key to managing everything. Add a cerbogx and now you see and control the whole electric system.

Not to mention you get power assist so whatever shore connection you get 2000w above that. On 15a you now have double that.
 
justinm001 said:
Mp2 is flatter if that helps. Don't skimp out on an inverter plus if you have other vistron gear it's the key to managing everything. Add a cerbogx and now you see and control the whole electric system.

Not to mention you get power assist so whatever shore connection you get 2000w above that. On 15a you now have double that.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately Mp2 will not fit, thank you!
 
One thing to watch is that Watts does NOT equal VA...
Only on a pure resistance with a power factor of 1 does W=VA...
With a power factor of 0.8 (a common rating for generators and inverters, a 1000Va inverter rated at 0.8Pf will only drive a 800w purely resistive load... and if the Pf is 0.5 (as is common in many inductive loads) then that drops even further- unfortunately many devices specs don't list the actual Pf involved, which can lead to people thinking that their inverter can handle much more than it can in reality... (and that they are using more battery power than they think)- a trap many have fallen into...

Using a meter with power factor measurements can open your eyes to what your AC loads are really doing- here a screenshot of Big Clive using one, with a 'decorative' flame LED lamp having a PF of 0.4!!!
1708209309883.png
 
Dave in AZ said:
Almost all induction burners are 1800w, even single burners. I read all the cooking threads, here and at ExpeditionPortal and OverlandBound. Anyone who gets a burner less than the 1800w ends up posting that it is too weak, pretty much. The 1800W say 8" induction ring, but that is a marketing claim, the actual heat circle is just 4" pretty much. The lower wattage ones, 1200w is what I've seen, have like a 3" actual heat ring, pretty much just a wee hot spot.

Also, it's an induction magnetic load, not resistance, so you can get more spike issues. Yes, you can find a 1200W cooktop, but I would say you should get a 2000W inverter minimum, and get the standard 1800W. I got a 2200W inverter 4400W surge capability, specifically planning for 1800w induction burner.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your replay, what induction cooktop do you have? I wanted to get one from IKEA TILLREDA however few people state that it has parasitic draw of 100 - 150w when it is not ON.
 
klempak said:
Thank you for your replay, what induction cooktop do you have? I wanted to get one from IKEA TILLREDA however few people state that it has parasitic draw of 100 - 150w when it is not ON.
Click to expand...
Duxtop Portable Induction Cooktop, Countertop Burner Induction Hot Plate with LCD Sensor Touch 1800 Watts, Silver 9600LS/BT-200DZ https://a.co/d/duFPdfI

I read 5000 reviews. The push button ones have issues, so sensor touch better. This one is good for my camper. I might get same version but that sets into countertop OR sits on top.
 
Video evidence of Victron 24VA 1200VA Phoenix inverter powering an induction cooktop (and more). 4 minutes duration.

Victron 24V 1200VA Inverter Induction Cooktop (With Titanium Pot) And Parabolic Personal Heater
 
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It depends on the current drawn (notice he said he couldn't use the high heat settings)
 
@KITROBASKIN
Lol, that's the worst. He got the tiniest wee simmer bubble, not a boil, rest was vibration, and he was all "oh yah starting to boil!". Not even clise to a boil. And running on reduced setting. Have you actually used one? Low setting, It's like putting your 12" frypan on a small gas burner on med, useless for cooking.

The OP wants to know what it takes to use a normal induction cooker, for system design, the answer is 1800w min. I'm sure someone has cooked an egg over a bic lighter, that doesn't mean it's now the recommended solution. Trying to keep guy from a bad choice here.
 
Dave in AZ said:
@KITROBASKIN
Lol, that's the worst. He got the tiniest wee simmer bubble, not a boil, rest was vibration, and he was all "oh yah starting to boil!". Not even clise to a boil. And running on reduced setting. Have you actually used one? Low setting, It's like putting your 12" frypan on a small gas burner on med, useless for cooking.

The OP wants to know what it takes to use a normal induction cooker, for system design, the answer is 1800w min. I'm sure someone has cooked an egg over a bic lighter, that doesn't mean it's now the recommended solution. Trying to keep guy from a bad choice here.
Click to expand...
Completely agree and like I said with mine. Makes a massive difference if using both burners at same time. Have to boil water using just 1 then can use the other one and keep the water on med.
 
Dave in AZ said:
@KITROBASKIN
Lol, that's the worst. He got the tiniest wee simmer bubble, not a boil, rest was vibration, and he was all "oh yah starting to boil!". Not even clise to a boil. And running on reduced setting. Have you actually used one? Low setting, It's like putting your 12" frypan on a small gas burner on med, useless for cooking.

The OP wants to know what it takes to use a normal induction cooker, for system design, the answer is 1800w min. I'm sure someone has cooked an egg over a bic lighter, that doesn't mean it's now the recommended solution. Trying to keep guy from a bad choice here.
Click to expand...
Yes I agree as well, I do not want to wait for hot water forever. I will go with 2000w inverter, still leaning towards Renogy thanks to the form factor and definitely 1800w induction cooktop. The guy in video is using NuWave induction cooktop that few people on Ford Transit forum use even with Magnum 1000w inverter, but I am sure it will take time to boil pot of water.

Is there any known issue with Renogy inverter, I am basing my decision on this guy that has been using his with induction for some time now.

 
klempak said:
Yes I agree as well, I do not want to wait for hot water forever. I will go with 2000w inverter, still leaning towards Renogy thanks to the form factor and definitely 1800w induction cooktop. The guy in video is using NuWave induction cooktop that few people on Ford Transit forum use even with Magnum 1000w inverter, but I am sure it will take time to boil pot of water.

Is there any known issue with Renogy inverter, I am basing my decision on this guy that has been using his with induction for some time now.

Click to expand...
The NuWave is decent, it did well on a couple overlanding shootouts between units.
 
One thing- with electronics- always expect a shorter service life if you make a habit of running them 'balls to the wall'- it is better to have a slightly larger inverter that can run the loads without 'maxing out', it will last far longer than one that is giving its all on a regular basis...
 
Rude, mistaken perspective comments from 'Dave is an AZ' aside, I can bring 2 cups of rice with water to a boil in about 7 minutes (in summer), then simmer for 40 minutes. I know because I set the induction cooktop timer to go off when on medium high. Anyone wanting proof needs to record, using their induction cooktop to accomplish the same. Then I will record what I do. It should be said that we are living at 7200 feet in elevation.

Renogy is a rebadged (less expensive purchased straight from China) economy inverter. That explains the size and price. It may work for your needs. From what has been written here on diysolarforums, not using an inverter to the max should make it last longer. Curious to see if that Renogy can sustain 2000W for very long. Hopefully, as that is what is being advertised, right?

Maybe induction cooktops have improved, but some in the past did not have enough low temp adjustability settings. One setting is not hot enough to simmer, the next one up is too hot and brings the food to boil.
 
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