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Yea I really like the feature set of the Multiplus but if you go with one Victron component you almost need to go all Victron and unfortunately that prices me out. This is why I've been trying to find another solution that utilizes AIO units.

If I'm following this correctly, when I'm running the genset or on shore power then the inverter is getting bypassed as the input AC source for the RV. I would then add a breaker and a run from either leg into the AC input of the inverter so the batteries charge from shore/gen?

My rig has a transfer switch in it already, is there any issue tying the L1/L2 outputs together and feeding them into the single 120V 6500EX input? I know that's essentially what a 30A-to-50A dogbone adapter does but I'm trying to think through any potential problems since it seems too simple.

My apologies if this topic has been beat to death but I'm starting to pick components for a solar system on my 50A RV. It has no 240V appliances so there are just two separate 120V buses in the distribution panel. I have a little confusion regarding which inverter to use. I know the Victron...

Yea I've had one of their BMS for a while and have been hounding them for further information, documentation, software, etc. Their list of excuses from the beginning for failing to deliver has been unreal. I've heard everything from "wife is having a baby" to "paint is drying on the BMS" to "our...

Has anyone gotten a link to the CAN bus software mentioned in the Muller BMS documentation? I've emailed them probably 30 times about this specifically and they either have flat out ignored my emails or sent me an excuse and no answer. I'm nearing my wits' end with Muller Industries, absolute...

This is the only clean solution I've been able to find. I pre-ordered one but it's to-be-tested so it remains to be seen if this is an adequate solution.

I have zero affiliation with this company but they've been teasing a BMS for the Valence U27-12XP batteries and it's available for presale on their website for those, like me, who are wanting a clean BMS setup for the these batteries...

You can create a custom charging profile. I can't speak for all of the models available but there's no BMS or temp protection in the 2.4kW 24V models I've looked at. You can always add an external BMS to your system that will do temp protection.

That was my thought as well. I understand that I'll lose some granularity in debugging a potential panel short but the cost savings might be worth considering it.

Just a thought, has anyone ever used branch connectors to reduce the size of a combiner box? Is this bad practice? For example, you've got 6 panels in parallel and you use branch connectors to make 3 parallel pairs that feed into a 3-string combiner box instead of a larger 6-string combiner box.

Take a deep breath my man. No panels have been mounted and no children have been harmed in the making of this post.

After talking with the folks over on the Safari Trek RV forums I think my best option is to screw them down and just make sure it's all sealed up really well. Thanks for the input guys!

I really like the idea of mounting panels with VHB tape on my RV roof, as opposed to screws/holes, but the previous owner covered the entire thing in some kind of sealer. Has anyone stripped something like that off in order to mount panels? What do I use to get it off?

Just FYI for anyone with Valence batteries, I emailed Muller Industries about the U-BMS and this was their response: "We will be preselling our MIUSA BMS-LV for Valence Batteries as of 12/1 with a ship date of mid January. $399 Pre Sale, $499 MSRP"

Adding screenshots for the batteries I bought just as a reference for future people coming across this thread.

I might use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Facon-Holding-Trailer-Automatic-Thermostat/dp/B01MT9EUG9/

I just got 6 of these for $415 each, the lowest cycle count of the lot is 21 and the highest is 39. Not a bad deal for roughly 828aH of Lithium!

I found an old video by Will that answers my question. For those that stumble across this thread in the future: "parallel as much as possible"

Thanks for the reply Craig. That was my understanding, at least for ideal conditions. For partial shade conditions, would there be any benefit to having a larger panel count in more series/parallel combinations vs smaller panel count either all in series or all in parallel?

I haven't been able to find a good answer for this, but cost aside, is there any benefit to using fewer larger and more powerful panels vs more smaller lesser powerful panels? This thought is stemming from the idea that using smaller 100/150W panels on top of my RV would be easier to place...