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MC4 scam buster - what you have all been waiting for

CCA scam buster - what you have all been waiting for​


Hey guys I got a solution to combating all the CCA crap coming out of China let's just wire all of our battery banks and solar arrays up with aluminum wire :ROFLMAO: :unsure::LOL:

Click bait for sure what a waste of server space :poop: :poop: :poop:
 
Hi Guys - this is not a clickbait rubbish. Its my genuine attempt to overcome the serious MC4 problem - a demountable connection system that doesnt burn out on you.

So here is my Mk1 version
Solid brass mechanical straight coupling using 2 pairs of hex grub screws. The cable is standard 6mm2 solar TUV (10AWG). I hope the poor quality pix are self explanatory.
You could use a rubber tube (UV res) as a simple cover and squirt some Si grease in to keep water out. Or you can use a heatshrink sleeve if you dont expect to have to demount it (by stripping the sleeve - less convenient maybe.
Rated for 50A as per cable. Cost <$1. No crimping tool needed as the grub screw points and copper sleeve grip the strands tightly.

What do you think? Armchairs - do your worst

BTW I have no commercial interest - the design is offered as GNU for the benefit of Solar Members and saving on roof fires.
Could just use a busbar and nuts like we do for batteries. Super reliable and not that hard to disconnect.

Edit: Never mind. This is stupid for obvious reasons. 😂
 

CCA scam buster - what you have all been waiting for​


Hey guys I got a solution to combating all the CCA crap coming out of China let's just wire all of our battery banks and solar arrays up with aluminum wire :ROFLMAO: :unsure::LOL:

Click bait for sure what a waste of server space
Would layered aluminum foil work in a pinch? They had some Reynolds on sale at Sam's the other day.
 
Don't put any MC4 connectors close, they will melt.
What's the issue with the MC4 connectors anyways the only time I can possibly see there a problem is maybe when you've got a bunch of strings paralleled together

Always seems like somebody's got some half baked idea trying to one up something that already works just fine
 
What's the issue with the MC4 connectors anyways the only time I can possibly see there a problem is maybe when you've got a bunch of strings paralleled together

Always seems like somebody's got some half baked idea trying to one up something that already works just fine
If it isn't broke don't try and fix it....
I think the issue some have is they mismatch connectors, crimp them shitty, connect them poorly, use really cheap knockoffs, etc. This leads to resistance which creates heat causing the connector body to melt.

I feel that paralleling them is fine, if done properly with a combiner box when you're over 2 strings.
 
What's the issue with the MC4 connectors anyways the only time I can possibly see there a problem is maybe when you've got a bunch of strings paralleled together

Always seems like somebody's got some half baked idea trying to one up something that already works just fine
Personally in a pinch I would just zip tie wires together and terminate with a no-ox filled wire-nut

The fewer connection points the better
 
what's the deal with the tariffs on panels is that a nationwide thing

I knew it was coming on the batteries that's why I just ordered a bunch of raw cells
 
Anyone tried Mk l out yet - too much hot air flying around from naysayers. Problem I found was actually finding a proper source from a German source) for authentic Staubli MC4s very expensive. All others I found were various Cheap Charlie copies (not interchangeable btw). So whether your installer can be trusted (in UK) to use genuine products? Most consumers wouldnt understand the implications here and just get ripped off. A while back I posted on discovering fake TUV solar cable (4mm2 sold as 6mm2). It caused considerable embarrassment in industry circles (and then a deafening silence as I presented evidence). As usual I got a lot of pooh pooh even on this board. FWIW its quite difficult to determine the quality of a few meters of cable. The industry way is to measure a new 500m cable drum for end/end resistance. So guys the takeaway is look for evidence of this measurement tied to the drum code number. Big illicit profit to be made from counterfeits here. OZ is a good place for real user experience.

Just to get real here and remind you all of 48V at ca 50A
Notice that once an arc flash is established at that voltage you need ca 50mm gap to extinguish the flame, but a quick separation wont allow time for the flame to become established (as per my knife switch solution). I wish I had a safe current source like that to play with (and the sun as well). I maintain that a simple plant spritzer bottle would be a very effective disconnection aid (I was bazookered with pooh for this heresy)

Hope to provide some vids soon as I carry on regardless.
 

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