Did I Design This Correctly? 24v/10.2KWh/1200w RV system. (Diagram attached)

[John Frum]

Thank you all for the feedback, especially @rmaddy! I think I got all of your feedback into this updated diagram. Let me know If I missed anyting.
View attachment 91521

Did your diagram get hosed?

 

[rmaddy]

Did your diagram get hosed?

Looks good to me.

 

[eXodus]

I was under the impression that if I'm running 2p I don't need to fuse the panels, but anything more than 2p fuses would be required

With 2 strings you can sometimes get away with not fusing between them. The scenario is - one of the panels shorts out - then one string feeds into the other string - since they are parallel and heats that up.
This scenario is very rare - and nothing catastrophic usually happens - panels get warm and die over a few weeks.
You panel is rated with 9.5. A but only has a fuse rating of 15A - so that's less then 2x There are panels with 10A but have a fuse rating of 30A.
So recommended to have fuse between strings -not required.

I personally don't like combiner boxes on the roof - the RV roof is already cluttered enough, further they really get a beating up in the weather.
Your 3s 2P you can easy just hook up directly. 3 panels in series with just wires and then a Y-Splitter.

This is something that was recommended at explorist.life. I'm not sure why, but I think it's simply because there are not enough connection points on the Lynx for the charge controller ground, so they recommended running it to the inverter then to the lynx. Do you recommend something different?

It depends where you mount your equipment? If you got an RV with Fiberglass walls it can be difficult to find something to ground to, then I can see that configuration you are doing. Usually I try to ground to the closest metal structure of the vehicle. My charge controller for instance is grounded to the screw of a seatbelt on the floor. My batteries are directly grounded to Chassis frame of my Class A.
It depends what people define as their "reference ground"

With a 3S 2P config you will be running 60V at around 20A so a 10AWG (max 30A) between panels and MPPT should be fine. 8AWG gives you more expansion capacity.

I've built a similar system from the 120V side - just FYI you can use the existing 120V -12V converter charger in the powercenter and don't do the 24V-12V conversion if you 12V battery is still fine. It's only slightly less efficient (depends on the 12V charger) and adds a layer of backup.