Beginner plan help

[HeathenNomad]

I did some searching and am still confused, as maybe my start is too simple. Right now, I have the following
2x200 Watt GrapeSolar panels hooked up in series IIRC with a 40 watt non-mppt controller
1 Renogy 50AH Lithium battery
1 Renogy 20 Amp AC-to-DC LFP Portable Battery Charger
1 MaxxAir Deluxe fan for our Sprinter
1 500W modified sine wave inverter for the 12V aux plug
I am trying to design a system where I can pull the controller, panels, and battery out for portable charging and put them back when I am done charging to power the fan. I also want to run the AC to DC charger via the inverter when I am driving, as a way to charge the battery until I can get a DC to DC charger hooked up in the van.
Right now, the controller connects to the panels with 10G wires that screw into the controller and the battery uses ?G lug cables to connect to the controller. My initial vision is to have a way to quickly disconnect the battery/charge controller from the fan for charging via a quick connect to the panels or to the CA to DC charger.
I am thinking I need the following at a min
Positive Battery -> Circuit Breaker/Fuse -> Controller -> Panels
Negative Battery -> Controller -> Panels
For the actual fan connections, I think I need this
Positive Battery -> Circuit Breaker/Fuse -> Fuse Panel Positive on the top
Negative Battery -> Fuse Panel Negative on the bottom
Fuse Panel to the fan from Neg/Pos terminals on the side
For this basic system, does one need bus bars and if so, how do you determine the size?, disconnect switches, shunts/monitors and can this all be added later when I expand?
Also, are there recommendations for quick connect/disconnect ideas for between the controller/panels and the controller/battery like Anderson Powerpoles, etc.?
TIA

 

[Geokilroy]

Sounds like a lot of effort and parts for a 50ah battery.

 

[HeathenNomad]

Sounds like a lot of effort and parts for a 50ah battery.

Sure, but it is not like I cannot expand/change the battery as funds dictate, right?

 

[mikefitz]

You will need to connect the inverter to the vehicle battery via a 50A fuse. The power will be too high for a 12v accessory socket. Your 20A charger will take about 300 watts, the inverter input current will be almost 30 amps. Use suitable cable and a fuse at the battery positive.
System diagram,

I suggest keeping the controller and battery inside the vehicle and use a cable with connector to the panels. The solar controller should be as near the battery as practical.
Due to the low currents if you use a fuse box with integrated negative set of connections a buss bar will not be needed.
A master fuse at the battery positive is recommended.

Use a quality fuse box and fuses, 20 amps is about the reliable limit so check for fuse over heating. You should have no issues with quality products.

With a PWM controller the panels must be connected in parallel, the maximum current from the charger is up to 20 amps with your panels.
Fixing panels on the van roof is a lot less of a hassle than deploying externally and solves the storage issue. ( also the panels wont 'walk off')

Mike

 

[HeathenNomad]

You will need to connect the inverter to the vehicle battery via a 50A fuse. The power will be too high for a 12v accessory socket. Your 20A charger will take about 300 watts, the inverter input current will be almost 30 amps. Use suitable cable and a fuse at the battery positive.
System diagram,
View attachment 107317
I suggest keeping the controller and battery inside the vehicle and use a cable with connector to the panels. The solar controller should be as near the battery as practical.
Due to the low currents if you use a fuse box with integrated negative set of connections a buss bar will not be needed.
A master fuse at the battery positive is recommended.

Use a quality fuse box and fuses, 20 amps is about the reliable limit so check for fuse over heating. You should have no issues with quality products.

With a PWM controller the panels must be connected in parallel, the maximum current from the charger is up to 20 amps with your panels.
Fixing panels on the van roof is a lot less of a hassle than deploying externally and solves the storage issue. ( also the panels wont 'walk off')

Mike

Sorry if I am dense. Are you saying I need to put a 50A fuse between the van battery and the inverter to plug in the battery charger or between the house battery and the fuse box? The picture above shows a 50A fuse between the house battery and the fuse block and a 25A fuse between the block and the what looks to be the AC to DC charger?

 

[mikefitz]

I dont have time to illustrate everything.

The diagram shows everything except the inverter, the inverter or shore power connects to the charger, top left in the diagram

You cannot plug the inverter into a vehicle accessory socket where the current is greater than about 10 amps.

so if you intend to use the AC charger with the inverter in this way you need to connect to the vehicle battery, the engine starter battery. This is what i said,
need to connect the inverter to the vehicle battery via a 50A fuse

Mike

 

[rjoycestar]

Hi guys,

I know this is probably not the right place to ask this question, but I'm not sure where else to post it.

Do you think there is anyone on this forum who might be willing to look at a proposal I got from a local Solar installing company in my town, and tell me whether it is a good offer or not? It seems high to me, but there are a lot of things that are included in the offer.

Thanks,
For any input I can get. I don't have time to learn how to do it on my own, but I thought you guys might at least know if something is a good deal or not, or if its a total rip off.

Sincerely,
Rob