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you always bond your neutral and grnd at main panel (or first disconnect from grid incoming) You do not bond in subpanels... why did you decide to remove the main panel bonding?

I went to MTU in hougton, mi about 40yrs ago and as I recall there was not much sun at all hehe

I have the lv2424 and it definitely does NOT bond N/G on battery....even tho they said it does; probably varies by model and they have only a single answer they give out ;-) when it comes to bonding you have to deal with a variety of situations: 1)plugged in, on grid: LNG are all present and...

yea, Michael B Caro scammed a lot of people here for many thousands of dollars. Not just bad cells shipped either, but taking money and never delivering ANYTHING. avoid him like the plague.

absoletey positively this.... you must measure because calling the manufacturer does not always result in the right answer in todays "special" tech support world... you can also easily do this by using a receptacle tester such as...

if you are not worried about microvolt errors just snag an AD584 voltage ref from ebay and that way you can have some degree of confidence in your meter. as mentioned above eevblog is a great source of info on the technical side of electronics when it comes to meters; here is an old multimeter...

step one...move to another state ; NOT california ;-)

well you just have to be curious as to what those cells "really" are hehe... could be a grade "A" cases with a AAA battery inside hehe

well, deciding to move to 24v or even 48v is almost always the right thing to do..that said... step number one is absolutely positively the most important...calculate what your actual power demands will be!! You really need to start with knowing what you plan on powering (everything) and how...

well, I chat with my jdb bms modules with python via serial all the time...so...it does work that way. just to make sure you have everything setup right with your software use serial connections directly first. Just get some usb-serial devices and plug in which should "prove" to you that your...

I just use a raspberry pi and usb-serial adapters for monitoring... its simple and reliable. I have the pi using 4 usb-serial adapters chatting to everything without an issues (well, ok there is one major challenge, trying to buy ftdi serial adapters that are not counterfeit!). For the software...

this is the fundamental issue that caught me and others... he ASSURED everyone that the money was in separate accounts and safe until product shipped...he absolutely, positively lied about this. This is not an issue of "got taken by surprise in world events of shipping/supply issues"...nope.. He...

just did a quick look at the website and it does "seem" to indicate that you can use the DC output while charging: "(only the DC ports support pass-through charging)" However!!! You will notice that the manual shows a DC output of 9-12V/10A; it also shows that the DC input charging (solar port)...

when it comes to batteries of the same chemistry, when you put them in PARALLEL you will get the sum of their AH ratings NOT the sum of the output current. for example: 2Ah battery in parallel with a 1AH battery will provide 3AH of "power" as they will both be at the same voltage (they are in...

everyone that lives on an island knows that shipping is VERY expensive...and in many cases shippers will not deliver to that address. You knew you lived on an island so the right way to give your address would have been, "I live in spain, ON AN ISLAND". You kept a very important part of your...

simpliest way to think about it is that VA is only an issue when talking about AC power; in DC watts == VA as there is no complex component. This is why when testing your inverter you use "space heaters" that are just resistive loads and not something like a motor that has capacitive and...

wire size is driven by the maximum "current" that will pass thru; it really is that simple. a 2S configuration outputs the same current as a 1S (which is why you want to put panels in series to keep current low as current is the trouble maker). your short circuit current is 11amps per "string"...

well, 12v system with 1000W load.. so thats 1000W/12v Amps * probably 20% inefficiency of your inverter or (1000 / 12) * 1.2 = 100Amp load! Keep in mind that the "rating" of cables is to make sure the insulation does not melt, NOT that it is efficiently carrying the load. your 2awg cable...

wiring "rules" definitely vary by country. This is mostly about north american electrical house wiring to "some" code (do keep in mind that the electrical code has changed and so a 40yr old house is not wired the same as a 2yr old house). filterguy has given you lots of good information...

it is free to try so give it a whirl...

rather than using those common bluetooth-serial dongles I just use ftdi usb-serial port bridges and it connects just fine. I recall using their software and it worked; it is called pcmaster.

I use a isdt Q8 max to initial charge and balance my packs. Its simple and monitors each cell while charging so you can serial charge even before you put your bms on the pack. Once you have complete your serial charge you can rewire and then parallel charge as well. The firmware also allows you...

I think this is obviously the issue... He saw a business opportunity using the "forums" good will he had built up to create a business. It did not start out as a business but an actual "group buy" that he thought he could evolve. Once he decided to switch to "big business" mode he started to...

copper is copper when it comes to current carrying cross-sectional area. You can see from here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes A 0.25x1" (161sqmm) copper bar is a lot of copper ;-)

you slipped a decimal point there... the actual mortality rate for under 65yr olds is 0.09%; so your estimate of probably death is off by 20x! You need to keep in mind that mortality from such things, much like the regular flu, is HIGHLY dependent on your age and other underlying conditions...

I have several different APC units (all "smart" units), the largers one are almost always 24V units (so I use an 8S lifepo4 pack), smaller units are 12V so thats a 4S candidate. I do like the APC smart units so that a device can monitor via usb what is going on; I have a couple cyberpower units...

most devices that have large capacitor banks include "bleed resistors" to make sure that the caps do discharge when power is cut. This is important as the caps can be dangerous when charged and somebody opens up the box; a capacitor without a bleed resistor can hold a charge for a long time. A...

I also use APC units, however...what I do is rewire them so they can support an external battery pack (xt90 for 24v packs, anderson powerpole for 12v packs) and then I plug in a lifepo4's; easy to do and last a lot longer than the usual SLA batteries that need to be replaced ever couple of...

well, if it was for a boat I would recommend a victron...because anybody with a boat already has deep pockets hehe that said I have one of the giandel 24V units that that I have used for a very short time (not because there is anything wrong with it but because it is a backup in case my...

yep...loooong list and I am one of them... no refund after months of waiting and no msg from micheal of a potential refund date (order was paid for in march). I checked and could start legal proceedings based on what he advertised when taking orders (first round of legal time and outgoing...

in the ideal world you of course only want a single bonding...but then reality steps in ;-) the best option is to put in a transfer switch that will handle the hot, neutral, and ground. This means you will use your grid bonding when on grid power and when switching over the transfer switch...

the tricky part is always finding a "shade free" area for solar panels, some rigging, the tower, even a "little bird size" shadow seriously degrades the performance of a panel. No idea of the boat layout but make sure to take into account such things to get a better understanding how much solar...

put the battery in a warm room for a few hours and if it is just a temperature cut-off event, it will turn itself back on with no dmg ;-)

depending on the BMS they can have BOTH charge, and discharge fets; and they could just cut off the current flow in both directions; it is all dependent on your BMS. here is a copy of the specs for an eve 280ah battery and you can see it has temp limits for both charging and discharging. to...

what you want is a common device called a voltage data logger. How accurate and easy to use will drive the cost. You can easily make a DIY device with a simple raspberry pi or esp32, even easier is of course just hitting amazon for something like Lascar Electronics EL-USB-3 USB Voltage Data...