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Hi from Texas, DC Fridge needs battery help

Skooliemom

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Oct 8, 2019
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I have been using a portable 21w folding panel to charge my power banks that I use to run lights and fans. Only issue I have is refrigerator I have a generator that runs my A/c unit when home, and was planning on buying a battery charger to charge up batteries to run my Dorm refrigerator. My question is (note I am getting 2 AGM deep cycle battery at 120ah) do you think this set up would be safe?
 

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300 watts isn't much when it comes to starting a fridge, even a small dorm fridge (under bar style?). Is that a pure sine wave inverter or a modified sine wave job? Motors will run on modified but will run hotter and have other problems. pure sine is the best choice for that application. Do you have any specs for the fridge and inverter, or even links to a web site for them?
 
Hey Texas!

Welcome!

Just to clarify a bit on @gnubie's post. Devices with motors have what's known as an in-rush current. That is a refrigerator might not take a lot of watts to run, but they take a lot of watts for a very brief time to get the compressor to start up. AFAIK, no way to tell without trying it or a special clamp meter that can accurately measure in-rush current. The good news is inverters can also, for a very short time, output more power. For example that BesTek can peak to 700 watts.

Also, some inverters come with chargers built in; might be cheaper than getting an inverter and charger separately. What's really nice is if you get one with an ATS built in too. That way if the power goes and you're not around the beer will still stay cold.
 
In my tiny trailer I have a 12v Peltier type fridge. That may not work for some, but all I have in there when I travel is water and dog food. It keeps everything 20 degrees cooler than the ambient temperature around it, so if the trailer is 65, everything in there is 45. That is NOT going to work out well if you are keeping meat and fruit and veggies in there. In fact I should even stop calling it a fridge, as it is more of a cooler. Point of the reply being that it has no condenser or motor to kick in with a heavy demand for start up power. No cooling coils, etc.
 
I've had a look at the Bestek web site and I think I found the inverter but there's nothing there about what sort of output the device produces, ie pure sine or modified sine. I can't say for sure but I'm leaning on it being modified so it's, IMO, not suitable for running a compressor motor in a fridge.

I've also looked at the specs for your fridge and it says it is intended to run off DC directly. Do you have a power adaptor / brick for the fridge, 110VAC in 12DC/24DC out? If this is how you run your fridge you might find its a better idea to not use the inverter at all, instead connecting the fridge directly to the battery. According to the manual for the fridge it will run off 12 or 24 volts and automatically adjust to suit. It even seems to have undervoltage lockout so it won't kill your battery by over0discharging it. The cutoff point is low, so it isn't being all that kind to the battery.

Have you worked out what charger you are going to use for the batteries?
 
Hey Texas Skooliemom!

First let me just say you are a goddess divine for including the link!

From the datasheet your refrigerator is a DC refrigerator, 4.1A on 12V & 2.1A on 24V.
So, you won't hook it up to the inverter, instead it hooks up to the battery and you don't need to worry about inrush current as that's the one thing batteries are really good at.

Now, your actual question is would 2 AGM deep cycle battery at 120ah@20hrs be safe?

If it's physical safety, as long as nothing metal can get across the terminals and the system fused properly. You can also put caps over the terminals to shield them or wrap electrical tape around them.

But I suspect you want to know if two batteries are sufficient for your needs. The answer to that depends on the total amount of power you need. But it sounds like you've some experience with this and are only concerned with the fridge so let's talk about that.

The Battery FAQ can explain most of this in better detail, but a 120 Ah lead acid battery is measured at the 20 hour rate, what that means is it'll last 120 hours as long as you don't pull more than 120 / 20 = 6 amps out of it. So far so good, the fridge only pulls 4.1 amps!

Next, all batteries have a limit on many times they can recharged before they need to be replaced. Most people only pull 50% power out of their lead acid batteries in order to increase the number of times they can be recharged The more they are discharged each time, the fewer recharge cycles they can support. As you can see from the Battery FAQ, some battery vendors supply datasheets that allow you to understand what depth of discharge (DoD) works best for you.

So, if you go with the 50% depth of discharge, a 120 Ah lead acid battery only has 60 Ah available to you. Next is temperature. At 40 degrees F a lead acid battery has roughly 70% the power (an actual value would come from the battery's datasheet). So, your 60 Ah drops to 60 x .7 = 42 Ah.

Sorry for the long post, but only you know the conditions you'll be operating in and hopefully this explains how to figure it out. So, if you had two 120 Ah batteries that you operated at 50% DoD at 40 degrees F you'd have a total of 120 Ah x 2 batteries x 50% DoD x 70% temperature correction factor = 84 Ah. That's at 12 V, so 84 amp hours x 12 V = 1008 watt hours.

The refrigeration draws 4.1 amps x 12 volts = 50 watts while it's running. But usually refrigerators turn on, then turn off until the insides warms up a bit. That's called the duty cycle, and it depends on the refrigerator's insulation, how often the door is open, etc. It's really hard to guess this number, but let's say the compressor in the refrigerator runs 15 minutes for each hour, that's a 25% duty cycle.

So, each day the refrigerator will consume 24 hours x 25% x 50 watts = 300 watts per day. So, if your two batteries have a total of 1008 watt hours, you should have 1008/300 = 3.36 days on them.

Hope that helps!
 
Forgot to mention, Lithium batteries get a good number of recharge cycles at 90% Depth of Discharge, so one of those could be like two AGMs, and lighter/smaller. Check over in the battery forums as there's a lot of discussion about batteries on the markets and some of the prices have really dropped. Will posted about one here.
 
Forgot to mention, Lithium batteries get a good number of recharge cycles at 90% Depth of Discharge, so one of those could be like two AGMs, and lighter/smaller. Check over in the battery forums as there's a lot of discussion about batteries on the markets and some of the prices have really dropped. Will posted about one here.


That was a long post but very informative. Thank for that. If I went with lithium batteries do I have to worry about the weather/temp? I only picked AGM because I and getting 2x $300 batteries for $100 from a friends business (cell towers) from his boss.
 
....If I went with lithium batteries do I have to worry about the weather/temp? ...
Hey Texas!

Only if the batteries get to freezing. Typically Lithium batteries only lose about 10% power over there operational temperature range.

But, if you try to charge a lithium battery at or below around freezing, you can permanently damage the battery. Doing so even once can result in a sudden, severe, and permanent capacity loss on the order of several dozen percent or more. ref

If they might be subject to such temperatures, folks use something that's like a heating pad to keep them warm. There's a discussion on it in another topic. I don't know much about it, but it sounds like regular heating pads or water-bed heaters have hot spots (but check that thread for tips and tricks). Heating pad, Hot Spots
 
What do y’all think of this To charge the batteries?
 

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What do y’all think of this To charge the batteries?
Don't know much about hardware, if you don't get a response here try asking in the battery section. I'll move the thread to the Beginner's corner too.

Inverter should be sized around 1500-2000 watts, and wired-in....
It's a DC fridge, she won't need anything that big.
@Skooliemom: Although those other power sources add up quick, use LED bulbs and check the wattage on your fans to be sure. Don't forget to add a low-voltage cutoff to maximize the life of your AGMs.
 
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