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Deer Stand Solar Power Help

HuntingShack

New Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2020
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Hi all! New to the solar powered world here, I do have a good understanding of AC/DC and general wiring. I have been doing a lot of reading and have a good idea of what I need, but wanted to get some more experienced guys with solar to help design a system with me. I am wanting to install a solar kit on a permanent deer stand that I have been building for awhile. I am mainly looking to have enough power to charge a phone, run a light or two and if possibly power a small tv for those long slow days. I was thinking of running plain old romex with a couple outlets threw the walls before the insulation and interior plywood gets installed. My main question would be size/brand of components that I would need ex: how many batteries/size, size panels, what size charge controller, and inverter. I know there are a lot of kits out there that would probably work just fine, but being its something that I would be walking away from for a month or two at a time I don't want to have skimp on a part. With that being said would it be a good idea to put a disconnect switch/circuit breaker between panels and charge controller? Thanks
 
Always a good idea. Otherwise you can cover the module. The worst is just unplugging it or lifting a wire from its terminal or pulling a fuse. It damages the contacts and can lead to fire.

The convienience itself deserves a switch and general safety may require a fuse, so a breaker is often used even if you do not need the overcurrent protection.
 
Howdy! I can give you a little noob helping a noob. We sound similar as DIYers, so... I’m building a modified version of the 24 v system here: https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/2000-watt-24v-solar-system.html
I pretty much bought all of the pieces, and really like them as recommended. I did choose different panels, as mine is on a shop roof, not an RV.

I’ll let someone more experienced help you with the off season smarts, but with a few circuit breakers, you could safely “shut the system down”.

I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777H8MS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So I could measure what things were really using.

-eric
 
Howdy! I can give you a little noob helping a noob. We sound similar as DIYers, so... I’m building a modified version of the 24 v system here: https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/2000-watt-24v-solar-system.html
I pretty much bought all of the pieces, and really like them as recommended. I did choose different panels, as mine is on a shop roof, not an RV.

I’ll let someone more experienced help you with the off season smarts, but with a few circuit breakers, you could safely “shut the system down”.

I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777H8MS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So I could measure what things were really using.

-eric

Looks like a great system but now 100% sure I need that large of a system. Or maybe I do! LOL Also i'm on a semi budget as my wife was not happy when I had a guy vinyl side my deer stand. Solar was not in my original plan when building it but started researching it and it has me excited.
 
First off disconnect switches are always a good thing. But I would have no issues leaving the panels hooked up keeping batteries topped up at all times except when its too cold to charge the batteries properly.

Your romex plan should be fine however I would still use LED lighting at a minimum, or plan to use DC lights that way you can run inverterless and save some energy if needed. I have run my off grid cabin with 2 100Ah marine batteries which is actually only net of 100AH so its possible to go pretty small if you think you will have plenty of sun during the day. More batteries are always better if its in the budget.
 
Looks like a great system but now 100% sure I need that large of a system. Or maybe I do! LOL Also i'm on a semi budget as my wife was not happy when I had a guy vinyl side my deer stand. Solar was not in my original plan when building it but started researching it and it has me excited.
an energy audit is always best to do first you can use a KillO watt or similar to mock up what yu would run at home and see how much energy you actually need.
 
Looks like a great system but now 100% sure I need that large of a system. Or maybe I do! LOL Also i'm on a semi budget as my wife was not happy when I had a guy vinyl side my deer stand. Solar was not in my original plan when building it but started researching it and it has me excited.
I hear you about excited! I spent the last 2 days installing my panels, since it finally stopped raining! :)

DADCCEA1-52F2-49C0-90B5-C2F0B3EC6A1C.jpeg
(I know... room for more. My angled mounts are slightly diy, so that was fun.)

My system is bigger than you need, but it seems the 24v is the same cost-ish as 12v, and gives you more for your money. The components are a good learning starting point, for understanding the various components you will need. I think he has a smaller... like

400w system on the site. Here it is: https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/the-classic-400-watt-rvs-vans-buses.html

I liked the larger system, because things seem often over rated, AND making things operate easily seems best for long life span to me.
 
My deer blind had a light, phone charging and a cb radio all run on 3w solar and a 10ah battery. We just never used it up enough to have it hit empty.

I like what Craig said. If you mock it up and measure it or list it as a table or spreadsheet, you will know what you need.

Every blind has different consumption! Some people really do want a coffee pot and microwave, tv,.etc. this makes it more of a cabin than a shack or blind, but....

Incidentally, if you have sealed lead acid, you can just leave it unattended...... and not have an issue. Then just like a vacation house or weekend getaway cabin, even if you basically have not enough solar input your battery can be large enough to cover the loads amd be ready next time you visit with a realatively small array.

With the cost of panels most budgets can just use the sledge hammer..... its not 1998 anymore, the panels are the most cost effective component.

Still have to either set a budget and build the best you can, then accept whatever it is,
Or find out how much power you need by measurement or estimation.
 

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