Here are my thoughts…
At the Smartshunt the ground to frame is on the battery side - that is incorrect- it needs to be on the load side (otherwise anything that is using the frame ground will not be counted by the shunt).
Thanks for pointing that out!
Between the battery and the 250a fuse you have two #2 wires - instead of a 2/0 wire- was there a reason for that? That’s the only #2 wire in the system - just use 2/0 there.
I’m using the new EVE LF280Ks which have the dual 6mm terminals. I just feel better running parallels from there and then single conductor after the fuse out of concern for both physical space on the terminal vs. lug size as well as strain placed on the weld.
You have two Dc-Dc chargers. Because they are fairly expensive you may want to see if you really need the second one. (My guess is you won’t need it). Run the wires so if you decide you need it - it can be easily added (unless those wires are easy to run later). You will have a great amount of solar 2400w.
We live in Alaska, and although we have close to 21 hours of daylight during “camping season”, it’s often overcast and the sun is lower in the sky. Additionally, while I work a rotational 2 weeks on, 2 weeks off, my wife will still need to be able to work, so we want to maximize our charging (without needing to run the generator) so that we have the power necessary for her to do that. We will often go from one camp site to another, so whatever we can get in between will help. Thus, parallel chargers.
Also the power for those Dc-Dc chargers - between the switch and the 80a breaker - I would change that wire from #6 to #4. (Less voltage drop if both are running).
The entire DC/DC charging “group” will be housed inside of a roughly 24”X12”X10” compartment, so all lengths will be less than 24”. Additionally, I may be going with a 1/4”x1” copper bus bar between the switch and breaker, provided I like how it turns out. Either way, I’m certain I’ll have enough scrap #4 and lugs left over so if it’s wire, I’ll up it to #4. Thanks for the tip!
One additional item you may (or may not) want to consider. Put a Victron Smart Battery Protect (BP-65) between the Distributor and the Orion voltage reducer. This way if you are running out of power the 12v system shuts down before the bms cuts off. You could have it shutdown at _____ v (say 23.8v). Then when solar starts in the morning the bms is not in shutdown mode.
That’s an excellent idea that I hadn’t considered, and seems to be an inexpensive bit of insurance. Thank you!
Also is the Orion 24/12/70 voltage reducer large enough for the largest loads on your rig?
It’s the largest available, so I hope so!! ? I’ve retrofitted all lights to LED, but in all honesty the DC loads are probably what I’ve spent the least amount of time foguring out. I *believe* this was selected also because it meets or exceeds the rating of my existing converter.
Also, I would highly recommend a Cerbo and touch (or roll your own) to control the Multiplus and see all the data in the system. The data cables are not included so be sure and figure those out too.
Those will be installed, I just didn’t include them on the list because I am less concerned about dangerous errors when it comes to theee components, and wanted the keep the schematic as clean as possible. I was going to go with a raspberry pi but decided I’ve already put enough on my plate and the total project cost, including the Cerbo GX and Touch 70 is below what I was aiming for.
Also, when you are ready to order, run your plans by your Victron dealer. That way they can catch anything else that might be missed, plus if you run into any problems installing- you have already talked to them and know them.
I may catch some slack for this, but the only thing I’m planning on getting from a dealer is the MPII. The rest will come from Amazon. Living in Alaska, shipping costs are outrageous, so that combined with competitive pricing has me going this route. I may regret that decision, but hopefully I don’t end up in a predicament down the road.
Also, there is a a programming cable for the Multiplus it is a MK3 to USB Adapter. You will either need that cable, or have them program it for you or load the file through the Cerbo. (But that may have changed since I got my Multiplus).
I will ensure I’m setup for programming with my laptop.
Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to offer your advice!!
