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Any idea on if this applies to "mobile" battery systems, such as DIY "solar generator". An example would be the "system on a handtruck" type project that Will has demonstrated before.

So the cost of dual-hose (single hose sucks for efficiency) units and the absolute trash level marketing for window units (calling units with electric heat "heat pump" is just....) has me thinking about my original "stupid plan A".

Dumb question, could you make do with a vacuum and gauge meant for cars and just add fitting adaptors? Lots of auto places will rent them

I see this more for the floor and window units, the mini splits tend to claim lower limits.

Potential HOA and permit issues. Making it look nice 100% means cutting the lines and dealing with that. The siding/walls is the area are a complication. Honestly it doesn't really matter what my reasoning is. If there's something unsafe about a temporary install I'm all ears. It seems like a...

For these setups did you do a "normal" install (holes through the wall)?

Well, I don't think I'd need a flaring kit for initial install (I don't mind leaving the pipes long and coiling them) or de-install. Likely only for re-install (at which point I might be getting more mini splits for the new place anyways). Vacuum I could rent if needed for install, and decide...

Hmmmm, only heats down to 41F? Unfortunate and with the price maybe not the right buy for me, I fear it would not be able to run enough in winter.

Thanks for the feedback, seems like a "you could, but maybe you shouldn't" SO maybe plan B is saner. Hows the SEER/efficiency in comparison should I redo my "how worth it is it?" calculations

Wish they made more units for side sliding windows so I could not make to make adaptors lol. How is this in cold, how far down will it really heat? Oh, looks like it might be AC only

Sure, I figured I'd have to vacuum it down to deinstall. In my personal experience of the "just AC" style the floor standing units are not as effecient and cost more Any specific ones? when looking in the past it's been hard to tell if the unit was truly heatpump or JUST AC and if it had...

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Ok, so I've never installed a mini split before, closest experience is fixing the AC in a car (new condenser, vacuum down the system etc). These ~$500-700 mini split heatpump systems don't look all that hard to do, if the lines are not pre charged you need to have/rent a vacuum pump and may...

I'm thinking about how I see some people talk about their setup, and they might be over simplifying compared to what they do. Hypothetical system: 2 tanks in series; tank A is the 1st tank, gets cold water from the city or a well with chlorine system - tank B is the 2nd tank gets water from...

Thanks for the first hand experience! Personally if I was going to do a "solar thermal battery" I think figuring out proper safe design would be key. Based on some testing I've seen modern tanks can *hold* heat overnight (or over-day) with little issue, but that was more centered around "time...

Oh looks like it is auto ranging up to 240v, I was wrong. Darn good find! assuming that pinout is correct (since the document is marked as a draft). Looks like they number "bottom" to "top" and right to left: Viewed from the switch or psu side. Retaining clip at top. BROCADE'S numbers...

I think the "best case" for skipping DC-AC is anything close enough to the batteries that is already running DC. The farther away the more line losses (and/or the expense of cable) become an issue. Another thing to keep in mind is how shockingly bad a lot of common power supplies are, when you...

I can't shake the feeling that these "waste" solar. Do any of these feature the ability to "load shed" when not running to a SCC? Plus as 470GLE mentioned unless your lows are down there and/or your insulation is top notch, you might need to run these outside of sun hours anyways. I like the...

I've got a partial pinout. I have NOT tried putting the 3 outputs of a single unit in parallel (but since they are isolated it feels like it should work). I still don't have a way to enable output without the switch it powers, but I also have not opened up a unit. Whichever of us finds answers...

Another potential item if you are 120v only would be a EPS1500 (ICX6400-EPS1500). The put out 12v and 54v. I picked one up to test with the rackmount switches I have ,they run ~30bucks on ebay and should in theory do up to 20A of 54V which could make a nice budget DIY option for smaller gensets...

Ugh, I'll just add this to my list of buyers regret and things to worry about

[removed] Travel more, see the world, meet people unlike yourself and try talking to them. Edit: Unwatching this thread as it's a dumpster fire.

Sure, perhaps it would be more accurate to say city/county/state owned, and maybe certain aspects federal (cross state interconnects and what not)

[Removed because people got mad]

[Removed because people got mad]

That's very odd. For one series water heaters are very much "a thing" in buildings, even residential. Second, and more importantly, that doesn't actually make sense unless people are doing odd things. The 2nd water heater should still be connected to power/heat and set to not below the safe...

It's probably in one of the 300 page TOS you "signed" for like itunes or something :ROFLMAO:

I'd be willing to be everything I own that 99.9% of the users of this forum do not own or make enough to be the on winning side (as in have it be a better end result for you) of flat vs graduated taxes all other things being equal (same total tax income, etc). Besides, the real pro move is to...

How? In what possible way was this designed worse than the cheapest of AC-DC power supplies from aliexpress? This thread gives me 0 confidence in the design, QA, or quality of EG4 products. I've run all sorts of things from multiple generators over the years, some very very cheap. Anything...

If you don't want private companies realizing that people who are "net zero" are in fact a net negative on the grid that they begrudgingly maintain in their service area, then it's time to nationalize the infrastructure. I 1000% support changing (not keeping the same kwh charge and adding a...

For anything beyond token use of solar, panel voltage is above (often significantly) system voltage, and a Solar Charge Controller (of PWM or MPPT type) is used between the solar panel(s) and the system. Often solar panels are in series, which reduces the Amps and therefor wiresize and power...

I wouldn't call this a cheaper unit, it's a 2U rackmount with an external battery plug. Maybe I should connect to the nic and see if the web management has any tweaks

I actually have issues with my EG4 3000 and my Rackmount UPS sometimes not viewing the inverter output as clean enough.

Bit of background: Ok, so I have a few server rack UPS units that take 48v SLA (4x12v SLA) batteries. I've noticed that sometimes they refuse to switch to back to "AC" input from my AIO inverter or take and extended period of time to do so. So that has me a bit annoyed, and paranoid. They are...

I have to disagree. Having something that tries to draw 5kW just hard start is bad, full stop. Now the cheaper route (less menu changes or whatever) would be setting a short ramp that no one is going to really notice but keeps you from having issues with generators (sort of the main *reason for...