diy solar

diy solar

How do you check if A DC breaker is polarized or not?

I had disassembled mine too (200 amp from Watt24/7) and found mine to be absolutely symmetrical from side to side. No magnets in the arc chute at all. Yours appears to be polarized but they didn’t bother to mark it? That being said with as fast traveling as the contacts are and the large clearances involved, it wouldn’t be of any concern for a 48 volt battery voltage. It would probably be important with the higher voltage range such as PV voltages.

I updated my topic.

I have just opened another MCCB same model but 150A version and the two cages are magnetized in the same way as shown in the photos of terminal 1. This shows that the direction of the magnetic field does not matter in operation of this MCCB and confirms my analysis below.
 
I had disassembled mine too (200 amp from Watt24/7) and found mine to be absolutely symmetrical from side to side. No magnets in the arc chute at all. Yours appears to be polarized but they didn’t bother to mark it? That being said with as fast traveling as the contacts are and the large clearances involved, it wouldn’t be of any concern for a 48 volt battery voltage. It would probably be important with the higher voltage range such as PV voltages.

Do you have pictures ?
 
After all my reading today, the best non-polarized MCCB uses a rocking magnet or an electromagnet changing direction depending on the direction of the current. So having a magnet inside does not necessarily mean that the MCCB is polarized and from what I understand of the design of the TOMZN model (and probably others because they all look like clones) the permanent magnet was used to attract the arc to the left or right of the U-shaped cage therefore always away from the contacts.
 
I did purchase it because of the claim on Amazon. But I would like confirmation from another source before hooking it up and putting it under load. I ended up taking the cover off. Can anyone verify if it is bi-directional?
that is the arc chute / arc chamber
the arc will go from the plunger into the chamber better if the power is going pad -> plunger but the actual working of it is barely different which is probably why so many say it isn't polarized
The arc travels into the box via heat, and heat goes up via gravity.. so you want the breaker facing upwards.
The sheet says to do TOP LEFT as the positive inlet though
There are several different designs, some are only polarized some are both. Yours are the same design as many non polarized ones. Though it seems they go by testing of the breaker rather than the design to specify if something is polarized or non polarized

Therefore I'm not actually sure it is possible to tell if these types are "polarized" or not, just have to go based on what the manufacturer tested if they even release any info. Some of them seem to have no info at all lol.. I'd just not buy that brand.

lots of videos on the workings of them


No idea, but I was under the impression that there were fire extinguishers made for lithium batteries.
only way to put them out from an internal fire is to freeze them with liquid helium or something.
Also you can keep a bag of water and concrete above your batteries and just dump that on them if you really need to put it out (or sand if you're not cool enough to encase your batteries in concrete when something goes wrong)
All of the batteries with internal chemistry that has oxygen can burn under water

I had disassembled mine too (200 amp from Watt24/7) and found mine to be absolutely symmetrical from side to side. No magnets in the arc chute at all. Yours appears to be polarized but they didn’t bother to mark it? That being said with as fast traveling as the contacts are and the large clearances involved, it wouldn’t be of any concern for a 48 volt battery voltage. It would probably be important with the higher voltage range such as PV voltages.
his is also pretty much symmetrical other than the switch.
They're saying to go in the top left as main inlet of power and it kills the arc better if it goes pad to plunger instead of plunger to pad but it's barely different and I think the 200 different brands realized this thus started marking everything as non polarized

After all my reading today, the best non-polarized MCCB uses a rocking magnet or an electromagnet changing direction depending on the direction of the current. So having a magnet inside does not necessarily mean that the MCCB is polarized and from what I understand of the design of the TOMZN model (and probably others because they all look like clones) the permanent magnet was used to attract the arc to the left or right of the U-shaped cage therefore always away from the contacts.
yea the solenoid is pretty simple, you can pull an iron piston into the center of the electrical coil regardless of direction of flow... because the iron piston wants to be in the center of the coil. So they place it slightly outside of the coil and then when the coil has high amps it'll pull it in immediately.

The other mechanism is some two metal bar that heats up and bends over time and slowly pushes the trigger until it's just right and then the switch flips down. (Also why ambient temperature matters for that one)
There is sometimes a screw there to adjust it to be more/less of a curve/heat needed to trigger (thus more/less amps)

Not sure how the (newer?) hydraulic ones work haven't even looked at them at all
 
only way to put them out from an internal fire is to freeze them with liquid helium or something.
Also you can keep a bag of water and concrete above your batteries and just dump that on them if you really need to put it out (or sand if you're not cool enough to encase your batteries in concrete when something goes wrong)
All of the batteries with internal chemistry that has oxygen can burn under water

The sand idea is intriguing...at least the batteries could be dug out after a false alarm...
 
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