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diy solar

Components needed?

Electrobob

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Jul 25, 2021
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Arizona
Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and new to solar so my question will be commensurate with my experience. I am building a 24 volt hand truck solar generator. I have a Growatt SPF 3000TL LVM, 4 HQST 100 watt panels which I will wire in series, 2 12v SOK 100ah 1200wh batteries which will be wired in series, and 30 ft of 10awg wire so the generator can remain inside while it charges from the batteries. I am in AZ and I don’t want the batteries out in the 105 degree heat while getting a charge. I will connect the batteries in series directly to the growatt and the pv panels also directly to the Growatt. I have installed a male and female electrical cables to the input and output on the Growatt. I am ready to put it all together but I have these questions:

* Do I need any other components? All the videos I watch show systems with many more components, even when using an all in one system like the Growatt. I see systems running the batteries to a bus and then from the bus to the Growatt. What’s the point of that? How is that any different from connecting directly? I see systems with an Anderson disconnect between the batteries and Growatt and also between the pv panels and Growatt. Is that needed? I thought the batteries had BMS in them and the Growatt has a circuit breaker. I understand about redundant safety, but I need to know if I have a complete system as it is, or is there more I need?

* I want to charge the batteries to full charge each before connecting them in series and I would like to charge each one separately using the Growatt. I want to plug the male ac input into the wall and connect one battery to the Growatt and charge it fully, then do the same with the other battery before connecting them together. Can I do this? Is there more I need to know or do or prepare before I do that? Is the another, better way of doing this?

thank you for putting up with me. Your help really is greatly appreciated!
 

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THE MOST IMPORTANT THING FOR YOU TO DO: Get that out of the living room before your significant-other sees it!!!! It could save your life!
 
* Do I need any other components? All the videos I watch show systems with many more components, even when using an all in one system like the Growatt.
I thought the batteries had BMS in them and the Growatt has a circuit breaker. I understand about redundant safety, but I need to know if I have a complete system as it is, or is there more I need?
OK... a bit more seriously.

The big question is whether there should be a fuse or breaker between the battery and the Growatt. A lot of folks on the forum say yes.... others say the BMS over-current protection is sufficient. I would put a 150A breaker of Fuse in. However, if it not at or close to the battery, it's usefulness is limited.

I see systems running the batteries to a bus and then from the bus to the Growatt. What’s the point of that? How is that any different from connecting directly?
If you have nothing else to connect, bus' are not needed.

I see systems with an Anderson disconnect between the batteries and Growatt and also between the pv panels and Growatt. Is that needed?
It is a mater of convenience. If you think you will be disconnecting things regularly, the Anderson Connectors make it easy. You have the system on a hand truck so I assume you will be moving it around.... It is probably a good idea to have some way to connect or disconnect the solar cable. However, I saw one system that had two hooks to wrap the PV cable up for storage. On the panel end of the solar cable it had MC4 connectors.

* I want to charge the batteries to full charge each before connecting them in series and I would like to charge each one separately using the Growatt. I want to plug the male ac input into the wall and connect one battery to the Growatt and charge it fully, then do the same with the other battery before connecting them together. Can I do this? Is there more I need to know or do or prepare before I do that? Is the another, better way of doing this?
Can the grow-watt be configured for either 12V or 24V? If not, this idea wont work. (You can't charge the 12V SOK from a 24V source)
 
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