How to wire a temp suitcase panel

[Jminer777]

Hey there,
New to the forum, new to solar, tried searching probably don’t even know the right terminology.
I am planning a system for my vanagon.
Current plan is for a 200 Ah battery, with a remove eclipse 100w panel mounted to the luggage rack.
I would like a total of 300W solar and was hoping to use a suitcase version so I don’t always have to park in the sun.
Any concerns with the suitcase being temporary? I would only like to deploy if needed.
Anything special to consider in terms of the panels, or wiring?
Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Substrate]

Suitcase style systems often put the charge controller in the wrong place - behind one of the panels, rather than being close to the battery. Within a few feet.

This is done for convenience, but the *right* way to do it is to put the controller near the battery. So think about rewiring to do it right.

Putting the controller behind a panel exposes it to more heat, which in turn the controller's own temp-compensator may compensate too much (for lead acid that is - LFP needs NO temp comp).

Voltage drop is lessened when the controller is placed near the battery. So more efficient.

And avoid the common mistake of plopping a suitcase panel on the grass, with any sort of grass or ground shadow covering the bottom inch of the whole thing. Elevate with anything around to get bottom edge away from grass.

 

[chrisski]

Any concerns with the suitcase being temporary? I would only like to deploy if needed.

On my RV I have 1650 watts of panels and setup 900 watts of ground panels. This is able to run a 15k BTU off an AC. I rarely use the RV when I need AC, so the portable panels never go out. When they do, over the day, they make more power than the roof panels.

Anything special to consider in terms of the panels, or wiring?

Nothing special for wiring. Its just running the voltage drop to see if its acceptable and then deciding whether to go in series or parallel. I don't have the SCC on the panels, I combine the panels through a combiner box and then mount the SCC in the RV. The MC4 connectors has a 30 amp limit, so I just kept panel production under that; in my case no more than 4P. With voltage loss, on a 35' homemade cable., I wanted thicker, so I butt spliced 10 AWG wire which is the thickest that goes in MC4 connectors to 6 AWG to keep the voltage loss down.

For the making the panels, my 100 watt panels are 3' X 2' unfolded, and it takes about that much panel to make 100 watts. IMO, anything bigger becomes too bulky for me to store.

Mounting with legs is something to consider. I am in 35 knot winds and there is a point before 35 knots I will lay them flat, and after that, I need to put them away or they will blow away. If I forget, I will end up walking around the site to pick them up.

Build them however you want. Because it was cheaper than I could build myself, I bought mine through WalMart and the 100 watt lion energy portable panels. They are built pretty tough. A case to store these panels in is not cheap and the WalMart ones were delivered in a box with a carrying case/
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I was putting together a parts list, and was stuck on the hinge for the legs:

-2 like solar panels: 50 watt Renogy $67 X 2
--https://www.renogy.com/50-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-solar-panel-new-edition/

-2 hinges. $2.58 (total)
--https://www.amazon.com/Global-Door-Controls-Nickel-Bearing/dp/B00164JZYQ/ref=sr_1_25?dchild=1&keywords=aluminum+hinge&qid=1614131745&sr=8-25

-4’ Aluminum Square tube ¾” $17.98
--https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-72-in-Plain-Steel-Square-Tube-with-1-16-in-Thickness-801107/204225750

-2 butterfly latches #12 $12.49
--https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-1-69-inch-SUS304-Stainless-Butterfly/dp/B07XYW9RMJ/

-Chest Handle $5.68
--https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-N203-760-Handle-plated/dp/B000BOAYNI/

-Aluminum Rivets 3/16” short $6.27 Home Depot

-Friction Hinge $10.20 (Not ideal, but all I found).
-- https://www.amazon.com/Hardware-Essentials-851584-Friction-Support-Right/dp/B00EALVLF8/