Adding 100w suitcase with SAE

I have a Renogy system…2 100w panels on the roof of my van. I want to add a 100w suitcase for when I am parked in the shade. The suitcase has SAE connectors. Is there a way to add some kind of junction box, connect the rooftop panels and the suitcase panels to it and use a switch to choose which ones are charging the system? If not, how would you go about adding the suitcase to the charge controller(Renogy Rover 20amp)?
Thanks!

Sonnyboy said:

I have a Renogy system…2 100w panels on the roof of my van. I want to add a 100w suitcase for when I am parked in the shade. The suitcase has SAE connectors. Is there a way to add some kind of junction box, connect the rooftop panels and the suitcase panels to it and use a switch to choose which ones are charging the system? If not, how would you go about adding the suitcase to the charge controller(Renogy Rover 20amp)?
Thanks!

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I would add a dedicated charge controller to it. Since the 20amp renogy is so small.
I mean you probably only have 15a max with 3 different 100w panels but the panels are all different? I mean they aren't all 3 renogy? I don't like mixing panels,but you can always charge the same batteries with multiple groups of panels. If it's goes sae connectors then it's probably a hf suitcase? Those connectors are unreliable. Unfortunately.
They do make a adapter to mc4 but you could just replace them or the entire cord. I had some of 100w panels. I just replaced the wires completely.

73powerstroke said:

I would add a dedicated charge controller to it. Since the 20amp renogy is so small.
I mean you probably only have 15a max with 3 different 100w panels but the panels are all different? I mean they aren't all 3 renogy? I don't like mixing panels,but you can always charge the same batteries with multiple groups of panels. If it's goes sae connectors then it's probably a hf suitcase? Those connectors are unreliable. Unfortunately.
They do make a adapter to mc4 but you could just replace them or the entire cord. I had some of 100w panels. I just replaced the wires completely.

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Thanks…yes Harbor Freight suitcase panel, I see that about changing the connectors. Even so, how would you tie in the suitcase panel? Some have suggested a separate controller, but still, do you attach both controllers to the same battery?

Sonnyboy said:

Thanks…yes Harbor Freight suitcase panel, I see that about changing the connectors. Even so, how would you tie in the suitcase panel? Some have suggested a separate controller, but still, do you attach both controllers to the same battery?

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Sonnyboy said:

Thanks…yes Harbor Freight suitcase panel, I see that about changing the connectors. Even so, how would you tie in the suitcase panel? Some have suggested a separate controller, but still, do you attach both controllers to the same battery?

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You could parallel the suitcase with the renogy panels if they are close in specs. But I wouldn't because you'll be adding more amps in parallel. I'm not sure what renogy c.c. you have or what it's rated at .
So that's why I suggested a separate c.c . To same battery in parallel with the renogy output

Sonnyboy said:

Thanks…yes Harbor Freight suitcase panel, I see that about changing the connectors. Even so, how would you tie in the suitcase panel? Some have suggested a separate controller, but still, do you attach both controllers to the same battery?

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Yes, no problem in attaching two controllers to the same battery. Just remember to connect the controller first and then panels second as most require connection in that order to determine battery voltage.

SAE connectors are totally unreliable, often high-resistance (loose) and oxidize / corrode quickly.

Not to mention that there is no real "standard" when it comes to polarity between different vendors. So if you are going to use them, you *MUST* verify the polarity.

Switching to other connectors like MC4, or even pre-built Anderson dc connectors would be recommended.

Anderson connectors are more durable than MC4 connectors and they are quiet easy to install on a cable once you get to know how. I solder mine.

If you know the specs of the panels on the roof and they closely match the harbor freight panel, and the roof panels are set up 2p, than you can add a 3rd 100 watt panel in parallel. This would be 3p and need to be fused.

If you are not tooled up for this, adding a second controller would be cheaper.

I‘m not a fan of SAE for the reasons mentioned, but no matter what cable you use you will need to verify polarity. I also see no harm in using an SAE connector At least temporarily until you figure what connector is right for you. I don’t like how they come premade so you need to put in a messy splice.

I’d not install MC4. MC4 may be a solar standard, but they take a bit to figure out how to disconnect and setup each time And may require a special tool. Also, I have portable panels and the MC4 connectors are thicker and would not fit as well on my panels when folded. Theres reasons portable panels don’t come with those.

My portable panels have Anderson pole connectors. After you get the hang of building them, they are not bad. Anderson seems more popular than SAE.