I'm looking at using a growatt spf 3000tl lvm-48p, which has the lower solar controller minimum voltage, at 60v instead of 120v like a lot of all in ones. I'd get 1 48v 100ah server battery.
I would be looking to do something similar to this:
I realize he's not a licensed electrician, and he does have some newer videos, where he fixes some of the issues viewers point out to him, like using wire marrettes.
But I've also seen a few others doing similar builds, and it is basically the Prowse beginner 48v build, placed in an RV.
Ideally, I'd like to take the line after the shore power/generator transfer switch, use it as my AC in on the growatt. Continue to my existing panel that the transfer switch goes to, with the AC out from the growatt. Then I could power the RV or charge the batteries with shore/generator.
I would turn off the breaker for the shore power converter for the 12v system in the main panel, and use https://amzn.to/42NvT3s a dc-dc stepdown 48v-12v to power the 12v system.
I know I need to disconnect my existing alternator so that it isn't charging lithium batteries. Is there a cheaper solution to add the alternator charging back in? The 48v options seem very expensive. I wasn't sure if you could use another converter, or if I should just leave the existing 12v lead acid batteries in place, and charge them with the truck alternator, and the 48v batteries. The current batteries are in a side storage bay with a tray that slides out. You can see the road beneath the tray, so it isn't very element proof, so I'll be looking to use one of the other storage areas.
The thing I haven't really figure out are the panels. I know only using 2-4 panels on the roof of an RV may not be good enough to get the 120v needed for most of the all in one solar controllers, but with this growatt version at 60v, I shouldn't have a problem using 2-4 panels to charge should I?
I do have a roof rack, and could possibly strap bigger, more residential style panels.
Any advice on the panels or my system in general? It's a 2006 Bigfoot 30mh29sl if you need any other info for the motorhome
Thanks in advance for any help!
I would be looking to do something similar to this:
I realize he's not a licensed electrician, and he does have some newer videos, where he fixes some of the issues viewers point out to him, like using wire marrettes.
But I've also seen a few others doing similar builds, and it is basically the Prowse beginner 48v build, placed in an RV.
Ideally, I'd like to take the line after the shore power/generator transfer switch, use it as my AC in on the growatt. Continue to my existing panel that the transfer switch goes to, with the AC out from the growatt. Then I could power the RV or charge the batteries with shore/generator.
I would turn off the breaker for the shore power converter for the 12v system in the main panel, and use https://amzn.to/42NvT3s a dc-dc stepdown 48v-12v to power the 12v system.
I know I need to disconnect my existing alternator so that it isn't charging lithium batteries. Is there a cheaper solution to add the alternator charging back in? The 48v options seem very expensive. I wasn't sure if you could use another converter, or if I should just leave the existing 12v lead acid batteries in place, and charge them with the truck alternator, and the 48v batteries. The current batteries are in a side storage bay with a tray that slides out. You can see the road beneath the tray, so it isn't very element proof, so I'll be looking to use one of the other storage areas.
The thing I haven't really figure out are the panels. I know only using 2-4 panels on the roof of an RV may not be good enough to get the 120v needed for most of the all in one solar controllers, but with this growatt version at 60v, I shouldn't have a problem using 2-4 panels to charge should I?
I do have a roof rack, and could possibly strap bigger, more residential style panels.
Any advice on the panels or my system in general? It's a 2006 Bigfoot 30mh29sl if you need any other info for the motorhome
Thanks in advance for any help!
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