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Guidance please before I pull trigger? Shuttle bus conversion solar set up. Please help :-)

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ShuttleBus

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Hi!
Purchased a shuttle bus conversion earlier this year, wife & I intend on going full time living in December. The bus is currently set up with a RV style 30 amp hookup, which is great & runs the RV styled A/C unit when plugged in to shore or generator (plz don’t hate me, it was an in a pinch purchase).

However, when we move in do not want to only have power in back of bus when we’re hooked up somewhere. So have been scouring the net at every 3k watt inverter & inverter charger I could find & simply cannot figure out what’s the best route.

Have read that 48v battery is the best route, was thinking of 200ah. However, that is whenever I got lost in what 3k inverter to go for or an inverter / charger combo (renogy, bougerv, redodo).

Then I stumbled upon the EG4 all in one variety that caught my eye, but have read / seen an issue with those & connecting a generator. So if went that route, would potentially need the chargeverter as well.

All of this with solar in addition of course. Have been browsing santan for cheaper panels, but wanted to sort the battery & inverter situation first.

Please, could you help. I’m a novice & spending hours upon hours in YouTube university.

Thank you!!
 
You are way ahead since you haven’t bought a bunch of junk yet.

And welcome.

Need to know your power requirements.
 
Yes, need to know your power requirements. Especially how much you plan on using your AC and what ambient temps you are going to be living in. AC is a major power draw that most can't run for a long time on their battery systems.

Does your RV already have a house battery and inverter or any other electrical equipment? Is this 12v, 24v, 48v?
 
Bluedog225 said:
You are way ahead since you haven’t bought a bunch of junk yet.

And welcome.

Need to know your power requirements.
Click to expand...
Appreciate it! Thank you!
Intend on following cooler weather, so in an ideal sense we won’t be using the full A/C unit too often. Will be installing a MaxxAir deluxe fan that will run more often, to circulate air. Beyond that, there’s small rv can lights throughout along with house outlets that’ll be used. Wife & I laptop charger + Starlink WiFi for full time working. Also in the market for a 12v fridge & if I cannot find an affordable option, it’ll be a rv specific energy efficient style (tbd).

The 30amp set up is to a breaker box. No tv. We intend on also having a small portable jackery style box for extra convenience for phones & whatnot. Have added a photo of the current set up.
 

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SolarFlares said:
Yes, need to know your power requirements. Especially how much you plan on using your AC and what ambient temps you are going to be living in. AC is a major power draw that most can't run for a long time on their battery systems.

Does your RV already have a house battery and inverter or any other electrical equipment? Is this 12v, 24v, 48v?
Click to expand...
Aiming to stick to nicer weather, where A/C requirements are minimal as I know it’ll be a huge draw. Plan to follow the cooler & if need to use A/C hook up the generator or shore power.

Wife & I will work full time so we’ll have laptops + Starlink going nearly daily. Maxxair fan for the cooling / air flow. Have yet to find a fridge that’s properly efficient, the current one is a classic college mini fridge.

Not sure precisely what the 30amp rv plug gives as far as 12v etc.. but there is no house battery or anything. It was a shuttle bus for a casino that’s since been converted to live in. The previous owner wanted to just have RV style hook up with 30amps. They also had an 1100w inverter & a small 12v 50ah trolling motor battery when bought it. Know that we’ll be upgrading that, but they did install an on / off switch that’ll allow to switch from rv 30 amp to battery / inverter. I attached a photo in a comment above of the current breaker system.

Thank you very much!!
 
ShuttleBus said:
Appreciate it! Thank you!
Intend on following cooler weather, so in an ideal sense we won’t be using the full A/C unit too often. Will be installing a MaxxAir deluxe fan that will run more often, to circulate air. Beyond that, there’s small rv can lights throughout along with house outlets that’ll be used. Wife & I laptop charger + Starlink WiFi for full time working. Also in the market for a 12v fridge & if I cannot find an affordable option, it’ll be a rv specific energy efficient style (tbd).

