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Sorry for the late response, I have not look into it yet, still works good, not popping fuses, just the lights coming on. Been distracted with other project, I will eventually get back to it and find out.

Only thing I can think (providing I do have a discrepancy in voltage between lines at the pump circuit), (haven’t measured yet, plus I don’t know the ratings of the pump, can’t read the decal, it’s about 160 feet under ground), is the pressure switch contacts being dirty, I know they are...

Ok, here we go, hope everyone is doing well. has anyone experienced some of the lights in the Victron Lynx distributor coming on with a moderate load? It happens when the well pump comes on, I have a split-phase setup, the AC load is about 850 watts per line, nothing major, the lights that come...

Thank you

Thank you sir.

Update, the new UL listed one arrived, got it installed, see picture below, emailed them to get the password for the Victron config, they answered right away, they even offered support for future questions, it’s nice to have sellers out there that are this good, name of the company is: Solar...

Update, contacted the seller, they are taking the non UL listed back and they sent the other UL listed today.

Thank you, don’t feel comfortable sharing the name, as of yet, I want to be fair, and wait for the outcome of this situation first. If I was the vendor, I think it would be fair to get the opportunity to correct an issue that could have been created by an honest mistake before someone...

Yes it was an amazon vendor, they are Victron Authorized as per the Victron website, they have their own shop, they do commercial, residential and RV here in the US, I’m sure this is just a mishap, yes I ordered both at the same time, but after I placed the order he contacted me right away and...

Hope so as well, this is an authorized Victron supplier and installer as per the Victron website, it was not advertised as UL or non UL listed, sellers should make these corrections as I still see listings everywhere not specifying so.

Hope so too, Thanks.

I was not aware you could get a non UL listed model in the US, so technically speaking I did order UL listed ones if there are sold to be installed here in US, specially if they are going to be grid tied. I sent the vendor an email, but it was after hours, hopefully he gets back to me tomorrow...

HI, Hope all is well, I recently purchased two Multiplus II 48volt 3000 VA units to grid tie them and run them for a 240volt setup, when they came I noticed one is UL listed with longer bottom cover and stamped with a certification logo on front cover, and the other one lacks these two mentioned...

Update, ready for this? Finally got a replacement battery today, a different brand since they rebranded, and a bit smaller, (had to make a longer jumper), not a deal breaker, after putting everything together, another battery started acting up the same way as the previous one, this one going...

Update, after submitting all the videos and waiting over 36 hours for an answer they say they don’t know what’s wrong with the battery, and offered to refund or replace the battery, after I return this one, of course, I told them I just want a replacement and that I’ll be waiting for the return...

You bet I will, made the video showing everything, luckily as soon as I put a load on the inverter, the voltmeter showed the spike on the voltage and proved that the battery in question was going way too high on voltage, hopefully that’s enough for them to see everything is there. I’ll write to...

Update, so far I’m still waiting for Amperetime to make some decisions while they keep asking me questions about the issue, by the way, they reply one answer per a 24 hour period, been 3 days so far, now they are telling me that the battery voltage at 14.6 volts should be ok, I told them that...

You might be right, I’ll wait and see what amperetime says, meanwhile I have things running with the grid, don’t want to damage the refrigerators with all the intermittent shutting off and on every few minutes. Thanks for the fast replies and for patiently keeping up with a newbie here.

Well, think I found a clue to my issues, I was in the garage this morning and I heard a long beep coming from the inverter, guess what? It’s shutting off due to over voltage, (inverter specs are 60 volts over voltage protection), it suddenly comes back on, all this within a matter of one...

Ok, after charging all the batteries, they all have a combined charge of 53.9 volts, ( did not get quite to 14.6 on each battery). But, according to some online research, 13.3 to 13.4 per battery is an acceptable standard, so, I’m a bit over that, I will connect them back to the system but with...

The ones connected to both ends are the ones taking the longer, the two in between took very little

A question about battery equalization, after I get charging all 4 batteries individually, how should I make sure they are all equalized? Because I already have 3 of them charged, one took about 2 hours, the other two about 5 minutes each, but there is a discrepancy of about 0.08 volts between...

I guess since the Shunt just monitors it’ll show 100% over the set 52.8 and the Epever will continue to boost charge until the 56.00 volts, it’ll actually reconnect the boost feature at the 52.8 volt 100% SOC entered on the Shunt, but, leaving aside the Epever numbers, as long as I’m within the...

Epever termination charge, once it shows 100% it goes down to a lower amperage charging, a t it’s 56.29 volts check this pic. And the Shunt shows 100% at 53.52 volts I did take these pics at different times of the day however.

Here are the pictures, but this time with the Shunt in line, pic 2, on the negative cable, right now it’s disconnected since I’m charging the batteries individually, as you can see on the first pic, I also have the main switch after the inline fuse on the positive side in the off position, to...

I really appreciate all your inputs, being new at this, and hoping all the equipment is working as it should, (including batteries), it’s giving me a few more grey hair, that’s for sure. Let me know what other kind of wiring picture you suggest I should post, other than the ones I posted...

Only reason I did it that way is because the Shunt manual states to set the 48 volt charged voltage parameter to 52.8. See pic 1 The Epever I did it multiplying the battery manual specified float and boost charge multiplied x 4 as is supposed to be done, see pic 2, what you say makes perfect...

Nothing is bypassed, all is after the Shunt.

Only thing I can think about the dimmed LED’s with all lamp switches off is that these inverters are known for sending half voltage through all a/c legs, and since the lamps are grounded through their original circuit, they were getting some voltage through the neutral wire. Bad thing is I do...

Ok, it’s been a few interesting days, did an audit to the 2 fridges and the freezer chest for about 90 hours, all 3 came down to a combine use of 124 watt hours, also had a brand new mini split a/c that when is on and cooling it draws 6 amps, but when it has cooled the room down it goes down to...

I hope so, but according to my particular situation, (the draining of the batteries), it suggests the Epever looks more realistic, but then again, it’s too soon to tell.

Ok, got the Victron Shuntt installed last night, and after setting the battery settings (see the first picture, hope I did it right), it showed 100% right after It came on, 2nd picture, the Epever showed 99% see 3rd picture. Had the inverter off for 2 days, after seeing I had a full charge...

Im waiting a couple days for the kWh meters I installed on all fridges, I haven’t done much math about the rest but I have been using around 13 amps every once in a while, I have the feeling I need more solar panels, I’m going to reduce some of the loads, didn’t realize I had an inverter mini...

Got the float back where it was. Doing a fridge audit with a few plug in wh meters I have. How do I know is going into boost charge and from boost into float mode? I assume boost is when it’s just charging and it hasn’t reached near a full charge, and float means trickle charge once the...