Microair EasyStart

[JRH]

Check out this thread on mini-split units.

What Mini-Split did you use, and Why?

Hey Y'all, I'm doing my due diligence, and trying to research the Mini-Split to use in my garage. There's as many choices for mini-splits as there are different brands/makes/models of Solar Panels! My question to those of you who have a mini-split, specifically if you installed it yourself, is...

diysolarforum.com

Thanks . I surly will ,once it gets to be Beer-thirty and I can come inside from mowing and sit Down…. Heats killin me today…68 degrees and strong sun… im getting too old for this stuff.
J.

 

[wme]

EG-4 Mini Split, 12k or 24k btu. Runs on grid with DIRECT solar offset, Solar panels direct to unit no batteries or solar controller. Enough panels and it will run as pure solar, 1200-2000w will do it.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

WHOA BUNDY… Zero surge is a biggie.. Heat pump is a biggie… I will research this… I have seen them mentioned here and there, but really paid little attention… is there a brand that people favor..? Not a cheapo but a good one…
it’s hard to keep up on everything anymore , but this is somthing that sorta smell like a possible prodject . Everyone loves a new project….
thanks , J.

MR COOL DIY come pre-charged and don't need a pro to install. There are some other brands that offer DIY setup, but many require professional vacuum and charge.

There are many reliable and recognizable brands.

Note also that you won't need as much BTU/h as your rooftop unit(s) would imply. Folks often find that 1/2 to 3/4 the size is sufficient.

Lastly, if you have a 4 season trailer, it may rely on the propane furnace circulation to keep the pipes/tanks from freezing. If that's the case, you'll like need to run the furnace fan if you are relying on the heat pump below freezing.

 

[JRH]

MR COOL DIY come pre-charged and don't need a pro to install. There are some other brands that offer DIY setup, but many require professional vacuum and charge.

There are many reliable and recognizable brands.

Note also that you won't need as much BTU/h as your rooftop unit(s) would imply. Folks often find that 1/2 to 3/4 the size is sufficient.

Lastly, if you have a 4 season trailer, it may rely on the propane furnace circulation to keep the pipes/tanks from freezing. If that's the case, you'll like need to run the furnace fan if you are relying on the heat pump below freezing.

Thanks… I would probably like to have one in addition to what I have. …cooling and heat… I like. backup and redundancy.

Funny you would mention the ducting….yes the belly is ducted but I modified it and moved 2 more hoses aiming down below .. makes it good to at least 15 below F As we had last year around Christmas .
This past fall I Rigged a 6 inch inline contious duty fan that has it input 6 inches from the 7 ft ceiling and blows all the heat up there straight down the hose to to the bilge plumbing area… …amazing how much heat hovers around the ceiling , just sitting there…..wasted .now it blows a steady stream of warm air where it’s needed.
the fan is super quiet , about 700 CFM and draws like 8 watts…
when temps arnt super cold ( maybe down to 20 F ) I don’t have to run the big furnace much … maybe a space heater and the furnace set lower than normal . The inline blower keeps recirculating the ceiling heat .

It has proven to be a great back up if the furnace quits on a cold night… as it did this Feb when the sail Switch quit working and I had to go about a week with no furnace…without the added blower vent , the pipes would have froze like pop cycles .

I believe in redundancy… everything fails… and IF you really need it Not to fail , that’s when it fails…
I will look into these things.
thx, J

 

[HRTKD]

I installed my new rooftop air conditioner on my camper today. It was a bad weekend for this project. All my friends (all two of them) were out of town. I set up my scaffolding over the tongue, backed up the truck to the scaffolding and then got one end of the box on the scaffolding and lifted the other end up. Then did the same to get it on the roof of the camper. I used rugs and floormats to protect the rubber roof.



I cleaned the rubber roof before installing the new air conditioner. That's the old one on its side.

New thermostat installed too. I put the Micro-Air EasyStart module on the rooftop unit before it went on the camper. Five starts (while on generator) and it was programmed. Either the EasyStart makes the compressor so quiet that I never hear it, or the new unit is just that much different from the old one (circa 2006). It blows nice and cold. Runs even better on the inverter. I was unable to get the EasyStart app to connect to the EasyStart module through Bluetooth. My phone can see it, but it won't pair. I'm pretty sure it's a permissions issue.

