diy solar

diy solar

Anything dangerous??

Nicauna

Nicauna

New Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2020
Messages
33
Location
Cole Camp MO
I'm just dipping my toe in to this and wanna make sure I'm not gonna burn the house down! Complete novice here so go easy on me. (I'm a bit proud of the lug connections on the 6 gauge as my only previous experience was helping with a small car stereo back in HS!)

I've got this strapped to a dolly to wheel around and experiment with different loads. I was impressed it ran the hairdryer! Struggled with circular saw though...15882213243954906010084096049549.jpg
 
Looks great, nice job. Things to consider: Maybe move the bat fuse down to the battery post, add a separate fuse at the controller ouput, add a fuse to the pv input (maybe it's already present at the panels?), and cover the battery posts against short circuits.
 
Very nice!
I love a portable system.
You don't mention any solar panels - I assume you have some somewhere?
 
45North said:
Very nice!
I love a portable system.
You don't mention any solar panels - I assume you have some somewhere?
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Thank you for the kind words! Yessir, the 270 watt Renogy I set in the front yard and run wires out the window. (The wife LOVES it!)
 
Nicauna said:
Interesting. So when I scale everything up to run our tiny home what kind of inverter should we consider?
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Pure sine wave. If you have the ability to measure the surge amps that would be best. Otherwise, we might be able to make some guesses on specific appliances, but we'd need good specs to make good guesses.
 
MisterSandals said:
Pure sine wave. If you have the ability to measure the surge amps that would be best. Otherwise, we might be able to make some guesses on specific appliances, but we'd need good specs to make good guesses.
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Fantastic! Man, this forum is gonna be a life saver! Thank you kindly
 
looks fine, but IMO you could really reduce the wiring. It will probably help spin up that motor.

move the inverter to where the mt50 is and cut some of the board off if possible.

turn the battery around, find some way to protect its positive terminal.

you can probably cut your wiring runs in half. use them to double up some of the runs. definitely double up the wire between battery and inverter.

you may want to use a fused distribution block (I can't recommend that specific one or the seller, just a random link)

fuse the controller at ~double its rated output amps OR the maximum current the wire to it can handle. whichever is lesser.

fuse the inverter 50% higher than its maximum output OR the maximum current the wire to it can handle. whichever is lesser.
 
I totally agree, a pure sine wave inverter will give much better results.
Oversized for the load, get a 2500W or so HF inverter like the samlex or similar for easy mobility.
Or get a high quality LF inverter in the 1500W range, and you will be much happier with the performance.
 
A single battleborn is going to struggle over 1500W loads though...it’s only rated for 100AMPS continuous, so, 1500W will pull into the surge rating of the battery.
 
Supervstech said:
I totally agree, a pure sine wave inverter will give much better results.
Oversized for the load, get a 2500W or so HF inverter like the samlex or similar for easy mobility.
Or get a high quality LF inverter in the 1500W range, and you will be much happier with the performance.
Click to expand...

In case they aren'y acronyms your familiar with:

LF = 'low frequency'
HF = 'high frequency'

quick and dirty distinction is:
LF is big, heavy, solid, and can handle a hefty startup surgemuch better
HF is more space efficient, and usually power efficient, and cost efficient (not always), but not so great at handling surges.

More info here https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/k...rsion-methods-explained-high-frequency-vs-low
 
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