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So I have an update on this. I have not yet implemented my crazy idea of using a small charger, and I am glad. I have my utility charge set to 0001, which charges from 12am-2am. However, in my observation I found that if it is still running on battery during that time it does not charge from...

The highest I can go is 51.2v. Under ideal conditions that leaves about 2 days with very little solar (very overcast). Some of my setting option limitations suck, but that is what I get for going cheap Chinese. I did just get a crazy idea thinking of your 3 amp charge. If I could get a 3 amp...

You must not have the inverter that I do. My minimum is 10 amps, and I have 3 inverters synced together so I end up with 30 amps. I am still trying to confirm the time setting, I was hoping for a minimum of 1 hour, but I think it might be 2 hours minimum. The only good thing is that 2 hours at...

Yes, it is while in bypass mode, but as far as I can tell my options are limited. I am trying to figure out the cryptic way to set up timed utility charging. From what I can tell I can set it as low as a 2 hour charge at 10 amps (which is about what is needed to cover the daily draw without any...

I am working on setting up limited grid charging, but it isn't strait forward as I would like, although I am sure I will get it figured out. It kind of sucks having to do that too. The whole point of going solar is to be able to be less off the grid, but yet there is still this tether.

I am actually working on figuring out grid charge settings for my situation. I just really wondered if that is what I need to do, but your response indicates that I do need to do that. I don't want to give up too much loss for grid charging, but also can't afford to have it go offline.

My experience with the Growatt SPF 3000TL LVM-ES is that it draws about 40-50 watts from the batteries even when it is in bypass mode. This adds up to about 1kwh a day drain. So what happens when there is lack of solar and the batteries get down to the low voltage cutoff? Does it shut completely...

I forgot to add that I did dig out a very large transformer for an inductance test, and it didn't have any effect. Now that I know the non-dimmable bulbs are better I probably won't try a capacitor test.

Upon further review I found that it is the dimmable lights that are strobing the worst. I just replaced a couple of the worst offenders with non-dimabble and they are much better.

The manual does not show an odd number for split phase, but I wasn't looking at the 3 phase options, which do show odd setups. So now that I looked at the 3 phase options shown I guess I can assume it will also work for split phase, and it gives me a good idea of how the cables need to be hooked...

I have a pair of Growatt SPF 3000TL LVM-ES inverters in split phase. Is it possible to add a third inverter to just one leg of the split phase? I just want to know if it will work at all, I already know I will have to do some creative wiring with breakers to make is safe. I know that one leg at...

I have noticed that it happens more under light load, and smooths out more when more power is being used, but still doesn't go away. I might experiment with inductance and capacitance loads. I have some relatively large old power transformers that I could try to hook up, but I don't know about...

I thought it might have been just one of the inverters, but now know it is both. My LED bulbs in my house are flickering/strobing on the inverters. Any ideas? I can kind of deal with it for now, but it is annoying, and could potentially cause an epileptic to have seizures (none here but just...

I have a pair of Growatt SPF 3000TL LVM-ES inverers, and when they are running several of my led lights in the house flicker like a strobe light. Is this normal?

I emailed Watts247 and they sent me this link which contains the same information as the post referenced above. https://watts247.com/docs/voltage-calibration-procedures-for-3000tl-models-24p-48p-lvm-es-and-5000es/ I am very happy there is a way to calibrate the voltages if needed.

I asked here first before doing research thinking that someone would point me in the right direction quickly. Now that I had time to search and found an actual answer on how to calibrate the voltage, why didn't anyone point me to this...

I am not sure we are talking about the same thing. All of my batteries will be on the same circuit, and the only management will be the inverters with the battery mode set as user, so there will not be any individual battery bank voltage. My issue is with the inverter readings. I am worried that...

Yes, I know it is only about a 1% difference in voltage readings (which I do feel is NOT acceptable by today's standards), but with LifePo4 batteries there are voltage ranges that could mean a 20-30% difference in charge capacity, which could affect my settings, especially with 2 units synced...

