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Mattb4 said:
Not trying to pick on Victron users. But I am a simple person that wants my devices to not need internet connections
Click to expand...
Victron users luckily do not need an internet connection ... only a local Victron GX device.
The program runs on that. Not in a cloud server somewhere in the jungle or china or ....
Locally, without any need for an internet connection.


Mattb4 said:
I want a display and buttons on the inverter that allows me to change all necessary parameters
Click to expand...
Luckily you can use a BIG Victron GX Touch display ... where you can see everything, and manage and set everything up.
No need to hurt your eyes with a small low res monochrome display.

Victron_GX_display.png


Mattb4 said:
Victron seems to make nice equipment but it is not designed for the US shore based off grid market.
Click to expand...
That needs some explanations ...
 
The touch display looks handy. But at $230 added to the original inverter cost I would rather strain my eyes at an on device display.

I will explain. Most off gridders in the US live in rural areas and are not in the upper income levels. Simple, reliable and cheap is what they look for.
 
Goboatingnow said:
That invertor is not a LF invertor in the conventional sense. It’s a HF invertor

The bigger metal cases Phoenix invertors have what Victron describe as hybrid HF , ie both a HF switching stage and a LF drive stage.

Victron don’t make a conventional LF invertor to my knowledge.
Click to expand...
I wanted to mention this but figured that feature wise (weight and surge capacity), most would consider it an LF inverter. But you're right. But I don't see any use in calling it a hybrid. I think it helps people to label it a LF inverter.
 
Mattb4 said:
The touch display looks handy. But at $230 added to the original inverter cost I would rather strain my eyes at an on device display.

I will explain. Most off gridders in the US live in rural areas and are not in the upper income levels. Simple, reliable and cheap is what they look for.
Click to expand...
Yep. I think you're totally right about that display and its' cost. It has little appeal to me and probably many other value conscious people.

Fortunately it is only one of many options, most of which are free/much cheaper.
 
Mattb4 said:
No I do not want big idle losses. Rather a stupid notion that anyone would.

Perfect inverter would have display and ability to adjust parameters such as alarms and low voltage cut out. It would supply a 15 amp or 20 amp 120vAC or 240 VAC with standard plug sizes the needed amperage. When you plug in a consumer product with a matching plug and amp rating it will start and run it.
Click to expand...
Your perfect inverter isn't going to be someone else's version on perfect.

If a person only needs to run a 400 watt 120VAC load, it's going to have the same plug on it as your 1800 watt hair dryer.

Going with Victron, or other high quality, discreet component system, give more flexibility on designing your system. Need to support 4,000 watts or 300 watts AC, they've got you covered. Huge solar array or tiny (with matching charge controller).
Want to touch the controls bolted to the wall? Buy the fancy display. Want to do it on your phone, different components.

Want to build in stages? No prob upgrade each system as needed.

Want UL listed? Well I needed it, so I didn't by Victron equipment.
 
If you want a <$500 LF, remote monitoring inverter you could consider a used industrial UPS. However the idle losses won’t be low.

If you want <$500 with low idle losses then the Reliable HF would work. Just oversize to get some motor starting capacity. No remote monitoring capability.

I got both and use interchangeably depending on the application.
 

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775 said:
I have one of those APC units with a dead battery. It is a smaller unit and I'm not sure what voltage the battery pack is but I will do some research on this! I don't even know where to begin lol
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Post the complete model number and I will investigate. If you have the XL model with the rear battery connector you have struck gold.
 

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Will Prowse said:
I wanted to mention this but figured that feature wise (weight and surge capacity), most would consider it an LF inverter. But you're right. But I don't see any use in calling it a hybrid. I think it helps people to label it a LF inverter.
Click to expand...

HF-Toroid-Hybrid :D
It is a real Hybrid after all. It can sell to grid.
Also can make AC coupling too.

It can do almost everything Deye/Sol-Ark can do ... but with the high surge toroid core.
 
Delmar said:
Post the complete model number and I will investigate. If you have the XL model with the rear battery connector you have struck gold.
Click to expand...

You can still take any of them apart and extend the wires too, maybe not as easy as the connector of course, but I've done it on a number of the UPS's... Also taking it apart to extend the wires, gives you a chance to put tape over the beeper to quiet it down or de-soldier it in case there isn't an easy setting in firmware to turn off the beeper. You can disable the beeper in the APC UPS's though (via firmware) if you know how to...
 
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Delmar said:
If you want a <$500 LF, remote monitoring inverter you could consider a used industrial UPS. However the idle losses won’t be low.

If you want <$500 with low idle losses then the Reliable HF would work. Just oversize to get some motor starting capacity. No remote monitoring capability.

I got both and use interchangeably depending on the application.
Click to expand...

You can ALSO plug in an industrial UPS into your hybrid car and turn it into a 5 KW LF 240v/120v inverter generator (not the most compact thing in the world though)...

1663545077783.jpeg

1663545313441.jpeg
 
Samsonite801 said:
You can still take any of them apart and extend the wires too, maybe not as easy as the connector of course, but I've done it on a number of the UPS's... Also taking it apart to extend the wires, gives you a chance to put tape over the beeper to quiet it down or de-soldier it in case there isn't an easy setting in firmware to turn off the beeper. You can disable the beeper in the APC UPS's though (via firmware) if you know how to...
Click to expand...
The APC rear battery connector indicates an XL model that is rated for continuous operation with better caps, bigger heatsinks, more fets and more fans.

You can easily turn off the beeper by holding the ON/Test button when it beeps.
 
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775 said:
I was about to drop $500 on a Phoenix 48/1200 but put that on hold in search of something with a little bit more power for less than $500. I can't find anything on amazon or ebay that is a legit LF inverter for under $900!

How is Victron, who is normally the most expensive option, the least expensive option in this particular arena?!
Click to expand...

Checkout the the 48 volt 120 VAC 3000 watt Sigineer LF Inverter/Charger for $799. Inverter is more that $500, but less than $900 with a built in battery charger and automatic transfer switch.

www.sigineer.com

Inverter Charger 3000 Watts 48 Volt to 110V 120Vac Pure Sine Wave

Inverter charger 3000 watts, 48V to 110V 120V PSW output, 9KW surge of 20s. Low frequency power inverter with 20A battery charger. Efficient and Rugged.
www.sigineer.com www.sigineer.com
 
Delmar said:
The APC rear battery connector indicates an XL model that is rated for continuous operation with better caps, bigger heatsinks, more fets and more fans.
Click to expand...

Mine is an XLT model (which I guess must be a type of XL, just with a T hehe).. It is rated continuous because I've run it under heavy loads for hours and hours and it doesn't break a sweat. When I run it hard though, I turn the AC on in the car, and flip the back seats down so the fans can breathe good air front to back through the units (since they are rack mount). The fans on it may spin up a bit higher depending on how much load you're pulling through it.


Delmar said:
You can easily turn off the beeper by holding the ON/Test button when it beeps.
Click to expand...

I didn't know that trick hehe... I remember after day one, the beep bugged me enough, so I figured out where to turn it off in the settings way back when (I've had it in the car almost 3 years now), it was either the web UI or I might've turned it off via the SSH APC menu console, it has the network management card in it...
 
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