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Budget 12V 100AH LiFePO4, LiTime vs Power Queen?

AlpineJoe

Solar Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 13, 2022
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I am looking to shed some of my continuous house loads to a DIY solar inverter setup. I'll be running a Samlex 600W 24V input inverter from a pair of LiFePO4 budget 100AH 12V batteries and my two choices are LiTime and Power Queen. Both appear to be identical in capacity, current rating, and even size and weight. Price is within $20/each between the two. Is there a reason I should get LiTime (more expensive) over the Power Queen?
 
Both have good reputations on this forum. I’ve read more about power queen lately so I don’t know. I don’t think it matters much.
 
I am looking to shed some of my continuous house loads to a DIY solar inverter setup. I'll be running a Samlex 600W 24V input inverter from a pair of LiFePO4 budget 100AH 12V batteries and my two choices are LiTime and Power Queen. Both appear to be identical in capacity, current rating, and even size and weight. Price is within $20/each between the two. Is there a reason I should get LiTime (more expensive) over the Power Queen?

If you haven’t pulled the trigger yet, and want a better battery for not much more money, check out the Powerurus. $380, 100A BMS, Bluetooth/app to see cells and voltage and a poor man’s shunt to measure capacity, excellent customer service and better build quality. Will Prowse has a good review of it on YouTube and is on his recommended battery list (a coveted list to make it to!)

Buy direct from their website, no tax, free shipping and email them for a $20 coupon. I have their 200Ah model and love it.
 
Vatrer has a 12V 100A with Bluetooth, low temp cutoff and heating pads for $289 shipped (no tax) on their website. Crazy.
 
I am looking to shed some of my continuous house loads to a DIY solar inverter setup. I'll be running a Samlex 600W 24V input inverter from a pair of LiFePO4 budget 100AH 12V batteries and my two choices are LiTime and Power Queen. Both appear to be identical in capacity, current rating, and even size and weight. Price is within $20/each between the two. Is there a reason I should get LiTime (more expensive) over the Power Queen?

Do you need low temperature protection?

If so, your options will change.
 
Redodo has the least amount of problems, Power Queen been busted using grade B cells so has Ampere / Li Time. But not Redodo yet.
Wow, really? I was staying away from them as I confused them with TimeUSB that was using degraded higher capacity batteries. Glad you mentioned Redodo. They actually say 'grade A' in their advertising vs Power Queen that says 'automotive grade' which should be 'A'.

Right now, I feel like they are all the same at the 12V 100AH offering. They all come out of southern California, have the same outer dimensions, 100A BMS, no low temp cutoff. And Redodo and Power Queen have the same prices. Only LiTime is a little more.
Do you need low temperature protection?

If so, your options will change.
Not at my house which is where this will be located.

Thanks for the tip on PowerUS, but I'm trying to keep the costs down. Mainly want to make sure the cells are good, and the BMS can be a simple one.
 
They actually say 'grade A' in their advertising vs Power Queen that says 'automotive grade' which should be 'A'.

No one uses grade A cells in any of these batteries. Grade A is reserved for electric vehicles. Their cost isn’t realistic for off grid use. But for the genuine grade B cells, they’re very good and priced well for our needs! And some shady characters call these cells grade A.
 
Wow, really? I was staying away from them as I confused them with TimeUSB that was using degraded higher capacity batteries. Glad you mentioned Redodo. They actually say 'grade A' in their advertising vs Power Queen that says 'automotive grade' which should be 'A'.

Right now, I feel like they are all the same at the 12V 100AH offering. They all come out of southern California, have the same outer dimensions, 100A BMS, no low temp cutoff. And Redodo and Power Queen have the same prices. Only LiTime is a little more.

Not at my house which is where this will be located.

Thanks for the tip on PowerUS, but I'm trying to keep the costs down. Mainly want to make sure the cells are good, and the BMS can be a simple one.
Also, some of the cheapest lifepo4 batteries, once they’ve gained popularity thanks in large part to Will Prowse and his DIY solar forum here, have switched to using pouch cells.
 
If you are going to connect two 12 volt batteries in series for 24volts, make sure whatever you buy CAN be connected in series.

Edit-
Each has its own BMS and on those circuit boards are FETs and FETs have voltage ratings.

I suggest that if you are building a 24 volt system and haven't purchased anything yet, buy a 24 volt battery.
 
If you are going to connect two 12 volt batteries in series for 24volts, make sure whatever you buy CAN be connected in series.

Edit-
Each has its own BMS and on those circuit boards are FETs and FETs have voltage ratings.

