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Hey! A fellow member of OhmConnect. I've posted here a couple times. I've made something around $900 a per year the last 3+ years running. They're really pushing for Texas members to join.

The easier way to get there is to use watts per mile. Google and a reddit post says that is about 280-350 watts per mile. It's going to be worse when it's cold or if you have a lead foot. Let's say worst case 350 watts per mile x 40 miles is more like 14 kWh. But then you also need to include...

It's not, but it's not so bad. This wouldn't do anything to help balance the cells.

I'd call it plenty good enough. FYI, if the bus bars are still connected, they are what's holding all the cell voltages identical.

That page does to a GoDaddy, buy this domain link. Seems like they might have shut down.

Oh, it was a different drop down under the grid codes section. I hope all the disabled ones are actually disabled, I ignored any that said disabled.

I'd love to know why, that way we can more easily adjust the parameters. I'm not sitting in front of the settings page right now, got a screenshot?

On a different subject, I had another one of these events, where the XW charges and discharges from the grid on a wild back and forth full blast in both directions. At 9:30, while I was in the garage to realize what was happening. I tried a few different things before I realized I should measure...

I agree they're better off redesignate with a new color. I was saying that I'm pretty sure that NEC says you're just supposed to use the correct color wire below certain gauge. I'm still not sure what the threshold is, maybe 6awg is the smallest that can be redesignated. On #12, you are...

Good catch. I don't know think you're supposed to redesignate wires that small. The minimum gauge is probably in the 8-10 awg region.

I did some hunting and the lathe main motor is 7.5 hp, the problem is that there's likely a second motor The machine is only labeled at 460vac, but there are a couple threads online of people converting everything over to 240 The lathe is a Leblond Makino Servo Shift Engine Lathe. There's...

I'd love to, but I haven't found one yet. That one listed has the same input and output voltage. The machine name plate is 440 3-phase and I have 240 split phase at the house. Bummer, I was hoping to find one that would. Interesting, I'd love to hear more. Well, an idiot's guide to more 😉...

I'm considering picking up a lather that is set up for 480 3-phase. I was hoping to find a VFD that would convert 240 split phase straight to 480 3-phase. I haven't found one yet (at least one that is reasonable) What would you recommend to get about 5kw at 480 3-phase? The options I can...

Right, my mistake. I think the other portion of my post is still valid. The XW doesn't have the capability to and never will bond ground to neutral.

I haven't tested it, probably the second option. It should function fine, but I suspect it is testing for the neutral connection.

Seem pretty cut and dry with these two lines: "Conext XW+ does not connect the neutral to ground." "In a system without a generator, or with a generator that does not provide a grounded neutral, you must make the connection from neutral to ground..." I don't need to pull the cover. I have AC...

I think you're creating unneeded problems for yourself. Your house already has the one neutral ground bond, in the main panel. Is your off grid panel ever connected to the grid pabel? For example, when the transfer relays inside the XW close? In that case, I believe you have both of your...

Probably in the ball park. What's the max wind speed in your area? Flat? Like 0° tilt? You'll probably want some tilt, it helps the rain move all the dust to one edge and avoids pooling.

Too much. It's been a while, so the cost fades, maybe $500+

When I built my solar tracker, I struggled with the math on the footer. After enough searching, I found some sites with calculators for sign footings (like highway signs). They were the most useful in calculating the footing. Here's my tracker thread, I think I included links to all the...

Based on what I'm reading, you're out of your league. At grid scale, it's all about cost/watt. There's no purpose is spending extra in a battery inverter with integrated grid pass through relays and not buying batteries or having a purpose for the grid pass through. Also, it's common practice...

And I just realized how glad I am that I assembled this test pack. Odd numbers of series cells have the positive and on opposite sides. Had I drawn or modeled this out more fully I would have seen it Ok, new plan each 16s string will be two 6s modules and one 4s module all in series. That will...

Yeah, the load/charge current will pass back and forth between the two. I don't think I need to be concerned about that; either system should be able to support the full load. My concern would be how LPF wants to have the cell voltage relax down after a full charge. As you know, the NMC pack...

From my research a while back, they didn't document any sensitivity adjustment in the arc fault detection. Now that you've got the unit, is that true, no sensitivity adjustment? I have no idea what the pin out might be. Two of the pins (power and gnd) are probably easy enough to figure out...

Seems like I can limit the voltage on each and parallel 14s NMC and 16s LFP Until you mean mentioned it, I forgot I had this thread discussing exactly that: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/paralleling-lifepo4-banks-with.79771/

Well, if I wasn't already sure, I'm now convinced, this is an addiction. I don't need it, but I picked up 48 used EVE cells from Ampster. Huge thanks, they were a great deal! Anyways, was going to put them together into 3 parallel 16s packs. However, I can't lift a 16s pack, so I was going to...

I'd recommend setting up some brains/automation behind the EVSE and running from the main system (probably still add more PV to it). For example, only allow it to charge when the house battery is above say 80% SOC. Just imagine how "well" a renter would take it if the house battery went flat...

Shh, this thread says non solar, you'll get us booted 😉 Those 48 cells were my big project but the mill came up and the price was right ($0) so I couldn't pass it up

I picked up a CNC knee mill that needs new motors and controls. The ways, ball screws, and bed look nearly untouched. The variable speed head is in the floor just out of shot. The thing was filthy and needed to be torn down to fit out of the building.

Then you'd have 10 gallons of hot, followed by a couple gallons of cold (one pipe full) then hot again. That would make for a rough shower. Maybe you could put a huge element in that little heater or change the full pipe so the cold mixes with the hot inside the tank to avoid the sudden temp...

I clicked for the promise of a 6000 volt inverter. Both should probably be watts, not volts. I'm big sad, I wanted to see a 6,000 volt inverter!

Do you really need that many spaces in the main? I don't see much for options. You could do a 200 amp main + a sub panel. As far as the meter seal, I wouldn't stress it. I cut mine and the PGE employee shrugged and said it saved him 3 seconds when doing the change over. Are your old and new...

I do have an EV and charge from solar. I agree with others that one larger system works better for me, vs a separate system dedicated to just the EV. This allows all your solar to be fully utilized. For example if you have two separate systems, when one battery is full, the PV in that system...

I'm fairly confident the XW manual calls for 4/0 and 250 fuse/breaker for a single inverter. So that's what I went with. On that mystery 5th relay, it may disconnect the internal transformer neutral connection when grid connected.

Glad I'm not the only one, I was just going to gloss over that part...