The 30amp set up is to a breaker box. No tv. We intend on also having a small portable jackery style box for extra convenience for phones & whatnot. Have added a photo of the current set up.
Click to expand...
There's alot of shine in that box first think I would do is tidy that up cut down any excess conductor or double it over, the main neutral would be better fitted into the other side of the connector allowing better access to the low voltage fuses.
Skipping at AC unit entirely I'd recommend a more modular approach most of your demands will likely be on the 12v side it seems so the Inverter won't need to be that big which is good because it's not recommended to really go over 2000w@12v the lower the better due to amperage. Victron seems to get a good shout here but I'm not familiar with it atall so no idea what to recommend but I would suggest you look at available space for mounting panels that will be the other factor other than usage when suggesting charge controllers etc
 
Select an all in one unit for a 48 volt system. Add a 48 to 12 v. step down transformer for the “RV” type loads. Use a 120 volt residential refrigerator. I have used SanTan panels for years with great results!

Keep asking questions ⚡️
Go south to Quartzsite AZ and see thousands of RVs with solar next winter!
 
GaRay said:
Select an all in one unit for a 48 volt system. Add a 48 to 12 v. step down transformer for the “RV” type loads. Use a 120 volt residential refrigerator. I have used SanTan panels for years with great results!

Keep asking questions ⚡️
Go south to Quartzsite AZ and see thousands of RVs with solar next winter!
Click to expand...

Appreciate it! Plan to be in AZ in January!

For example, an EG4 3k watt & a 48v battery, then through a 48v -> 12v converter. But that’s where I guess I get lost, following the 12v conversion, do I connect to the breaker box that I’ve got already or the on / off switch, etc.
 
ThaiTaffy said:
There's alot of shine in that box first think I would do is tidy that up cut down any excess conductor or double it over, the main neutral would be better fitted into the other side of the connector allowing better access to the low voltage fuses.
Skipping at AC unit entirely I'd recommend a more modular approach most of your demands will likely be on the 12v side it seems so the Inverter won't need to be that big which is good because it's not recommended to really go over 2000w@12v the lower the better due to amperage. Victron seems to get a good shout here but I'm not familiar with it atall so no idea what to recommend but I would suggest you look at available space for mounting panels that will be the other factor other than usage when suggesting charge controllers etc
Click to expand...
Plan on cleaning it up, have an electrician friend that suggested a few different caps to clean it.

Could definitely have the a/c not connected to battery, just run it with the generator. Avoid that even possibility of the battery being drained. Had thought going with 3k watt would just give us enough room for anything bigger, if gaming system or two get connected (PlayStation / switch) etc, yet those also can be just when shore powered.
Victron is a common suggestion, fairly pricey, but I’m sure it comes with the quality.
 
ShuttleBus said:
Appreciate it! Plan to be in AZ in January!

For example, an EG4 3k watt & a 48v battery, then through a 48v -> 12v converter. But that’s where I guess I get lost, following the 12v conversion, do I connect to the breaker box that I’ve got already or the on / off switch, etc.
Click to expand...
You would connect the 12 volt supply from the converter to the line in of the fused section of your RV power center.
 
A= 120 volt AC
B= 120 volt AC converter to 12 volt DC to use when connected to utility power
C= 12 volt DC fuse panel for RV type loads, water heater control, lighting

Hope that helps clarify what’s in your box
IMG_5490.jpeg
 
GaRay said:
A= 120 volt AC
B= 120 volt AC converter to 12 volt DC to use when connected to utility power
C= 12 volt DC fuse panel for RV type loads, water heater control, lighting

Hope that helps clarify what’s in your box
View attachment 227280
Click to expand...
Yes, my goodness, thank you. That’s incredible. Gives me a starting point of know what the heck is going on in the current situation.

