Search results

OK. Got it on order. Thanks!

OK - 30a Victron it is. I would like an illuminated on/off switch to stop it from working when I’m in city traffic since I read somewhere that it could be damaged by start and stop, low rpm charging. Would a 12v 2 amp switch be strong enough?

Ford parts looked up my Vin# and said it has a 150 amp alternator which goes through the computer, so that means it’s “smart”. So now the plot thickens - eggs come from chickens. Can I use a 30 amp Victron or a 40 amp Renogy B2B charger with this alternator?

I think that the best choice is a Victron Orion-TR Smart Non-Isolated 12|12-18, but I can’t find it anywhere, not even at the VE website. Was it discontinued? Is the Renogy 20a DC-DC charger my only alternative?

The batteries are lithium from Lossigy. I thought they had BWS protection against below freezing charging, but that’s wrong. I just have 2 each 100ah now, but may add another if I need the storage capacity to run the 12v freezer and the heater or a fan all night. IF I add another battery it...

So a battery isolator won’t work as well as a DC to DC charger? I don’t know if I have to limit the alternator output but if I do, can I just buy a smaller isolator? Or does it have to be big enough to take the maximum output of the alternator?

Hi. I’m wanting to expand my van’s 12v 200ah battery pack to 300ah by using a 3rd 100ah battery. The only reason to do this is to add a small TV with BlueRay player. Since my solar is limited to 400 watts I’m not sure if the bank can be recharged without plugging in my AC charger. The van is a...

Wow! Even assuming some of that may be marketing hype, so much of it rings true that it looks like a Panasonic microwave removes the need for induction cooking. Thanks!

OK - so the Magnetron is the component which generates the microwaves. Thanks! What about the “inverter series microwave”? What is that?

Sorry, but what is a Megatron? What is a “inverter series microwave”? Is it a 12v microwave which works without an inverter?

OK. Sounds like the Giandel 1200 is really good enough for all I want to do. Thanks.

I read a review which said the 1200w Giandel won’t go past 1220w, even for a 30 second surge - or something like that. Does that match your experience?

The induction cooker can wait, both it and air conditioning are frills. So I’m going to buy one more battery for 12v 3s with 150 amps max output. That means I will probably buy a 1200 or 1500 watt inverter - but even if I stay with two batteries for awhile, I will still buy one of those inverter...

I have two 12v 100ah lifepo4 batteries in parallel (50a max thru the BMS) which I want to use for an inverter. Most of the stuff in my van is 12v, but I’m thinking of AC to run some tool chargers (makita, hitachi, etc) and a 24” tv with a DVD player. My thought is to get a 1500 to 2000w inverter...

Panels are mounted on top with all 4 in a side by side pattern. I switched to a 12 volt 4P wiring feeding through a Victron SmartSolar 100/30 to 2 each Lossigy 12v 100ah LiFePO4 batteries in parallel. Now I’m planning on an inverter, but it looks like I can only use a 1000 watt true sign wave...

Bought the 100/30 Victron SmartSolar w the Long Range temp sensor. Combined with the Lossigy lifepo4 batteries I will have redundancy on freezing protection. Also got the AiLi shunt to get a good SOC on the batteries. Now all I need is a break from this cold & wet weather to get some things...

Power Queen , dammit. Come to think of it, they do all come from the same manufacturer. It’s called the CCP.

No experience, but I just bought two 12v 100ah Lossigy Lifepo4’s with low temp disconnect for $315 ea. Hope I get lucky on quality. I think I saw a review saying Lossigy, Wiese and Speed Queen come from the same manufacturer - will look for it.

Just bought two 12v 100ah Lossigy batteries for $315 each on Amazon, and the description unequivocally states that will not accept charging below 0 degrees Celsius. Now I have to return the 24v 100ah battery which is still boxed and the Victron SmartSolar 100/20 so that I can order a Victron...

I’m half-way through converting a 2016 Transit Connect cargo van. Started by buying battery, 24v Victron 100/20, and some gizmos due to an extreme number of videos. See how other van lifers have done their builds. Most diesel heaters are too powerful for small vans. Mine is 2KW and my van will...

My converter was 24/12 30 amp but then I moved it to 24/12 40 amp and now I’m thinking of changing again to 24/13.8 40 amp for $40. The changes are driving me crazy - but once started, it’s easy to slip into the crevasse. Why not get rid of the whole 24 volt system and stay with 12v? Thanks to...

But if I connect the solar charger directly to the + bus bar, doesn’t that risk getting a rush of 24v current back into the Victron 100/20 ?

OK. That would sure simplify things. So it would go battery + to 100a fuse to + bus bar to 25a fuse to 24-12v converter to 40a fuse to 12v fuse box. Battery- to shunt to - bus bar, etc ?

I want to use my 24v fuse box as the start of my 12 volt system. It goes 24v 40a fuse to 40a 24 to 12v converter to 12v fuse box. Is this OK? Not too late to send stuff back to Amazon, but I want to be sure to do this properly. I bought a Victron 100/20 solar charger, but need to be frugal for...

Now I’m worried again. I bought a Victron 100/20 for a single 24v 100ah battery with the intent to add a duplicate battery when I can afford it. Will I have to replace the Victron when I add the 2nd battery, even though I won’t add more panels?

The 17v 100w panels are wired in 2s/2p configuration giving me 12a and 34v maximum. I’m not 100% sure if the double pole breaker is the best possible, but since some people skip it entirely it seems OK. Its sole function is break both positive and negative solar wires at the same time.

Never mind. Bought a double pole circuit breaker so I can kill both lines of the solar panels with one switch.

I want to protect the Victron 100/20 SC from being burned out if or when the battery is disconnected, particularly when I leave the van for a period of time. I want to disconnect the battery but must disconnect the solar first, right? So a three pole switch which goes from both off to battery on...

Interesting. I was thinking on top, to partially protect the panels from twigs, angry birds, whatever. Also it would help prevent the headwind from getting under the panels. Under the plywood the 4 x 4 would help create a vacuum between the roof and the plywood - maybe? I’m on shaky ground here…

I’m doing something wrong - I convinced myself to buy most of the stuff I needed so that I could figure out how to shoehorn it all into the rapidly shrinking van interior. Now I’m waiting for the small 2 kw diesel heater and the mattress to arrive. Going without insulation because I’m worried...

It’s the Download button. ªUkŠ_»µ¦zµ¦žEwh ʇ—ÄŒœ|)áÂJð—r‡‹h .u #ƒ·ì«‘Ưâ|¿Aò¥=§GCÃ{¿òWa²/ø7 u]ÿ´áɸÔhˆ3µ=§'ôÕ+üyA«Ù4KùDá„Ð…åg+¤p5š€...

This: https://diysolarforum.com/resources/inverter-disconnect-switch-with-precharge.60/ comes through as Hieroglyphics on my phone.

I saw Will use a resistor to eliminate the spark when first feeding power into an inverter. I’m going to buy a 24v inverter - around 2000 watts or maybe 1500, depending on the best price I can find at the time. Looking at Amazon resistors, I’m seeing from 1 to 1 million ohms. Help?

I bought the Victron SmartSolar 100/20 and the Smart Sense. They should be delivered next Monday. Meanwhile, my battery should be delivered today. It’s nice to get past these hurdles and get started building the van interior. Thanks for all of the advice I’m getting from this forum. Reassurance...

I thought that the Victron mppt could use the Smart Sense to do the same thing. Was going to order the mppt 100/20 on Friday with the smart sense but should I get the smart shunt instead?