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Fried my Victron Orion 24 to 12 V 80 amp converter. Help with Mosfet replacement.

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Solar Wizard
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Nov 14, 2021
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Oops. Had a battery on the output of this and connected Positive to negative for split second. Big spark and then smoke. One thing that surprised me is that it kept generating heat and smoking until I disconnected the 24V input. It didn't pop it's internal fuses. I was expecting more disaster than what I found.

This little Mosfet is cooked and is the only damage I can see.

Screenshot_20240327_145503_Gallery.jpg




Is this a suitable replacement?

 
That's the same part. The RG at the end of the part number just describes how it comes packaged when sold in bulk.
 
In further study, I think the board is too cooked. One pin passes through and connects to a trace on the back side but I honestly can't see what the other two pins connect to on the front.

The pin on the is soldered to a trace on the back.

The two on the left, must have burned their trace. Tried to clean the charring as best I could.


20240327_151634.jpg
 
That black mark is likely from the insides of the burned out SCR you removed. The board itself may be fine. Try cleaning it with some rubbing alcohol. A nylon brush might help.
 
That black mark is likely from the insides of the burned out SCR you removed. The board itself may be fine. Try cleaning it with some rubbing alcohol. A nylon brush might help.

Yeah I can tell it's magical goo.

Thanks for the tip. I'll get the fet ordered up.
 
Looks like it is the conformal coat cooked. Once cleaned up as much as possible with alcohol you can take an exacto knife and gently scratch that off enough to see where the runs go and if they are actually damaged.
 
Looks like it is the conformal coat cooked. Once cleaned up as much as possible with alcohol you can take an exacto knife and gently scratch that off enough to see where the runs go and if they are actually damaged.

Thank you. Fet ordered. Will dig deeper once I have the replacement on-hand.
 
Thank you. Fet ordered. Will dig deeper once I have the replacement on-hand.

When you go to solder the new one in, flow a bunch of new solder first to get the old leads out of the holes. The solder they use to mfg the boards typically have a higher melting point that what you will have to replace it. Doing this avoids lifting the runs from overheat.
 
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