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Thats what I suggested in your other thread and I feel it simplifies things, until you need big AC power. Nothing you've noted so far needs big AC power. I have a 12v adapter charger for my laptop and assume they are available for others, but not sure about yours. I looked into 12v chargers for...

I think thats charging voltage.

I've had plenty of big blocks that start fine in the cold. Gas engines are easy. AGM batteries and lower viscosity oil in the winter often helped.

How far and what connections between the alternator and the house battery? I assume the 2x AGM's will accept more than 10A.

Why bother tying in the house battery for starting? Is there a reason the chassis battery cannot handle starting duties by itself?

Spend a little time and make as much as possible run off DC. All the AC loads you list should be compatible with some sort of DC charger. My last 'camping trip' was 45 days and the only thing I used AC for was charging my electric razor. Wifey sometimes uses a hair dryer but only when we...

No Experience, but it's a pretty small inverter and has high idle consumption. $425 could probably be spent better. I'm working on a hybrid of that at the moment....

How integrated is the GZ stuff into the camper? Maybe you can sell it and just scratch build a better system that is all designed to work together....

Did you upgrade your alternator? I think they are 150A stock. You can install a ignition triggered solonoid, an isolator, a combiner, or a DC-DC charger to accomplish your goals. It will likely take alot longer than you think to recharge those batteries. Have you tested them or checked the...

Something to consider.... You list AC and resistive heating as 2 large energy uses. Your snow-birding, living in a home with wheels. You want to spend time boondocking (not in a campground). Getting rid of AC is huge. Using propane for heating is huge. Ambient temps are the biggest hurdle to...

Thats a good Idea, I already have a clamp ampmeter, I'm going to do that. Fortunately, most people on this board have a spare 100aH+ on their trailer that could power the tow vehicle for a while if necessary.

Without seriously upgrading the wiring between your alternator and house battery you won't get much out of it. As mentioned above, 10 amps is pretty optimistic. You probably have an additional 50 amps of charge capacity from your alternator during regular driving, but would need a DC-DC charger...

That is alot. How long do you think that will run the AC?

I dont think an additional switch would be necessary, the charger would only be active while plugged into shore power. Easy enough to unplug the charger if necesary.

Oh. Well. Thats ridiculous. I'm not sure how you people survive. If I see highs above 80 I turn north/up and drive as fast as I can. My climate control is the coast and/or mountains.

Whoa... thats huge. Thats what the girls say.... RE: shading AC and coach.... Have you been able to tell a difference with the solar panels for rooftop shade? Also, have you been able to tell a difference after shading the rooftop AC? There is obviously some tradeoff between shade and...

Any pictures of your install? I'm starting with 400w and already planning to add another 400w in the future so I like the 'modular' aspect of unistruts.

My first van build had very similar loads and did great on 100ah for Spring/Summer/Fall. The only time I felt I needed more was when it was below freezing and I was running my heater, the solar input was low as was my battery capacity. More insulation would have gone a long ways also. Like...

I have a curved roof as well, I was planning on putting aluminum uni-struts on the roof and use or fabricate mounting feet to get the panels where I want them. I'm just here to see if any better ideas show up....

On that diagram the existing converter would connect in parallel with the Inverter. For lithium (or anything else) you could replace your existing FLA converter/charger with a inverter/charger in it's place.

I'm not clear what your asking.... do you mean the converter in the All-in-One, while connected to shore power? Strictly speaking, an inverter turns DC into AC, but an inverter/charger can go AC-DC or DC-AC. If thats what your referring to, you need to determine the converter amp output, the...

If/when you add a generator, just give it it's own 12v battery. It can be a tiny lawnmower battery, however much the generator requiers to start. I think some even have the battery on board. As long as you leave it as a dedicated starting battery the generator will charge it, no need to tie into...

Rigid panels are better than flexible, and last longer. If you use a different solar controller you can run all 4 panels in series via 10ga wire. With the Renogy combined controller you have to run them all in parallel and then a larger wire gauge after the branch connection. If it's a short...

Ah, I see. My Generator is hard wired into the coach. Re: Renogy MPPT... I believe that is correct, I think it also will charge via dc-dc and Solar at the same time if sufficient voltage is present. What is your solar panel layout? That controller requires all panels to be wired in parallel...

I originally bought (and still haven't returned) the Renogy MPPT dc-dc charger but opted to use separate units because of the 25v limit on solar input. My Diagram is still as pictured with multiple transfer switches. My generator is quite old and does not have a shore power input. Multiple...

Would a gas powered mill suffice, then Batt/Solar/Inverter for the 110/220 needs?

Copied you but ordered a 7x24 pad as it will fit my 200aH battery better than the 12". I already received the temp controller you settled on. Cheers!

I just had a bit of a revelation... If I mount my DC-DC controller up front, next to the alternator I can get away with using the existing 4ga wire 20' to the house battery/battery buss. That will actually save a bit of work and significant expense in buying larger wiring. It also puts it even...

Thanks. I'm basically 'future proofing' w/ the solar fuse and the breaker is mainly for service and winterization. I haven't labeled or decided on wire gauge yet as I'm unsure of the distances. I will update when I have a better idea of layout. Would fuses or circuit breakers be more appropriate?

Added multiple Transfer Switches and rerouted some 110. Added Switch to Sense wire of DC-DC Charger.

Well, after a bit of research it seems that I likely have a 145A alternator installed, assuming it hasn't been replaced with something else. There are several accounts of people getting over 50A to their house batteries, so I think I will go ahead and use the DC-DC charger, and also repurpose...

Thanks, good idea. I happen to have a 'Boost' switch (factory installed) on the dash that triggers a relay to combine the house and chassis batteries. I will be disabling that function, and both the switch and the relay could very easily be repurposed as you suggest. It does have a large case...

Copy. I still need to inspect the existing ATS's and verify their function, but I think that's the simplest solution. A little embarrassed it wasn't obvious to me yesterday, I was trying to over-complicate it. K.I.S.S. I'm still learning about the ATS. Cheers!

Yeah, lb3 mentioned the same thing. I was working out in my head if there would be a sequence or leg to tie the charger into that would prevent it running off the inverter.

Thanks for doing the legwork, I just ordered a Bayite thermal controller.