 

[Nobodybusiness]

I installed my new rooftop air conditioner on my camper today. It was a bad weekend for this project. All my friends (all two of them) were out of town. I set up my scaffolding over the tongue, backed up the truck to the scaffolding and then got one end of the box on the scaffolding and lifted the other end up. Then did the same to get it on the roof of the camper. I used rugs and floormats to protect the rubber roof.

View attachment 155352

I cleaned the rubber roof before installing the new air conditioner. That's the old one on its side.

New thermostat installed too. I put the Micro-Air EasyStart module on the rooftop unit before it went on the camper. Five starts (while on generator) and it was programmed. Either the EasyStart makes the compressor so quiet that I never hear it, or the new unit is just that much different from the old one (circa 2006). It blows nice and cold. Runs even better on the inverter. I was unable to get the EasyStart app to connect to the EasyStart module through Bluetooth. My phone can see it, but it won't pair. I'm pretty sure it's a permissions issue.

You don’t really pair them.
Just open the app near the device and hit Connect to easy start.

Once connected use the menu at the bottom.

 

[HRTKD]

You don’t really pair them.
Just open the app near the device and hit Connect to easy start.

Once connected use the menu at the bottom.

The permissions issue prevented the app from connecting. I'll give it another go soon.

 

[clone1008]

You have to cut the main Run wire to compressor to put the Easystart in series with compressor.

I bought a four terminal strip at Home Depot and made all the Easystart connections to the mounted four terminal strip. Two of the terminal strip connections are in the compressor Run wire path. This allows you to easily remove Easystart unit and place a short jumper wire between these two connections to reestablish original compressor Run wire connection if the Easystart ever craps out in the future.

Most likely failure with Easystart is the large black start capacitor. Good to have a spare start capacitor on hand.

As starter capacitor wears out due to electrolyte within capacitor drying out, the compressor startup begins to lengthen and 'grunt' a little more. Eventually the Easystart may terminate the startup attempt due to excessive startup current time length. You still have the Run foil capacitor to provide the original startup process.

One thing the Easystart can mask is a failure of the original metal can foil run capacitor (called 'start' capacitor in A/C manual). It will start normally, due to start capacitor in Easystart, and run fine but the run power factor of compressor will degrade resulting in bit greater run current due to poorer run power factor. Proper foil Run capacitor value improves compressor motor running power factor.

Typical foil run capacitor values are from about 30 uF for smaller btu units to 80 uF for larger btu units. I always use 440 vac rated run capacitors for best reliability.

This sounds like a great way to install it. Do you happen to have any pics?

 

[HRTKD]

The permissions issue prevented the app from connecting. I'll give it another go soon.

I still can't get the app to work with the EasyStart. I'll have to get with Micro-Air and see what they can tell me.

 

[clone1008]

I still can't get the app to work with the EasyStart. I'll have to get with Micro-Air and see what they can tell me.

Is your phone Apple or Android?

 

[HRTKD]

Is your phone Apple or Android?

It's Android. I updated the permissions before the last attempt. It's finding my Victron solar charge controller and populating that into two of the lines. While the third line remains blank, I will overwrite the first line with the EasyStart_<bluetooth id> value next time.

 

[clone1008]

It's Android. I updated the permissions before the last attempt. It's finding my Victron solar charge controller and populating that into two of the lines. While the third line remains blank, I will overwrite the first line with the EasyStart_<bluetooth id> value next time.

This video might help you...

 

[RCinFLA]

If it's not a connect permission issue, it might be RF level.

You may have the metal casing of A/C unit plus the metal covering of the RV attenuating RF path.

Try it with phone near the A/C unit.

 

[HRTKD]

If it not a connect permission issue, it might be RF level.

You may have the metal casing of A/C unit plus the metal covering of the RV attenuating RF path.

Try it with phone near the A/C unit.

The roof of the RV is rubber and I'm usually standing about 8' from the air conditioning vent inside the RV. I've seen the EasyStart pop up on my Bluetooth pairing screen, so I know it's out there. I just can't get the app to find it.

 

[Quattrohead]

Turn GPS location on your phone then you will be able to connect.

 

[HRTKD]

Turn GPS location on your phone then you will be able to connect.

I've had it on.

 

[fmeili1]

Just to share my observations about this product with you - it works great in my situation:

• Trane heat pump XR14-4TWR4060G1000AC (5 ton - 60000 BTU)
• Micro-Air EasyStart 368 Soft Starter (ASY-368-X72-BLUE)

The heat pump is specified with 144 LRA (locked rotor amps ) and 24.4 RLA (rated load amps).

