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Solar Pergolas, I can't speak for anyone else but they seem like the ideal solution for smaller lots and getting them high enough that the lawnmower and weedwacker aren't going to be throwing things at the panels. Plus it gets you a dual use area where you can still have a patio set in the shade...

I'd put some non conductive insulation under the batteries and put the heat mat on the sides of the batteries. There is a lot of motion as the RV goes down the road that would end up grinding the mat if below and possibly creating a path to ground with the batteries themselves.

Couple of thoughts Look for a coach chassis based unit, it will get you a much better platform to build on and weight will not be a factor. Newel, Prevost, Wanderlodge, etc. They are an order of magnitude better built than a typical fiberglass/rubber roof RV, especially in the longer lengths...

Just something to consider, you mention wanting to use the EG4 wall mount batteries, but I would strongly suggest the rack mount style instead. Its going to be much easier to handle, install and secure the rack mount style than to wrestle with an almost 300 lbs battery and trying to mount it...

For the first issue, it absolutely sounds like a failing card. For the Pi 4, I would go back to the latest stable version, just the eliminate the beta as a potential issue. Also be careful using SOC tiggers, my EG4's like to drift out of sync over time. I think if you are still having issues...

One of the cheap 12V LFP's would be a far better choice than a lead acid. LFP will charge up in a fraction of the time and be able to draw down much much lower than Lead in terms of Depth of Discharge (DoD).

Unless you have a dual alternator controller like the Balmar centerfielder, I think you need to separate the alternators. Run the smaller alternator for your engine battery bank and wire the 50DN to the House. I think you run the risk of burning out both units when the batteries are charged or...

RM-480-E with the 100ah pack.

I did just stack them, with a couple of strips of industrial velcro on top/bottom, then used a ratchet strap to make sure they are secure in the battery tray. This let me just slide the entire pack tray in/out as needed when finalizing the setup. It also means I can pull the entire setup out if...

Look at the temperature of the bottom battery, it's much lower than the rest of the stack, that is most likely why it's "behind" the curve. I see the same thing on my stack of 3, the one closest to the heat source accepts and discharges a little faster than the rest.

Upgraded my Ryobi riding mower (not zero turn) over the weekend with (2) Eco-worthy 48v 50ah metal cased batteries. https://www.eco-worthy.com/collections/24v-48v/products/48v-50ah-stackable-lifepo4-battery They were on sale for $368 each, with free shipping, so the deal was too good to pass...

Is there any app or software available for these batteries? They look like a great way to upgrade a Ryobi 48V mower but I can't find anything that would let you know exactly what the BMS is seeing. The specs also appear to be different based on where you look. Sometimes it says 200a peak, other...

Are you sure your RV is 240? That would be very rare in the US for an RV based on my experience. Almost all RV's are actually 120v 50a wired as (2) 120v legs from the 50a side. Even the larger coach units usually are 120v with the loads split across separate inverters to handle the load. As...

You need to break out the test software AND a good multimeter and start collecting some actual data. You should not need a charger on a timer if these are for emergency backup. The LFP batteries should keep the charge for months before needing to be topped up. What settings are you using on...

If you leave it plugged into the factory charger, it doesn't appear to float. The batteries appear to self discharge, and become unbalanced. Triggering the charge everyday seems to keep them in much better balance. This has been my experience with the factory charger and factory batteries.

On the Ryobi's I think it's a combination of discharging too low and not charging often enough. I put mine on the charger as soon as I'm done with it, and it's connected to a smart plug that power cycles the charger every morning to force the charger to restart a cycle and top them off everyday.

It's just reached the end of life, the 12.9 volts is just a surface charge that drops off rapidly when you take it off the charger. Could be the plates are sulfated, could be the electrolyte has gotten weak or contaminated, etc.

I think you've summarized it really well. The Li-BIM being time based, is very limiting, both when the pack is low and when it's at the top of the range. It's not reading the temp of the alternator so it's just turning on and off without considering the alternator at all. It will keep your...

You need to see if your generator has an alternator for charging, some of the smaller gensets do not have a generator output and they use the chassis batteries for starting. If it's got an alternator, then adding a dedicated starting battery for the genset, then an battery relay back to the...

These units are designed to be paired with Remote displays, and don't include any native PC support. The closest thing to PC support would be the Mag-Web interface, which connects to the remote signal lines and renders an HTML based view of the system. Mag-Web is for monitoring only, it's not...

Based on budget and time, I'd keep what you have until you have to replace it. You could throw those lead acids in a cheap marine cooler or, as has been mentioned, you can build your own out of foam. A cooler at a yard sale is probably cheaper than the sheet goods and it doesn't take much...

How about using 8020 Aluminum instead of strut? Loads of options for mounting, super strong and never rusts.

I use voltage, not SOC, because SOC drifts over time and you probably aren't going to charge up to 100% on the generator. I'd also suggest you put a delay on the Low Voltage turn on setting so it doesn't turn on when the system is under heavy load for a few minutes.

I believe that is an earth ground, so it's made to be connected to a grounding rod. I don't think you would use that ground in a mobile application

I don't have 24v batteries, but I am running (2) Magnum 2812's connected to (3) 12v LFP 400ah batteries. I use CC/CV with the temp sensor disconnected (very important), equalization turned off and the end charge terminated by end amps.

Noticed you have (3) 48v and (2) 24v assuming you have the 24v wired up look like 48v to the system. I would break up the bank and charge them independently to see what is actually charging up and what is not. My guess is that the (2) 24v have something going on that is preventing the bank...

We are going to need additional details to help on this one. How are you testing the current supplied from the alternator (the 26A reference)? What is the BMS rated for on the batteries and how is it configured for charging? Did you balance and test the cells before you tried to charge them...

If you connect up to the RJ45 port on the front of the battery, using the correct cable from SigSolar, you can use the BMS tools software (make sure you grab the right version for your batteries) and see whats going on. I'm going to guess that the batteries are not getting fully charged, since...

If you download Google Earth, not just use the browser version, you can enter your location and map the path of the sun across the property at various points in the year. It's a neat way to visualize the change in seasons without having a solar meter in hand at the location.

FWIW, Sense is no longer a small startup. Both Schinder and Landis+Gyr invested big money into the company. Sense does an excellent job with the visualizations and solid energy report for total used. It just flat SUCKS for individual load tracking, and the Sense leadership simply doesn't care...

The fewer batteries you connect, the less balancing issues you should have. I would not look to add multiple banks for (3), just buy larger amp hour batteries. ie, buy (2) 400 ah instead of (6) 100ah. Going with bigger ah packs really simplifies the number of connections, BMS limitations and...

The video and the strapping made me laugh, thanks for the fun.

If the BMS wasn't so limited, it would be ideal for the Ryobi battery mower conversions.

Did you put enough water in the microwave, when testing, to spin the wave up to 100% sustained? I think if the Microwave is tripping it almost every time, then it's inrush, especially if it's running the AC unit with no problems. The specs that were in the manual for the BMS (not the battery)...

i would plug up the battery to a PC and watch it with BMStools to see what alarms and alerts are showing. Without knowing the exact voltage levels, amp draw, etc it's hard to get a root cause. For reference, I have (3) EG4 12v units connected up to (2) Magnum MS2812's and I can load them up...