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Hooking the EG4 6000xp to a Manual Transfer Switch with 10 or 12 circuits

My choice of GFCI breaker or receptacle is always based on the individual situation. But if all things are equal, I prefer the receptacle. For all of the reasons above. Convenience and less nuisance.
 
Thanks for the info on this. Is this safety problem also true with other transfer units, like the ConnElectric (pic below)?

If I end up going with critical loads panel, then what size and brand of panel do you recommend? I would of course prefer to reuse my existing Siemens Q breakers but I am not sure whether I need a 60A or 100A or 150A sub panel to run 6 120v circuits, a heat pump circuit that is 20A, and a water heater circuit that is 30A -- all powered off of my new EG4 inverter.
There will be an AC disconnect or Rapid shutdown switch setup. This completely isolates off grid system.
 
I run two Reliance 510 transfer switches connected to my main panel that are fed by a 60 amp three pole switch. Output of the inverter goes into the three pole switch so in an emergency it can be thrown which will disconnect both L1 and L2 along with the neutral, completely isolating the inverter from the main panel. I removed the GFCI breakers from the main panel, replaced with normal breakers and installed 20 amp GFCI sockets at the head of the affected circuits. System works perfectly and gives me the option of being very selective of what runs on the utility, if anything at all. Only items here that remain on utility are the garbage disposal and the range hood. My panel is outside on a stucco wall so the Reliance units were a no brainer as a critical loads panel would have necessitated breaking out and repairing stucco, pulling wires through walls etc.
 
I run two Reliance 510 transfer switches connected to my main panel that are fed by a 60 amp three pole switch. Output of the inverter goes into the three pole switch so in an emergency it can be thrown which will disconnect both L1 and L2 along with the neutral, completely isolating the inverter from the main panel. I removed the GFCI breakers from the main panel, replaced with normal breakers and installed 20 amp GFCI sockets at the head of the affected circuits. System works perfectly and gives me the option of being very selective of what runs on the utility, if anything at all. Only items here that remain on utility are the garbage disposal and the range hood. My panel is outside on a stucco wall so the Reliance units were a no brainer as a critical loads panel would have necessitated breaking out and repairing stucco, pulling wires through walls etc.
How are you splitting out of the 3pole to the two TS inputs?
 
Can someone explain how this is dangerous on an EG4 6000xp which uses "common neutral" wiring and also the the inverter expects a ground neutral bond at the main panel.
I was just reading about this in the manual. The default for the 6000XP is to create a ground neutral bond in the inverter. This can be changed via setting 26 - covered on page 51.

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I didn't notice anyone talking about the output of the 6000xp here. Looks like you want to run several loads off of it and it is rated at about 25 amps output. You will trip it off on overload running your water heater and AC at the same time. You are going to need two or possibly an 18k instead.
 
I have a eg4 6000xp with no GFCI breakers in the ac panel and I already have a protrans 2 6 circuit
Transfer switch installed for generator connection. I was going the run ac power the ac panel to the 6000xp
so I can charge batteries. Then form the 6000xp ac out wire125 amp breaker panel. Connect the ac out form the 6000xp
to the 125 amp breaker panel with a 50 amp double pole breaker. Then I was going the connect a 30 amp double pole breaker in the
panel and connect a generator cord to that breaker to plug into the protrans 2 transfer switch. Just looking for some information
about connecting neutral and ground to the transfer switch. The transfer switch already has a neutral and ground connection.
 
