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Would love to know if there are any modbus capabilities for these. I know the Hoymiles DTUpro offers that for the micro inverters. I didn’t see anything in the user manual though so I’m assuming no

I’ve decided to sell my inverters since we may be moving soon. I purchased these new from eBay about a year ago, they’ve hardly had any use, only had the system up and running for testing for a few months - no real loads. I’d like to get $3300 + shipping for the pair. They will come with all...

I have the CAN between the BMS and inverters up and running but I haven't got my PC on the bus yet. Maybe this week sometime?

It’s up and running! I haven’t had a chance to really sit down and test anything yet but I have noticed a few random dips where Batrium will send out a false reading over their UDP protocol and it will show up in my MQTT logger as a zero reading. I’ll see if I can get a screenshot or something...

Think it may be a better idea to just buy the appropriate inverter when you get to where your going.

I'm unfamiliar with the Japanese grid but from what I do understand it depends on which island your on. I think some use American 120/240v 60Hz and others use the international 230v 50Hz. But all this begs the question...... why do you want one that works in both the US and Japan?

Emporia! And if you run Home Assistant / ESPHome you should flash it with the custom firmware that's available. Keep your data local and 3 - 4 sec refresh time!

"Prime Time" is the 230v market as it accounts for just about the entire planet. 120v/240v here in the US is just an afterthought for them.

If you’re measuring the voltage (output) under load and it falls substantially then it could be a faulty converter. (This should be measured as close as possible physically/electrically to the output) If it stays where it should be (12ish-volts) then measure at your loads. If your getting a...

use a 12v SLA battery in parallel with your DC/DC. The Victron is nice for that because you can set an appropriate float voltage. Let’s say your lights, LEDs, USBs, and other acronyms use like 10 amps max continuous (this is just a guess) so a 15ish amp converter will be fine? I’m just...

How about a smaller converter? Just use it to charge a small battery and let the battery handle the larger loads.

The appropriately sized Victron DC/DC converter. Oh and a small 9ah battery to put on the output so handle and surges and be nice to your converter. Also has the added benefit of making the system redundant.

Nobody cares if you’re poor. Just do it safely. You know what makes your even more poor? A fire.

Check all your connections down stream from your DC/DC converter. Make sure they are tight. *edit* and upstream too while you’re at it. Maybe the converter is being starved of current and your 12v is output is collapsing. Or maybe your converter is just bad? Voltage could fall flat on its face...

Buck converters only change DC voltage to a smaller DC voltage. If your loads are on an inverter they require 120v AC, so that wouldn’t work. But 7-10w is peanuts! If your concerned about that much loss you should add another panel or another string with a charge controller and never worry...

Ahhh gotcha. This looks like it’s something for the newer global Sunny Islands and not the older 6048 we have here in the states.

I haven’t heard of SMA having such a product… but then again their website isn’t the best for finding… well anything. I’m assuming your planning on using a SMA Data Manger or similar to control the logic?

I live in the US so it’s hard for me to comment but if I lived anywhere else on the planet I would 100% have a Victron system. They do everything right, good hardware, good software, good support, and have been doing it for years. I wouldn’t even think twice about it being low frequency. Other...

I have the REC precharge module. So far (~10 cycles) I haven‘t welded my contactor yet ?

Got it going at 19200 and 5 sec refresh and my messages are coming in every 7 - 10 seconds! Which is better, but still think I'm going to set up a can2mqtt converter when I get time.

I've been playing with it all morning and can't get mine to work on any other rate besides 1200 baud and a 10 second rate.... is there something else that needs changed? *Edit* Never mind. I’m an idiot. There’s a setting on the inverter.

I've thought about that and I may do both. yasdi exposes so many parameters and I dont think it advertises as many on canbus. I may just use the can messages for the fast refresh and just live with the slower refresh for the rest.

I'm having issues getting yasdi2mqtt to work at 19200. Works great at 1200 but not 9600 or 19200! It seems to never connect to the Sunny Island. I'm getting this over and over: Not all devices are online, starting device detection (async)... Something has always been a little screwy with my...

I’m actually not so sure anymore….. I’m just now starting to test my system and wanted to confirm polarity on my main bus bars before starting the inverters. Had the SI DC breakers OPEN, allowed my BMS to pre-charge and close the contactor, checked my voltage with my meter - read 52v proper...

Good to know! I have a REC pre charge module for my contactor but it’s pointless if the breaker is off. I guess the ark will be in the breaker and not welding my contactor shut but I’d still like to be nice to the caps and avoid any arks if possible.

Im assuming the DC caps are after the DC breaker?

UPS for mission critical stuff… Network equipment, home server, TV for the wife lol it’s nice to have for when you’re doing maintenance on the solar system. Would love to find a small static switch for a decent price for that stuff and use the grid as a source “B”. That way I could transfer the...

This may be of some help.....

The Hauwei used to be a better value but someone on YouTube make a few videos that got a bunch of views so now it’s gone up in price. But at least he has a good write up about it: https://www.beyondlogic.org/review-huawei-r4850g2-power-supply-53-5vdc-3kw/ The Huawei rectifier itself goes for...

The crux of all this is figuring out how to turn these on and communicate with them. It’s not as simple as flip a switch. For that reason I’d stick to either the Eltek Flatpak2 or Huawei r4850. Here are some threads from another board that may be of some use...

A lot of companies make these rectifier modules. Emerson, Eltek, Huawei, ect. They are used a lot in telecom sites like cell towers, cable fiber huts, 911/emergency services radio towers where their equipment is 48v and have an attached battery for backup. I’m not sure which manufacturer they...

You also don’t have to keep the shed at human comfort levels. The Sunny Islands are rated for their full capacity at 77 degrees. Way easier to keep a building at 77 instead of 70.

I’m guessing the price between a 6k and a 9k BTU mini split is pretty small. When in doubt, I would upsize. That way you get a little extra cooling buffer on the abnormally hot days and a little extra heating on the abnormally cold days. With the inverter A/Cs you’d be surprised how far they...

Yeah it’s definitely not for everyone… or even most people. But if you know a thing or 2 about micro controllers and canbus and want a fun project then the Huawei rectifier might be a good choice.