Now to trace what wires are where & then will be able to have a full vision of the current set up. Then it should be fairly straightforward plugging into this system w transfer switch.
Thank you again
 
Here's another option to keep your 12v stuff and feed your aircon. I pulled the entire converter out and replaced it with a breaker panel and let the Ionic 2Kw LF AIO do all the 12v and 120v stuff. Plenty of horsepower to start up a table saw if I need it too. I'll be installing the 3Kw version in my dad's camper so it can feed his aircon as well with a pair of 304Ah 12v batteries.

Some things to consider when you start speccing parts:

48v -> 12v converters have about 0 surge capability, if you have anything on 12v that has a compressor or motor you've got to size for the startup current when you buy the unit. You may only need 50w of 12v power 85% of the time, but you have to buy a unit that provides that other 15% at any time.

Most the 3Kw AIO's also have a hard time with surge, so that aircon is going to need every watt it can provide. A low frequency inverter handles the surge better but has a higher standby consumption.

48v batteries are physically large. Plan out where you're going to stick it. You can DIY yourself 4 12v batteries in the 280/304Ah capacity for the same physical space as a single 48v 100ah rack mount battery.

48v is going to be easier to run wire around with, higher voltage means lower amperage and that means thinner wire.

Just some thoughts to throw at you.
 
Rednecktek said:
Here's another option to keep your 12v stuff and feed your aircon. I pulled the entire converter out and replaced it with a breaker panel and let the Ionic 2Kw LF AIO do all the 12v and 120v stuff. Plenty of horsepower to start up a table saw if I need it too. I'll be installing the 3Kw version in my dad's camper so it can feed his aircon as well with a pair of 304Ah 12v batteries.

Some things to consider when you start speccing parts:

48v -> 12v converters have about 0 surge capability, if you have anything on 12v that has a compressor or motor you've got to size for the startup current when you buy the unit. You may only need 50w of 12v power 85% of the time, but you have to buy a unit that provides that other 15% at any time.

Most the 3Kw AIO's also have a hard time with surge, so that aircon is going to need every watt it can provide. A low frequency inverter handles the surge better but has a higher standby consumption.

48v batteries are physically large. Plan out where you're going to stick it. You can DIY yourself 4 12v batteries in the 280/304Ah capacity for the same physical space as a single 48v 100ah rack mount battery.

48v is going to be easier to run wire around with, higher voltage means lower amperage and that means thinner wire.

Just some thoughts to throw at you.
Click to expand...
Appreciate the insight.

So you’d suggest steering clear of the 48v route & just keeping everything (batteries / inverter charger) 12v? The all in one route by eg4 enticed me bc it was one & one plug & play essentially. Then would add their extra charging piece that I could utilize with the shore power / generator hook up.

Genuinely am unsure still, haven’t made a purchase yet. Not sure the route to go / what’s best for us & cost too.
Thank you again.
 
That Ionic I linked is also an all in one with the AC in, out, charging, and solar controller. Being as that you already have an existing 12v system in there, sticking with 12v has its advantages.
 
Rednecktek said:
That Ionic I linked is also an all in one with the AC in, out, charging, and solar controller. Being as that you already have an existing 12v system in there, sticking with 12v has its advantages.
Click to expand...

Can I have the 48v inverter charger, with 100ah 48v battery (eg4) with a step from 48v to 12v before connecting to the transfer switch / current 12v system? Or I guess more so if I purchase all in one 48v system, a step down from 48 to 12 before the circuit breaker?
 
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ShuttleBus said:
Can I have the 48v inverter charger, with 100ah 48v battery (eg4) with a step from 48v to 12v before connecting to the transfer switch / current 12v system? Or I guess more so if I purchase all in one 48v system, a step down from 48 to 12 before the circuit breaker?
Click to expand...
You can do that, just be aware that step down converters don't do surge for squat so when you size it make sure it can handle any startup loads on motors or compressors or the like.

You'll have a circuit breaker feeding the step down from the batteries, then the step down will plug into your existing fuse block.
 