I have a eg4 6000xp with no GFCI breakers in the ac panel and I already have a protrans 2 6 circuit
Transfer switch installed for generator connection. I was going the run ac power the ac panel to the 6000xp
so I can charge batteries. Then form the 6000xp ac out wire125 amp breaker panel. Connect the ac out form the 6000xp
to the 125 amp breaker panel with a 50 amp double pole breaker. Then I was going the connect a 30 amp double pole breaker in the
panel and connect a generator cord to that breaker to plug into the protrans 2 transfer switch. Just looking for some information
about connecting neutral and ground to the transfer switch. The transfer switch already has a neutral and ground connection.
The only issue with this is the AC input from the main panel.
You will be creating a loop in the neutral through the 6kxp and the transfer panel. As they both have a neutral connection to the main service panel.
I would not recommend this setup.
A critical loads panel is the way to go.
The transfer panel can still be used for the generator.
But a transfer switch would be better. (Between the main panel and 6kxp input)
 
I just installed this inverter for a friend. I came out of the main panel with a 50a circuit to a transfer switch. From the transfer switch I used Polaris lugs to so I could feed the transfer switch and the inverter. Then the inverter output went to the other side of the transfer switch. We installed a critical loads panel connected to the load of the transfer switch. We moved breakers and circuits from the main to the critical loads panel. This way we can run the critical panel from the main or inverter. Then we hooked the generator to the inverter.
 
My choice of GFCI breaker or receptacle is always based on the individual situation. But if all things are equal, I prefer the receptacle. For all of the reasons above. Convenience and less nuisance.
Okay - at the risk of exposing my ignorance - what are the rules about what circuits require GFCI?

Edit: found the below information - but it's just a highlight of the recent changes. What is the complete list of where GFCI is required?

While the 2023 NEC Code includes various changes related to AFCI protection, surge protection, and more, GFCI protection updates most directly impact residential electrical systems. Listed below are a few highlighted updates to GFCI protection.

  • GFCI protection is expanded to any plug- and cord-connected appliances in kitchens.
  • Internal receptacles are not required to have GFCI protection in bathroom exhaust fans, unless specified by the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • GFCI-protected receptacles are required in areas with sinks and permanent provisions for cooking or food and beverage preparation, such as office break rooms.
  • GFCI protection is required on branch circuits or outlets for electric ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, microwave ovens as well as clothes dryers.
  • GFCI protection is required for outdoor outlets rated 50 amp or less in garages and for outlets rated not over 150 volt to ground, 50 amp or less in accessory buildings and boathouses.
  • GFCI protection is required for all receptacles rated 60 amp or less within 20 feet of a swimming pool wall. There must also be GFCI protection for:
  • Equipment installed between 5-10 feet horizontally from the inside walls of a pool.
  • Luminaires, lighting outlets and ceiling fans between 5-10 feet horizontally from the inside walls of a pool and not less than 5 feet above the maximum water level.
 
Okay - at the risk of exposing my ignorance - what are the rules about what circuits require GFCI?
It really depends on your local AHJ and what they want.
But basically any wet areas, within 6' of a sink, and unfinished basements.
But extra locations for different jurisdictions.
 
The only issue with this is the AC input from the main panel.
You will be creating a loop in the neutral through the 6kxp and the transfer panel. As they both have a neutral connection to the main service panel.
I would not recommend this setup.
A critical loads panel is the way to go.
The transfer panel can still be used for the generator.
But a transfer switch would be better. (Between the main panel and 6kxp input)
All the loads I need to power are connected to the protrans 2 switch. So if I install an Eaton double throw 100 amp transfer switch
between the ac panel the inverter. Connect the output of the inverter the other end of Eaton transfer switch. Then connect the 125 amp panel with a 50 amp breaker to feed that panel. Then connect a 30 amp double pole breaker the connect to generator inlet plug?
 
All the loads I need to power are connected to the protrans 2 switch. So if I install an Eaton double throw 100 amp transfer switch
between the ac panel the inverter. Connect the output of the inverter the other end of Eaton transfer switch. Then connect the 125 amp panel with a 50 amp breaker to feed that panel. Then connect a 30 amp double pole breaker the connect to generator inlet plug?
No, 5hat still creates a loop through the inverter bypass relay.
You either need to omit the AC input to the inverter, from the main panel.
Or move the chosen circuits to a critical loads panel.
 
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