I've been away for a while so just looking at this now. I'd say all signs point to an hardware issue. I have ethernet in my shed so I've not tested the wifi any. I'd think that ethernet would be the most sure fire way to go if possible. You do have several options to fix the issue though that...
I think the battery model you have stores around 115 ah or 1.38 kwh of capacity . So if you discharged a single battery to 50% that would be .654 kwh of power per battery. So 16 batteries would give you 10.464 kwh at a 50% discharge. I'm able to heat my 500 ft shed with a space heater but it...
Such an impressive system. If you do ever decided to do battery back up definatly go with EG4's. I'm running with 46KW of backup power installed in the server racks. The way they are setup you can connect to them via an old PC or Laptop and monitor each cell whenever you like. Thankfully though...
I think it would work fine if you threw it in a box with some vents on it. Depending on how harsh your climate is. I've got my batteries and inverter in a shed for a few years now. Not exactly the same but works great.
You're most welcome I mainly went down this route to produce a temperary system, while I was waiting for my Cerbo to be replaced under waranty.So the image was based off of what was currently being used at the time. I'm not aware of any project currently that focuses on compatiblity of the newer...
I love how they give you 10 -25 year warranties that are basically no good after a year. If you try and use it, they'll have since re named the company. Thus absolving any right of warranty you had. Then produce identical products under a different company name.
The growatt wifi module can be fairly easy to install if you use what they call the brute force method. Instead of plugging it into my inverter to start with I just set it up on my computer by plugging it into a open USB slot. I then use a pin to get it into hotspot mode. Then connect to the hot...
I was looking through used parts on ebay - amazon the other day and come accross something simular to what Jazzmonger posted. I was thinking it would be interesting to test one of these out to see if it can somehow filter the sign wave. Just an FYI to anyone reading this I've found UPS will trip...
I know both Eaton and Leviton make single line 10-20 amp power conditioners. I've played with some huge industrial units before that can handle 240v 50-100 amp but they are super expensive. Probably would be better off in that case with a new inverter..... But if you just want to condition a few...
Around a year ago I came to the conclusion that a pure sine wave was a must for modern electronics. The way they are engineered is dependent on clean normal power.
I'm 100% sure now that the inverter with the shifting frequency is the culprit. If this doesn't happen on grid power then the components are compatible with a normal 60hz frequency. If you induce shifting frequency then it's understandable that strange things will happen.
Usually, you are just adjusting the low and high level of the dimmer. This will help with wiring issues and a few other minor annoyances. But if your power source frequency is dancing like a wet noodle nothing will keep it from operating abnormally. most modern LED lighting electronics depends...
That really sucks. It is fairly disturbing that an inverter that has been promoted so heavily would perform this terribly. I'm thinking you really only have one option left. Grab an inverter with a clean sign wave or find some LED's that don't flicker with an ugly wave.
I highly doubt grounding to be the issue. The most likely thing for this is just the inverters power characteristics. This is a really dumb question but did you verify the inverter is set to 60 hz vs 50 hz?
I've not heard of a CXSC100A3. There is however a Generac RXSC100A3 that is a 100 amp single phase transfer switch. This could be a big issue if you are wanting to transfer standard 240v split phase.
Just from my own experience of a few years mainly off grid. I noticed with my previous inverter that certain brands of LEDS would do a weird pulsate when dimming almost completely. I noticed a slight dim with heavy loads too. But strangely some brands didn't suffer from this at all. After...
The most easy way to connect with ethernet is by pluging the PI directly into a router.
This way it will be assigned a proper ip address. You can then view the PI and setup WIFI by
typing the correct Ip address your router assigned to it inside of a webrowser.
If you know your wifi settinga you could definitely set it up beforehand via phone hotspot. It's fairly easy to set it up via the remote console. Menu - Settings - Wi-Fi
Wow sounds like a nightmare. If you grab a few spare SD cards you can keep a backup in hopes to prevent this from happening again. Just try not to ever update your PI pretending to be a Cerbo :LOL: I'm wondering if somehow the pin for bluetooth got saved from your previous install or something...
I ended up having some JST connectors from when I was building alot of RC vehicals. One thing key to remember if you haven't already is to enable two way comunication inside the remote console. This way you can access each device remotely vs using bluetooth.
Sorry for the delay in the responce Messier11. The image file was based off the latest when I was working on it. 2.85 I belive. I flashed mine with the recomended ultility but I don't see any reason why Win 32 shouldbn't work. Love that utility app.
I'd think your good with any size of ram of...
I'm from Utah too :) If it was me I'd just grab a BLUETTI that way you have storage and an inverter. I think they sell 1 into 4 cigarete lighter converters on Amazon for around $13. I'd pick up some cheap used panels off KSL to charge your Bluetti.
You'd have to have it going into a Cerbo - or Rasberry Pi for a Lynx shunt because it doesn't have bluetooth that I'm aware of. The smart shunt does have bluetooth and is very easy to setup in the app and can form a network with the SCC