I would like some advice from the many professionals in this forum.

[BCSolar]

This solar system is mainly for some LED lights •x10 LED light bars 20W, Input voltage:85-265V, 50/60HZ, Efficiency:110-120lm/w

My system includes the following:

•12V,65Ah, Deep cycle battery (using the lights maybe 3 hours per day.)

•800watt inverter.

•30 amp epever charge controller, with MT50 and temp sensor.

•60 amp breaker going to the inverter.

•20 amp breaker to the charge controller.

•20 amp breaker located outside acting as a rapid shut down.

•x1 100 watt renogy panel.

•40ft of 10AWG solar cable to panel.(coming out of 1/2” conduit in photo)

•All 8 AWG cable is 4 feet of jumper cable, properly crimped with ring terminals and heat shrink.

Is my inverter cable is alittle under gunned with a 60amp breaker? I was thinking 6 AWG since it’s over 3 feet? I’ll never be using the full potential of the controller, that’s why I kept the fuses at 20 amps.

Panel located on roof.
I was going to run 6AWG grounding wire(bare??) from the panel into an already existing ground rod beside my shop. Do I really have to run a separate ground rod 8 feet away?
Also can I ground my epever controller through an closed unused junction box beside my battery to ground my common ground system?

I realize none of this is up to code or doesn’t follow any NEC regulations. I just don’t want to burn my shed down.

Please let me know what info I forgot to mention and any discrepancies you see in the given photos. Thanks!

 

[tictag]

Your inverter is rated to draw 66A from a 12V battery at full load, which means you may end up tripping the breaker but, as you said, it is unlikely you will ever draw this so you shouldn't experience inconvenient tripping. 8AWG cable is rated for 75A (according to here) so no problems there.

8AWG cable offers a 1.01mΩ per foot resistance, or 6.06mΩ over the 3' cable run drawing 60A (max before breaker trips) will generate 21W losses (P=I²R), this isn't a lot and you'll rarely be pulling this, so I'd leave it as is.

A 100W PV array will generate around 6A on the PV side and 8A on the battery side, 10AWG cable is rated for 52A so these cables are way over specified (but safe!).

If anything, I would say your system is over-specified for your needs but it will certainly be safe (he says, inviting a law suit! )

The only comment I would make is that if you're powering your lighting from mains, this can be quite inefficient due to inverter losses. Have you considered DC lighting?

Additional comment: if you do end up pulling your inverter's rated output, due to the Puekert effect it is highly unlikely you would get an hour out of your 60AH battery. In fact, considering that you shouldn't regularly discharge a lead-acid below 50%DoD, you'll likely only get maybe 15-20 minutes. I understand that you might only be drawing a relatively smaller load, just trying to manage expectations.

Edit: Added additional comment.

 

[BCSolar]

Thank you for the quick response!

Sounds like I’m might have to do some more research for proper DC LED lighting.

When I power my inverter through my battery and plug in the string of ten LED light bars, the inverter says roughly 200watts being produced with the load plugged in.
Not sure if this information helps you or not with my situation.
Thanks for your comment and more would be appreciated.

 

[SolarRat]

Your battery has 780wh capacity...since this is a lead acid battery you'll want to limit the discharge depth to 50% of that= 390w.

Depending on your location, the most your 100w panel will charge with is about 500wh/day, on a very good day.

You are wanting to draw 3 hours of 200w lighting for 3 hours= 600wh + efficiency losses.

You see we have a couple problems here. If possible I'd add another panel and upsize your battery bank. Your install looks good.

 

[SolarRat]

Also, I think that is a dual-purpose battery (starter and deep cycle) you are using. They are good for starting your boat and running some very small loads like a fishfinder or anchor light with the motor off for short periods of time. They don't last long with a heavier load...you'll want a true deep cycle, or lithium.