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NOVA 6500S | 6500 Watt (6.5kW) 48 Volt Off-grid Solar Inverter

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Model: RS-H6548S On sale $799
Rated Inverter Power: 6500VA/6500W 6.5Kw
PARALLEL CAPABILITY: Yes, 6 units

INPUT

  • Voltage: 120 VAC
  • Selectable Voltage Range: 90-140 VAC (For Computers)
  • 80-140 VAC (For Home Appliances)
  • Frequency Range: 50 Hz/60 Hz (Auto Sensing)


OUTPUT

  • AC Voltage Regulation (Batt. Mode): 120VAC ± 5%
  • Surge Power: 13000VA Ausom serge capacity 13k
  • Efficiency (Peak): 91%
  • Transfer Time: 15 ms (For Personal Computers), 20 ms (For Home Appliances)
  • Waveform: Pure Sine Wave
  • No Load Power Consumption: <70W
  • Optional DC Voltage: 12 VDC ± 5%, 100W 12v 100w out put for maintaining house / vehicle Batt
  • Dual Outputs: Yes


BATTERY

  • Battery Voltage: 48 VDC 48v LiPO comms / lead acid
  • Floating Charge Voltage: 54 VDC
  • Overcharge Protection: 66 VDC


SOLAR CHARGER & AC CHARGER

  • Solar Charger Type: MPPT
  • Maximum PV Array Power: 8000W (4000W x 2) 2 MPPT inputs tow an enclosed trailer cover with solar
  • MPPT Operating Voltage Range: 90 ~ 230 VDC Low voltage MPPTs good for smaller arrays
  • Maximum PV Array Open Circuit Voltage: 250 VDC
  • Maximum Solar Charge Current: 120A
  • Maximum AC Charge Current: 120A
  • Maximum Charge Current: 120A


PHYSICAL

  • Dimension(D X W X H): 5.8 x 17.0 x 21.8 in
  • Net Weight: 44.09 lb A little stout at 45lbs.
  • Communication Interface: USB/RS232/RS485/Wi-Fi/Dry-contact Wi-Fi


OPERATING ENVIRONMENT

  • Humidity: 5% to 95% Relative Humidity(Non-condensing)
  • Operating Temperature: -10°C to 50°C
  • Storage Temperature: -15°C to 60°C


STANDARD

  • Compliance Safety: UL
 
Rednecktek said:
You can do that, just be aware that step down converters don't do surge for squat so when you size it make sure it can handle any startup loads on motors or compressors or the like.

You'll have a circuit breaker feeding the step down from the batteries, then the step down will plug into your existing fuse block.
Click to expand...

Understood, thank you.

Have done quite a bit of digging & looking thinking I’ll be going with either a 12v or 24v system after all.

With your ionic, (which looks to be Canadian based, can I get in states?) do you have a shore / 30amp plugged into? Then assuming solar & battery cords?

Is this similar to the victron 12v aio? The pricing is about the same.
 
ShuttleBus said:
Understood, thank you.

Have done quite a bit of digging & looking thinking I’ll be going with either a 12v or 24v system after all.
Click to expand...
If you've got an existing 12v system, it's easiest to stay with a 12v system if you can do it.
ShuttleBus said:
With your ionic, (which looks to be Canadian based, can I get in states?) do you have a shore / 30amp plugged into? Then assuming solar & battery cords?
Click to expand...
Yes, I got mine to the states just fine, it was about $960 USD all-in and delivered for the 2kw model with the remote control panel. The shore panel connects right to the AC In terminals on the end and when I plug it in at the house or the generator it works just fine. It's only 35a of AC charging unfortunately which hurts when I've got 560Ah of battery and no sun in winter.
ShuttleBus said:
Is this similar to the victron 12v aio? The pricing is about the same.
Click to expand...
The Victron is ZOMGHUGE in comparison, has only 1600w, costs $1700USD everywhere I look and only comes in 230v EU power which won't work for you. Their 2Kw/24v unit is a little over $1800USD, so about double the price. But hey, it's blue!
 
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