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Positive female and negative male on MC4 cable are the "standards" as far as I understand it, so that would explain the labels you're seeing. But if you think about it, a female MC4 connector (which is labeled "positive") on your extension cord will connect to a "positive" male MC4 connector...

Both the xt60 and mc4 connectors are one-way, so it should not be possible to hook them up incorrectly in this context. (If you’re making your own cables it is possible to mix them up but if you bought everything premade i am fairly confident that you can just snap it all together and go.)...

That is not a super accurate way to measure total power. The hours remaining is calculated internally to the device based on how much power is being drawn, and that aspect alone can throw off your measurements by a huge margin. I think the best way to get a very accurate calculation of total...

How are you calculating hours? And are you taking the losses from the AC inverter into account? I returned mine, but never had an issue with getting the expected watts from it.

Thanks all! That is super helpful info. This is enough confirmation of the potential that I'm going to rip into the UPS this weekend. My "milk crate" is actually a box I built myself - I've got computer fans to put in for airflow if the holes do not keep things cool enough, but I'll pay extra...

I am building my own DIY Milk Crate, but I think this is more of a general DIY question. I hope this is the right place for it... I'm at the point in my build where I'm ready to buy and add an inverter to my Milk Crate build, and after some searching for an inverter it occurred to me that I...

Good to know! Send an update if you do end up running into issues at some point.

My 12v 100ah battery just arrived from Ampere Time and it has a bulge *out of the box*. I came here to see if this is normal or if it is something to be concerned about. What did you end up doing? I've already contacted Ampere Time but haven't heard back from them yet.

In reality, a 600w inverter will be plenty. I was sizing it up only to future proof a bit -- this project is for me to get some practical experience to what I've been learning, so I was thinking 1200w would be better for whatever is next. I could just as easily stick to 600w for now and then...

Ah! Ok, so that is good to know. I was obviously using the wrong number here. So in order to be nicer to my BMS (which I think is probably a good thing to do), is the right answer to size down the inverter? Based on 10v low voltage cutoff, it looks like an inverter 850w or less would keep me...

Maybe I misstated my question. I understand that fuses are there to protect the wires -- this is why I always described the current I thought I could expect, then the size of the wire, and then the size the fuse. Since the expected capacity of the circuit dictates the wire size, knowing what...

Good thinking! Maybe I'll size down the inverter for now to more closely match the battery's capability.

Like many others here, I've been putting together plans for a DIY "milk crate" build. I feel pretty comfortable with the choices I've made so far, though I'm happy to get input (I haven't purchased anything other than the battery yet so there is still time to edit): AmpereTime 100Ah Battery...

I found a great deal on the afrizona batteries -- how have they been for you?

Adding to what others mentioned about parallel/serial, the input on the 757 is hobbled (in my opinion). It only accepts a max of 30V and 10A of solar input. Most panels I've found will easily put you close to (or above) the 10A limit in a single panel, so putting them in parallel doesn't gain...

I have zero drain when I truly have *nothing on* - I had my 757 sitting next to my desk for almost 2 weeks and it held at 87% the entire time. But that doesn't just mean "nothing plugged in", what I mean is: Nothing was plugged in *and* the buttons that power the AC and DC outlets are turned...

I have done some real world testing with this. I have been camping off-grid for the past three nights using only the Powerhouse 757 to keep devices charged and run my CPAP over night. My power consumption each night is approximately 30% of the total battery capacity -- that is the total usage...

Fortunately, I did confirm that sending in more than 30v won't hurt anything. It will trip the over-voltage protection and it just won't take the power. I don't want to intentionally send too much power, but this does leave some room for experimentation without worrying about damaging the unit...

Wow -- that is surprising, and pretty disappointing. I REALLY like this unit, but wow - the solar input continues to be its weakness. I don't intend to use it in the way you described (leaving the solar input plugged in) so I'm OK with it, but this could be a deal breaker for someone with a...

I have two 100w solar with mc4 connectors -- I did all of the wiring to put them in parallel using mc4, and terminated them right before the 757 with an mc4 to xt60 adapter. It worked perfectly. My only gripe is how hard it will be to make use of the whole 300w input (30v 10a) without buying...

I'm new to this forum so first off please let me know if I've posted this to the wrong place! I just purchased an Anker 757 PowerHouse battery and it is working great for me. The biggest weakness is the solar input, which is limited to 30v and 10a. Anker (now) sells their own panels which...

I have this device and have been using it for a week now. This is my first pre-built portable battery system so I don't have much to compare it to, but so far it has been really solid. Everything feels really well thought-through and solid (the buttons don't feel cheap; even the plastic case...