Another Transfer switch question 20amp and 50amp circuits

So I'm in the process of installing 6000xp with batteries and the plan is to have my current grid as the backup and to run larger loads in my garage. I really wanted to install a manual transfer switch but I've run into an issue. Most transfer switches (30amp or 50amp models) I've seen have a few 15amp breakers, a 20amp double and maybe a 30amp double at most. I thought some of this would be good to run my lights and critical loads but many of my current breaker panel circuits are 20amp for outlets, lights, etc. I also have some larger 60amp for a big central AC style heat pump, a 50amp for a my 220v hot tub and a 50amp for a hot water heater.

I would love to run my small (3kw heater) hot tub off solar as it sucks energy but that doesn't seem possible with a transfer switch, even if I have enough watts from my array/batteries. I assume I'd need to just install a sub panel and move on?

Also it seems that these 20amp branch outlets, etc. can't be supported through the transfer switches I've seen.

Should I just scrap the transfer switch route and just subpanel it all? I really hate to do that as I want to use the grid as little as possible and move sources as needed depending on the time of year, etc.

With only a single 6000xp, ya wont be outputting over 30A from solar, so a critical loads subpanel makes sense.
While, a 20A lighting circuit seems like it may need 20A breaker, it will operate fine with a 15A running it.
Same goes for the receptacle circuit... dont put big loads on them.
The double 20A can feed a pair of 20A receptacle circuits...

I am not sure why you have a 50A breaker on a water heater. What kind of water heater is it? What wattage element?

There are also manual transfer switches with a simple locking pair of 50A breakers to toggle between inputs.
And you feed a standard subpanel with whatever breakers you want in the critical load panel.

Supervstech said:

With only a single 6000xp, ya wont be outputting over 30A from solar, so a critical loads subpanel makes sense.
While, a 20A lighting circuit seems like it may need 20A breaker, it will operate fine with a 15A running it.
Same goes for the receptacle circuit... dont put big loads on them.
The double 20A can feed a pair of 20A receptacle circuits...

I am not sure why you have a 50A breaker on a water heater. What kind of water heater is it? What wattage element?

There are also manual transfer switches with a simple locking pair of 50A breakers to toggle between inputs.
And you feed a standard subpanel with whatever breakers you want in the critical load panel.

Click to expand...

I agree a single 6000xp won't generate that much but I'll be adding a second array and second 6000xp later this year so trying to plan ahead.

It's a big Rheem electric water heater. I doubt it's drawing over 30amps but the prior owner seemed to over build the entire system.

I've thought about going the interlock route but the main panel was mounted upside down for some odd reason and it would require moving a lot of breakers the way they set it up. I might still go that route but again I want to be able to use grid and solar at the same time.

Thanks for the advice.

Second vote for a sub panel. Especially since you plan to expand your system in the future.

A standard tank electric water heater wont draw over 20A unless it has been rewired to burn both elements ar the same time.