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Found a buyer! - Sold

Rich Solar sells them for $249.99 and that’s what I paid for it. So maybe you should tell them that they should reduce their price. I’m offering it for $200 which is 20% off their retail. So if it’s not something you’re interested in then don’t reply to the post.

I inadvertently purchased a 24v 200 Watt solar panel from Rich Solar. Never used and only taken out of the box partially to verify the specs on the back. Live in central Wisconsin but I’d be happy to bring it as far as Madison or Appleton on my next trip to those areas. $200. This is a $50...

I've had my two 206Ah batteries in storage for about 4 months at 47%. Once a month, I would charge somewhere up to 90% and then drain them down to a little under 50% using a 55 Amp load. Today, I charged them to 100% at 14.6V and just ran my RV lights off of them for about 30 minutes. The...

I was confused by your statements above. If in fact you pay the same regardless of how much you put back into the grid, then screw the grid. Get yourself more panels and mount them fixed. Sounds like you get plenty of sun and have plenty of space for panels. You will need more storage if anything.

Ordinarily I would say that it isn’t worth your time or money chasing the sun for the small benefit you would see with tracking. 20-30% isn’t really that much for the extra effort. However, your cost of 37¢ per kWh is substantial and you being able to buy back at 3.7¢ is such a difference that...

What does “still basically full” mean? Are you using a volt meter to determine your state of charge? I estimate that you used close to 60 Ah out your 200 Ah battery. That means you are at 66% SOC. Math is math and there is no magic to that Weize battery that keeps it basically full unless you...

You are going to want a way to terminate the power coming from the WFCO(a.k.a. a shutoff switch between the battery and the buss bar) You don’t want to be continuously sending power to that Chins when you are connected to shore power because it’s not beneficial for the battery to be sitting at a...

You are correct. I could not tell from the image you provided where the three negative wires were coming from or going to. You would be fine in this configuration as long as you don’t connect any other loads to the neg. bus bar. Also, make certain you don’t exceed the shunts amperage.

Only if you want to measure your DC Inverter load. if that is the case, make sure you set the shunt up as a DC energy meter and not a battery monitor. If your desire is to have it be an actual Battery monitor, then place it between your battery and bus bar.

Yes, having an inflationary economy by THIS administration to get a tax credit sure does sound effective. You are probably one of those people that have no problem paying higher interest rates on your mortgage and claiming that you get more in tax deductions so it’s a good thing. Paying out...

Correct!

The Watts don’t drop, only the voltage drops a little but that is to optimize the amp output. Volts * Amps = Watts. It doesn’t matter how the MPPT slices and dices the Voltage and Amp numbers as long as it’s giving you the maximum Amp output based off the current Watts that the panels are...

Once again, It is common for a MPPT controller to drop the MAX voltage of the panels to provide you with a Max Amperage. Just wanted to show you a picture to prove it. My battery is nearly full but yet the voltage drops and the amperage increases due to the time of the day and the charge...

I have three 200W rich solar panels wired in series. 24.3 Voc. 20.4 Vmp. Victron 100/50 MPPT. All panels read 24.3v open circuit volts. In the early morning hours, it is not uncommon for me to see 60-61volts. As soon as the panels start to see sun, the voltage always goes down. This is...

My vote is for two separate 40A or 60A controllers. Or if you can live with the inefficiency of only being able to ever get a max of 60A then go with one unit and wire it like you have above. If it works 90% of the time under 60 amps then why pay good money for a little extra output? You can...

Here is some simple math using Ohms law. If your panels can produce up to 37.6V at 5.32Amps that equals 200 watts. V x A = W. The MPPT will reduce the voltage to that of your battery but it will keep the Watts output the same. That means it will have to increase the Amp output. So even if...

To be honest, with 3-200 watt panels I exceed 30 Amps quite often. I have a feeling you would benefit with a 100Amp CC but if it’s a matter of money, 80 will get you there as well. But 60 amps is just way too small. Then again, I have no idea where you live so if it’s the Antarctic…?

My post was actually meant to be funny in regards to you burning up a third controller but I support you connecting all 10 of them in the configuration you provided. However, I don’t see where you added fuses to your diagram or if you are going to use a bus bar or simply a Y connector. Fuse...

Split up the panels and use two charge controllers. That way when you toast the next one, you will still be able to have some charge going to your batteries. Actually, you’ll probably have more than enough with half those panels considering your battery capacity.

I understand your plight. I am currently in the process of remaking all my connections. Not because they are necessarily bad but simply because of the fact that I know more now then I did when I made them and I have a hard time sleeping at night without questioning my perfection (or lack there...

@Will Prowse, maybe you could start taking breakers, inverters, controllers, shutoff switches as well as other components apart to see what’s really inside and how they stand up. There is a reason some components are UL listed and certified and others aren’t. We need to know what components we...

I’d like to hear a professional opinion about this breaker and what it is lacking or what someone likes about it.

Thought I would upload a few more pictures. All the heat was concentrated at the terminal connection indicating a short and arcing at that point, resulting in the point of failure. The breaker itself looks fine. Not sure how or why the power was terminated but I’m glad that it was. Luckily...

That statement is true with friends, family and lovers! ???

I truly believe it was user error (bad crimp/loose connection) and not equipment error. I’d stick with that brand of breaker personally. It did it’s job well. No need to use ferrule with a compression connection such as the ones on this breaker. Just monitor everything closely and periodically.

Haven’t bought anything yet. Temporarily hard wired to SCC with no shutoff. Still waiting for other opinions on here other than midnight solar. Has to be more than one option right? Seriously even thinking of going back to what I had. After all, it did terminate the connection and didn’t...

Just hearing that makes me want to stay away from it. Far away.

This is why I would like to see someone actually do a high quality test on them and look at voltage drift, surface area loss, material conductivity as well as different quality of crimpers and crimps that should be done. Many opinions out there but facts are facts. Trust the science right?

After removing all the ferrules and connecting everything together again using the bare wire, I couldn’t be happier! Previously, I used to get a pretty big drift between what the victron SCC stated as battery voltage and what the SmartShunt said the battery voltage was. Many times my battery...

I am not going to use these ferrules in the replacement breaker. I just made a new end with a short piece of the same wire I had laying around. Put on a new ferrule and tightened it down on the old breaker using one of the good connection points. I cranked it down as hard as I could using a...

Well, I certainly didn’t get this far into the build and all the wiring just to mess up the polarity so that certainly wasn’t the issue. I’ve been sitting in the same spot for more than 30 days and haven’t moved a thing. I do appreciate your response though and could see that being an issue...

One last look revealed something melted in the bottom of the connection. Not sure what it is.

Even the terminal screw is discolored from the heat.

Ferrules are pretty solid and not as thin walled as others I’ve seen. Takes a lot of force but I can see a slight rectangular look when looking straight down. I’m not saying I couldn’t have tightened them tighter and I’m more inclined to believe that they could have been tightened tighter but...