I would just like to add that there is no integrated BMS. I have sets of batteries in series/parallel (with balancers). So for charging and discharging the Growatt units are in control. So I am concerned that being off that much will be an issue.

The battery voltage reading on the display is 0.5v low on one of them, meaning it thinks the batteries are 0.5v lower than they actually are. Voltage has been measured with a meter at both units to confirm one is reading low compared to what the voltage actually is.

I was looking at the specs listed on Watts247 and also the Growatt site (ginverter.com) and both showed 18 amps. I have recently received a pair of inverters and the manual does indeed list 22 amps as you say.

I have a new set of Growatt SPF 3000TL LVM-ES inverters in split phase that I am setting up, and one of them reads 0.5v low for the battery reading. I think this is too far off for proper battery management for LifePo4 batteries. Any suggestions? I bought the inverters from Watts247.

I am going to look at the positive point in all of this. It may cost me more, but now I will end up with 3 arrays (maybe 4?) instead of 2, which will help me better manage my shading issues. My setup will not be good for the high 500v input as stringing that many together just won't work well...

Point taken. I was just assuming that the ES would have the same capability as the 48P. I planned on 3200w worth of panels per unit which the 48P could handle by my math. With the ES I can only get 2400w worth of panels per unit without wasting usable power. With the 48P being discontinued I...

If the max current was 25a then I would agree. But with the lower 18a capability they went backwards. They didn't raise the voltage enough to compensate for the current loss. I am all for the lower current to be able to make longer runs, but they just didn't do it right.

Yes. my plan was 8 per rack with a total of 4 racks per inverter. With the 48P I was planning on 4 in series which would allow for the max power input of 3200w with ease. But with the ES and 8 in series I would fall just short of being able to utilize the available power input (my calculator...

My point is they made it about 30% less effective than the 48P, which is a big step backwards.

So let’s say I have 4 racks with 10 100w panels. The panels have an optimum operating voltage of 20.4 and an open voltage of 24.3 (I have seen 25v). 10 x 20.4v = 204v. 4000w / 204v = 19.6a, which is over 18a. 4000w / 18a = 222v, which is over the optimum operating range. 18a x 20.4v x 10 =...

My point is that the max input amps would make it almost impossible to ever acheive the max input watts. 18A is too small, 28A would be more accurate. I know how to calculate the values, I am very familiar with electronic calculations and use. The 48P version is rated for half the voltage and 50...

I am looking at the specs for the SPF 3000TL LVM-ES and it shows a max pv input of 18A. Doing the math to get the max 4000w pv input almost puts it at the max input voltage. Is that max current true, or is that a typo in their spec sheet?

Yeah, I know. I am still in the research process for everything. And that is one reason I needed to ask this question, so I can figure out the cost. I am going through all sorts of ideas and options. This would be a huge commitment, my best ROI calculation is 15 years, maybe more like 20.

I am very much considering DIY solar, and am looking for rail mounting solutions for both a shingled roof, and the side of the house (current siding is cheap particle board of some sort). As much as I don't myself care how it looks, I don't want something that will leave rust stains. I am trying...

Thank you for the reply. SBU mode sounds like what I am looking for. That will help me refine my search for an inverter. I did not know what to call it. Does anyone know offhand what other manufacturers have inverters with this feature? I will search, but sometimes asking can provide results...

Wow, I am surprised at no replies. That is okay, I did some reading and I think have figured out the best solution for me. I can use a relay to disconnect the AC input from the inverter to force it to run on battery when desired, and leave the inverter on AC priority. I can use relay logic with...

I am thinking about DIY solar and am in the process of doing research to figure out what I need. I want to have a backup system that also saves money. I do not plan on selling power back to the grid. I am looking at either a 6000w or 10000w inverter. But I want automatic control of the AC or...