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Hey there! Curious about the configuration for smart load when you parallel / stack EG4 18k units. As in, if you have two units in parallel now you have two smart load ports. Do you only use one of the units for wiring or can each unit be configured separately? IE: unit A has X parameters and...

Fully offgrid setup, what I'd like to run: Two different solar arrays going into the two solar inputs. The generator output configured as the smart load which will hook into a water heater element. The line/grid input being a generator. Feel free to correct me on any of that, but the last one...

Awesome, thanks man.

Pretty much the title. I have a 120v Lincoln LE31MP and I use it a lot. I have a lot of batteries and a lot of panels, completely offgrid. I'm looking at a Sol-Ark or the eg4 version as an upgrade, but want to make sure I can run my welder with it. Thanks so much!

So I'm not nearly as up to speed as you all on this, but am curious. I really want an all-in-one-inverter for my offgrid world. And I really like the smart load concept that both the EG and SolARK will do (when 90% charge and keeping up with loads, divert the excess solar somewhere else). I got...

Hey there! I'm looking for some new all-in-one boxes and I thinking about the LV6548V. My array is 360v and 4080 watts but the LV6548V says its maximum PV wattage is 4kw. Does it matter that I'm 80 watts over? Will it hurt the unit or just only allow 4kw through? I'm fine losing the 80 watts.

Could you tell me what kind of 3 way valve is between your electric heater and the Navi? I'm familiar with manual three way valves but the way you described it sounds automatic. I checked out that Navi and it looks awesome. Edit: Looks like a 3 way diverter valve. I snapped a shot from my text...

We're putting an 80 gallon hybrid / heat pump tank in but I'd like to also have a propane instant heater that can kick on if needed. I've heard some instant heaters can and can't handle pre-warmed water. Does anyone have a recommendation on some manufacturers / models that would do a good job of...

Thanks. Unfortunately my underground cables are 4/0 (huge, like the size of my thumb) hence why I was trying to put lugs on the ends and hook them into posts. It's just really hard for me to understand how 10 gauge wire is capable of supporting up to ~500v dc but these huge terminal bolts are not.

My PV array is putting out ~240v and I need to connect the array's output to some large underground cables. Typically I'd use terminal posts to do that and put lug fittings on the solar output and lugs on the big cables, and connect them with the fasteners at the posts. The problem I have is...

We're standing up a new array and I'm building a simple box/cabinet out of 1/2" plywood to house some items that will be at the array. Right now I've got: AIMS disconnect. Two identical 6 panel strings going into that, each string going into one input side. Parallel cables, taking the string...

This is awesome, thanks so much for showing that. I'll be watching the Lithium Solar review here shortly.

I had a terrible time with the seller I linked, wouldn't recommend that at all!

So I'm on the verge of spending a pile of money on a well. I'm prepared for that, financially if not mentally, but the part that's screwing with me is how to keep the water from freezing. I've always been trying to pump to a cistern higher than the home pad and rely at least a bit on gravity...

Sure, but that's a separate discussion from the grounding / bonding drama.

Hate to be daft, but do I need to care about any of this in an entirely off grid system with zero grid involvement?

yep, here's the thread https://diysolarforum.com/threads/eg4-battery-charger-appreciation-promo.33274/

I bought sig solar batteries and then the sale showed up, a guy on here who works for them said to call for the deal which I did. No problemo and the guy on the phone at sig solar was nice and professional.

I think that's the same thing for me. While it's "simpler" to have solar, the vast majority of the time I'd be having a couple thousand dollars in panels just sitting there shading the dirt instead of powering something else, heating water, charging batteries, etc.

Isn't that because of the possibility of running low voltage? At 340v DC or 240v AC there's no reason to run big wires like that. Edit: yep, in the documentation it says pretty clearly to use the right size wires for the power you'll be providing.

Hey thanks, that does seem like a lot less power consumption, nearly 1/3 in fact. A few more bucks but probably worth it to me. Thank you!

Hey there, hoping someone smart could help me with this. We're having a well installed and I'd like to use one of those Grundfos pumps. We live in the middle of nowhere so a recommendation on a good seller would be cool, we're Nevada, USA. If I'm reading this right, for the 5SQ15-450 it's 2.5...

I wanted to offer a small counter point in some circumstances. I live in a somewhat cold place where we get a few sub zero (f) nights, nearly all of winter is lows below freezing, and we get ~20 feet of snow on average. When it's snowy you'll bring that snow inside on your boots and your...

Sorry to be another one of the DC breaker questions and I reviewed the documentation that I could find, but a really basic problem is jumping out at me here. Pictures below. So (when in the "on" position) the bottom left (++) is chained all the way to the bottom right (--). In fact when I ran a...

(edit: original post below but I had a terrible time with this seller, would *not* recommend!) I was on the hunt for one of these to match with my growatt that outputs 240v, and it looks like over the last few weeks everyone has sold out of them. SignatureSolar has a growatt unit but it has the...

Just talked to a guy over there, got all squared away, thanks so much!

Just to be clear, this is for people who bought batteries recently as well? I have a few batteries on order from you right now but I put the order in a few days before the discount on the chargers. I'd like to get that, I can just use my account and it will figure it out in the shopping cart...

I'm not sure, but I like their build quality and approach. I haven't seen a lot of independent views of their products from trusted sources so I know I'll be taking a bit of a risk. My own experience with wind is that it needs to be in a very high location, double the height of anything on the...

I had a 12v system before on a sailboat and I think in that place it wasn't so bad. Distances were relatively short and the system was small. It was also ~15 years ago when 24v was fancy, 36 edge case, and 48 was something that you'd occasionally hear about. But on a terrestrial system of any...

Oh that looks terrific, and it says it's for "48v battery systems" so I'm assuming it can handle charging voltages a bit above that.

Update: looking around a little bit more, I think I might just turn off the bank when I want the power out of it and use my clamp meter to verify. I'm eyeballing the T-class fuses to be able to interrupt the 48v 500AH lithium bank. Again, any thoughts appreciated.

On the rinky-dink side of things I like the missouri wind and solar generators because they sell aluminum blades and steel bodies. When/if it brakes I'll get some material to make little projects out of!

Hey thanks a lot, I re-read your post a few times and I think I get it. I was over complicating it a bit and your idea makes a lot more sense. Thanks again!

I'm buying components for my new install and I'd like to put a DC battery disconnect between the 48 volt battery bank and the inverter. I'll have a midnight solar My batteries are the gyll models, and my inverter is a growatt spf 5000 es. My two questions: Regarding voltage, I'm eyeballing the...

I haven't talked to them, I got my growatt from someone else as signaturesolar.com is out of stock at the moment. But I did get my gyll batteries from them, so hopefully no funny business there.