I suggest that if you are building a 24 volt system and haven't purchased anything yet, buy a 24 volt battery.
The ones I am looking at are rated for up to a 4S configuration (4 in series).

Fwiw, all semiconductors have reverse breakdown voltage ratings, but I get what you mean.

Having the system designed with 12V batteries will simplify pulling batteries out for ham radio use (when needed) as 12V LiFePO4 voltages fall right into the radios specified input range.
 
The ones I am looking at are rated for up to a 4S configuration (4 in series).

Do read up on connecting 4x12v batteries in series for 48v. It’s not as simple as set it and forget it. You need to do manual rebalancing (of the batteries, not the cells inside that the BMS will help balance) or buy an external balancing device, but these add expense. It might end up being cheaper and less hassle to simply buy a 100Ah 48v battery, which contains the exact same energy as 4x100Ahx12v. For example, I think CHINS has a 48v 100ah for about $1300, which is the cheapest on the market.

Then if you need a 12v battery for ham radio use, buy a separate battery for that. I mean, it would be a big hassle to dismantle a balanced 4x12v bank, take a battery or two out, use it as 12v, then spend the time to try to get them back into balance with the rest of the pack to make it 48v again. Can be done, but a PITA.
 
100AH 12V batteries and my two choices are LiTime and Power Queen.

FWIW, I just got a LiTime from Amazon. It capacity checked to 106Ah, which was surprising. I opened it up because I wanted to put in another smart BMS I had on hand. I was very impressed with the build quality as compared to other ones I have ripped apart. Note, this pic has my BMS in it.
 

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FWIW, I just got a LiTime from Amazon. It capacity checked to 106Ah, which was surprising. I opened it up because I wanted to put in another smart BMS I had on hand. I was very impressed with the build quality as compared to other ones I have ripped apart. Note, this pic has my BMS in it.
I see a thermistor on your LiTime. Which one did you buy? Was it advertised to have low temp charge protection? And what is that round black disk on the left top of the pack?

Your BMS is interesting in that it is fully packaged. How is the heavy gauge negative leads attached?
 
Do read up on connecting 4x12v batteries in series for 48v. It’s not as simple as set it and forget it. You need to do manual rebalancing (of the batteries, not the cells inside that the BMS will help balance) or buy an external balancing device, but these add expense. It might end up being cheaper and less hassle to simply buy a 100Ah 48v battery, which contains the exact same energy as 4x100Ahx12v. For example, I think CHINS has a 48v 100ah for about $1300, which is the cheapest on the market.

Then if you need a 12v battery for ham radio use, buy a separate battery for that. I mean, it would be a big hassle to dismantle a balanced 4x12v bank, take a battery or two out, use it as 12v, then spend the time to try to get them back into balance with the rest of the pack to make it 48v again. Can be done, but a PITA.
I'm only plan to go to 24V in a 2S1P or a 2S2P configuration. Regarding taking it apart, I should have been more clear. If I end up with a bad battery, or upgrade to newer batteries or technology in the future, these batteries will always be useful, and much more useful as a 12V pack than a 24V. I have many many devices that will run off 12V, but going to 24V for inverter use to reduce wire gauge needed, minimize I2R losses, and when I add a MPPT or PWM charger, higher charging wattage capability as chargers are usually current limited vs wattage. Plus I have other networking equipment and PC's that only take 120VAC.

Currently using a couple of 6AH LiFePO4 batteries for my QRP rig, and a 50AH pouch pack running my 100W portable rig. Not quite enough capacity if I go 24 hours running off battery.
 
I see a thermistor on your LiTime. Which one did you buy? Was it advertised to have low temp charge protection? And what is that round black disk on the left top of the pack?

Daly BMS temp sensor. Yes I know some people hate them, but mine all work. Yes it does low temp cutoff (tested and verified). That is the Bluetooth dongle. The negative battery leads on the Daly are connected internal to the BMS.

And I also put in an external active balance since I had it apart (not in the pic), but these cells have been staying at .002v on their own. Also way better than other Amazon batteries I have gotten.
 
All three 'manufacturers' have the same web designer
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Yes and no. They are all using the Shopify platform. You’ve probably run across it many times if you started (or continued) non-Amazon online shopping as it picked during COVID. It’s extremely easy for a business to set up and these all look like the default checkout templates.

That being said, sure, could be the same web designer…

 
Wait. The checkout page has a place to add a tip?
That is beyond brazen. And they're probably already pocketing the tax.
LoL. I once had my business setup on Shopify and iirc, the add a tip feature either was on by default or was placed in a way that just made you want to push the little lever to turn it on so it wasn’t the only one off. lol. So it might be then being brazen but it might be a mistake.
 
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