Campervan Key Parts Plan Feedback Please

[UncleTodo]

Hey hey all, so after some planning, searching, and figuring I'm close to knowing what I want but would like to run it by some topic knowledgeable folk.
I am on a budget as I'm unemployed and working from limited savings, but am willing to spend where warranted.
Any input, criticisms, or suggestions are welcome, provided they are pertaining to the topic and not life choices...
For the battery, I decided to go with LiFePO4 using this 4 cell prismatic battery and this Daly BMS.
The same company also offers the cells with a BMS, but if the BMS above is fine, it's $50 cheaper.
I'm looking at a Renogy DCC50S to charge from alternator or solar, and after reading the thread on it here will be adding a relay to disconnect solar with the engine running, and disconnect starter battery with engine off to avoid a drained starter battery.
The solar panel may not be added until later pending on how finances are looking when I get to that point, but am looking at a 175w or 200w panel from Renogy.
For an inverter I'm looking at this 1500W PSW mainly having a wired remote on/off over BT.
I'd also like to be able to switch this from house or starter battery, mainly so if the engine is running it will run off alternator and not house battery.
Plus then various other power rails, distribution blocks, fuses, breakers, and 12v/USB outlets.
That's all I got for now, plus I've already droned on long enough for one post...
Thanks for looking!

 

[UncleTodo]

Well, nobody's saying no, so I'm guessing it's a fairly sound start.

 

[Zil]

No.

 

[Zil]

You need some special stuff to charge a LiFePo battery from a standard automotive alternator. There is a danger releasing the smoke from the alternator. I guess that Renogy will work if wired properly. You can't run much with a 1500W inverter off a small battery. You maybe interested in these cells and BMS; https://overkillsolar.com/

 

[HRTKD]

I'm not a fan of the Renogy DCC50S. The solar input max voltage is low. If you plan to put in small solar panels that might work. But if you plan to install multiple medium to large size panels you'll hit the max voltage limit. Instead, find a good quality solar charge controller and a separate DC-DC charger.

 

[UncleTodo]

So a DC-DC charger may be putting to much of a load on my alternator, thus causing it to give up the smoke?
1500W is about double estimated need, highest I'll be running is a 700W Instant Pot.
I do have a conversion van which may have an upgraded alternator, I'll have to look into that.
Or maybe look at the 30A model instead.

As far as panels, I won't have more than a 1 panel, I'll have to measure the stretch across my high top to determine which wattage panel I'll get, 100W - 200W.
The rest of the top is too curved to do much more, but maybe a couple 50W flexible panels may fit towards the front but just the one, I don't want all those holes in the roof lol.

Thanks guys!

 

[HRTKD]

Without the DC-DC charger, the LiFePO4 battery can consume more amps than the alternator would normally want to provide.

If you purchase a DC-DC charger rated at XX amps input then that's all it will pull from the alternator. You can size the DC-DC charger to suit your alternator.

 

[UncleTodo]

Okay, so whichever DC-DC charger I go with, I need to verify my alternator is happy providing X amount of amps, yes?

Zil, what special stuff do I need?

Thanks guys!

 

[Zil]

Hopefully the Renogy protects from this. While charging a LiFePo battery the alternator will max out. If the BMS opens the "load dump" can blow the alternator's diodes into the next county. With the Renogy you may not need something like this, but this link is the explanation; https://shop.marinehowto.com/products/sterling-power-12v-transient-voltage-protection-device

 

[UncleTodo]

Gotcha, thanks for that. I've been looking into beefing my vehicles charging system along with determining what kind of output I'm getting from my alternator.

 

[HRTKD]

As far as panels, I won't have more than a 1 panel, I'll have to measure the stretch across my high top to determine which wattage panel I'll get, 100W - 200W.
The rest of the top is too curved to do much more, but maybe a couple 50W flexible panels may fit towards the front but just the one, I don't want all those holes in the roof lol.

Flexible panels do exist. In the past they weren't very good, but the recent releases have been getting a lot better reviews. Here is a link to a write-up on a flexible panel install.

600 Watt DIY Solar System On Our RV - RV With Tito

The solar system I installed works well because it's customized to suit our needs and style of camping. There are no one-size-fits-all RV solar solutions.

www.rvwithtito.com

 

[UncleTodo]

So this is what I'm working with for solar, the rear of my high top has a nice little divot area towards the back that a panel would fit in nicely, Depending on what the measurement is pointed out by the arrow will determine what length, thus wattage of panel I get, but at least 100.
The square in the middle is my Maxxfan Deluxe, and the rectangle in the front is where I thought it may be possible to put a 50w panel on passenger and driver side. But those would be a future addition. I have been primarily looking at Renogy stuff, but only due to seemingly van life'rs plugging them so much lol. Plus I hadn't been here yet
Sorry for the crude MS Paint pic..

 

[HRTKD]

I don't have any Renogy equipment, so I can't speak from experience about their quality.

The flexible panels could give you a lot more watts without any holes in the roof. You will need a hole to bring the wires in, of course.

 

[UncleTodo]

So here's take two.
For the vehicles charging system, I'll be doing a Big Three upgrade along with a higher output alternator.
2 AWG Pos & Neg cable will be run from the battery to "electric closet"
BSS 60amp breaker for house & vehicle battery with vehicle most likely mounted under hood
Anderson SB175 175amp power connector
Power studs Pos for house battery and car battery
Kisae DMT-250 will connect to these & ground
BSS 300amp 3 position, 1, 2, & Off, this will feed & switch inverter & fuse panel from either house or car battery(separate switch for inverter & fuse panel?)
BSS 150amp breaker inline with inverter
Anderson SB125 power connector to fuse panel (not sure if it needs to be 125amp?)

The fuses are the recommended sizes from Kisae.
The system except fuse panel will be built on a removable base, hence the connectors from vehicle battery and switch to panel.
Do I need to add, remove, or rethink anything?
Sorry for the crude Visio work, and neglected to add a Neg line from BMS.