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After spending just over a year researching the countless threads here, hundreds of hours of YouTube, and some crafty “0% for 24 months” credit card offers ?I finally got my system installed in our 2005 Fleetwood Southwind 32VS. This was just phase 1; MP2 24V, (2) 12|24-15 DC/DC Chargers, an...

18650 battery store. Good people. I got my cells from them as well. https://www.18650batterystore.com/products/jk-b2a24s20p-bms

Thanks! It’s a Blue Sea 2203. The (-) to the Lynx distributor as well as chassis ground will tie into it outside the box.

Finally got my battery built! Everything works!! I’ll have it connected inside my motorhome tomorrow and begin programming the MPII! Thanks to all those who have shared their insights, I definitely leaned heavily on the wealth of knowledge here! 8S Eve LF280K JK BMS 500A 3/4” plywood 1/4”...

For that one I used Google Drawings. It’s free, and fairly decent, however, I much prefer FoxIt PDF Editor, but it’s not free.

Slide and generator come off the chassis battery. It’s a motorhome, not a trailer. But thanks for trying to help!

Thanks for pointing that out! I’m using the new EVE LF280Ks which have the dual 6mm terminals. I just feel better running parallels from there and then single conductor after the fuse out of concern for both physical space on the terminal vs. lug size as well as strain placed on the weld. We...

Hey folks, I think I've got my design dialed in but could really use some critique from the veterans here before I order everything. Basic overview for this first phase: 24V 280Ah LiFEPO4 with 200A JK BMS Multiplus II 24/3000/50-70 (2) Parallel Orion Tr-Smart 12/24/15 Orion 24/12/70 for DC...

I’d like to come out of the Lynx Distributor with one +&- to tie in the DC/DC chargers and the MPPT, since they’re going to be in different areas of my motorhome. I’m not opposed to making my own bus bar, but that surface of the breaker isn’t flat, there’s a bit of plastic between the terminal...

Is anybody aware of a bus bar designed to mount to the Bussmann / BlueSea 185/285 series breakers? There’s one shown in a Victron drawing but I can’t source it anywhere. DIY?

Plan revised for 24V and posted in Mobile. Please delete.

Thanks for the heads up. These were ordered from 18650BatteryStore.Com on 5/922. I certainly understand the “unopened” concern, however, since I’m in Alaska, this is almost certainly going to be a local buyer, who can come to my house and look at them for themselves.

Looks like my project isn’t going to happen any time soon. I’d rather sell these to someone who can use them now than let them sit in my garage. Brand new, unopened. $1,000. I am in Alaska…

Absolutely beautiful, well done!!

Looks awesome man, nice work. I’ve got the same cells sitting in my garage waiting for me to make a battery or two out of them. Awesome view…I live about 15 minutes down the road ??

Alright, Im back!! Made it home from Wichita, and brought (8) EVE LF280Ks with me (and Covid...) I've been scratching my head quite a bit about how I wanted to layout panels on the roof, because I've got a lot of obstacles. Found a post in a Facebook group with an incredible (I think?) layout...

Not sure if this helps at all, but I believe I have a similar system as the OP. I have an Onan Single Phase 120V generator, and my motorhome has an energy management system. When running on generator, my ATS sends the (1) leg from the generator to both halves of my 120v distribution panel...

I bought (2) 4-packs from these guys. They had the best price I could find in stock, and they shipped them very quickly. I believe FedEx 2-day was the shipping method. (Shipped from Georgia to Wichita, Kansas)...

This is awesome! So clean and so much effort put into details. I’m very new to this world, and work like this is encouraging and inspiring! Well done!

I think the only way I can address shading is by putting as many panels up as possible. I’ll have them all tilt-capable, and with the super long summer days up here in Alaska, I’m hoping to be able to compensate for shading. Unfortunately I can’t remove the A/C units, and I can’t raise the...

I’m an idiot. No more responding for me until I’ve actually gotten out of bed and am awake.?‍♂️ Wouldn’t Isc, at -10f, be lower than Isc at 77f though?

The hashed areas are just a visual reference of the space allotted to each array. The diagonal hashed are for “A” as the horizontal hashed are for “B”. As far as the Isc and temperature, my understanding is that Isc is the current produced when the panel is not attached to anything. If the...

Alright, so I've cleaned up my roof layout, and determined that the maximum use of available space would result 2 separate arrays. I believe this means 2 charge controllers, which is fine. I'd like to use Victron for everything that I can, as I'd like to have (1) display that covers the entire...

I definitely hear you there. Certainly would be nice to drop down in wire, lug, and fuse sizes. The only reason I’m trying so hard to stay at 12V is because the MPii in 24/3000 isn’t available yet, and I’ve got a 50a RV. With my luck, I’ll just be turning on the main switch to test the new...

I’ve kind of “tunnel-visioned” myself on Renogy panels, or HQST (same exact panel for about $10 less each) for no real reason other than they’re very easy to get and seem to be pretty well reviewed. I think the smaller size of them as compared to a larger wattage panel will allow me to make the...

Alright, finally made it home from work! Got up on the roof of our motorhome to get measurements and lay it out. Looks like I should probably go with (2) separate arrays…one set of 200W panels, and one set of 100W panels. I need to fine tune my sketches and snap some chalk lines since the...

Parallel conductors are used *all the time*, especially in industrial electrical. Several different factors drive that decision, but often it’s just conductor availability, equipment size, ease of installation, etc.

I keep going back and forth between 12V & 24V. The few reasons I go back to 12V: I really like that the Victron MultiPlus II will do all the switching for me, since I have split phase 50A shore / generator power. However, If I go with 24V, that's not available, and I'd need to get a smart...

We’re not trying to live off grid, we just love to travel together. In Alaska, if you don’t get out and enjoy all the amazing places the roads can take you, you’re missing out! We’d like to expand our options and not be tied to campgrounds with hookups or have to run our generator all the time...

Alright, so while I am still about 700 miles from my motorhome, I had my wife count up lights and send me rating labels from everything she could find, and I googled the rest to come up with our Energy Audit (needs fine tuning and some actual usage data). I did not count the slide outs or...

Thanks man! Yes, I will definitely establish what our demand will be, and draw out what I’m thinking, but the more I think the more drawings I’ll have to make?. Thanks for your insight!

What if I used (1) 12V 280ah battery to replace my existing house batteries, dedicated solely to 12V stuff, and the second 12V 280ah battery with the Victron Multiplus II 12/3000 50A as a new, separate system solely for 120v stuff? Both separate systems would need to charge by shore power, the...

Thanks for that, @Koert. My biggest motivation for doing this, aside from it looking like an incredibly fun and rewarding project, is that we currently don’t have an inverter, so we either have to have hookups at an RV park ($20-50 a night) or run the generator ($3/hr). Then there’s our...

My understanding was that the DC to DC chargers would make this feasible. If I keep it sized the same as what my existing converter draws from the alternator, what problems would I have to deal with when using the OEM alternator?

Thanks for that @MisterSandals, I hadn’t thought of 24V, but I can definitely see how it would make the wiring, if nothing else, cheaper. I’ll need to look into the Multiplus 24/3000, but at first glance it doesn’t look like I lose any functionality when going with that rather than the...