Before installation I've measured 162 amps inrush (2 times the exact same value in a row with 10 minutes waiting time between the two measurements) and about 17 amps runtime (the heat pump is running now in cooling mode - it starts getting hot here in Arizona).

Over the 5 learning cycles the inrush decreased with these steps (the first value is without micro-air): 162A / 47.1A / 42.2A / 33.9A / 33.5A
Btw., the runtime amps reduced from 17A to 15 A (but I don't know if it has to do with the micro-air or if it's a coincident)

This is an unbelievable reduction of factor 4.8! That's incredible and will hopefully help to increase the lifetime of the inverters AND the compressor motor. There are also two other positive side effects. The start of the compressor is now very silent instead of the previous loud "bang" when it starts and the lights don't flicker anymore (even when connected with the grid).

Just an update after about 3,5 month usage with more than 5000 starts in harsh conditions with >100 Fahrenheit since more than 2 month in a row and >110 Fahrenheit since about 4 weeks in a row and the highest day was 122 Fahrenheit - here in the middle of the desert.

0 faults!

This thing is really reliable!



The EasyStart unit is mounted (as usual) on the outside of the compressor case and unfortunately it gets full sun for about 2-3 hours a day (I think about to shade the EasyStart unit a little bit - over time, this may help to improve the lifetime of the unit in this extreme heat).

 

[RCinFLA]

Weak link in the Easystart, as with all starter cap boost soft starters, is the large uFd value electrolytic based starter capacitor. It is located inside the Easystart box and can be easily replaced. Cap is large black plastic cased and has terminal spade lugs and a tie wrap hold down.

Good to keep a spare start capacitor on hand. They only cost about $15.

On the 368 Easystart models, the only difference in the various btu size targeted versions is the value of the starter capacitor in them, with larger btu units getting a higher value start capacitor.

Electrolyte in the cap will gradually dry out which causes its capacitance to gradually decrease over time. If you have the BT version Easystart you will see a gradual increase in startup surge current as capacitor wears out.

My first Easystart start cap started to degrade after about two years but I would normally expect at least 3 to 5 years before capacitor needs replacing to keep the startup surge at its optimum.

Another thing about the Easystart soft starter is it will mask a bad run capacitor. On the original A/C with just Run capacitor, if Run capacitor goes bad the compressor will not start and just grunt until breaker or compressor overtemp cutout occurs. With the Easystart, the compressor will start up fine but without a good Run capacitor the compressor will run with a poorer power factor yielding a higher run current.

 

[fmeili1]

Weak link in the Easystart, as with all starter cap boost soft starters, is the large uFd value electrolytic based starter capacitor. It is located inside the Easystart box and can be easily replaced. Cap is large black plastic cased and has terminal spade lugs and a tie wrap hold down.

Good to keep a spare start capacitor on hand. They only cost about $15,

Electrolyte in the cap will gradually dry out which causes its capacitance to gradually decrease over time. If you have the BT version Easystart you will see a gradual increase in startup surge current as capacitor wears out.

My first Easystart start cap started to degrade after about two years but I would normally expect at least 3 to 5 years before it needs replacing to keep the startup surge at its optimum.

Another thing about the Easystart soft starter is it will mask a bad run capacitor. On the original A/C with just Run capacitor, if Run capacitor goes bad the compressor will not start and just grunt until breaker or compressor overtemp cutout occurs. With the Easystart, the compressor will start up fine but without a good Run capacitor the compressor will run with a poorer power factor yielding a higher run current.

Good hint about watching for increasing startup amps over time (compared to previous starts at the same ambient temperatures). I will do some screenshots from time to time and will save them for later comparison.

In your very helpful post you've wrote about the idea to replace the existing electrolytic based type with a "foil based aluminum" type. Would you recommend a specific brand which is maybe known for it's high quality, durable capacitors for this use case (ASY-368-X72-BLUE with my 60.000 BTU unit)? I've done a quick search and found e.g. one from TEMCo ($17.95 or two for $30.52), one from BlueStars ($13.99 or two for $26.99) and one from Appli ($18.79) but none of them does explicitly state that these are "foil based aluminum capacitors".

I guess, they are, but I'm not sure.

 

[RCinFLA]

Good hint about watching for increasing startup amps over time (compared to previous starts at the same ambient temperatures). I will do some screenshots from time to time and will save them for later comparison.

In your very helpful post you've wrote about the idea to replace the existing electrolytic based type with a "foil based aluminum" type. Would you recommend a specific brand which is maybe known for it's high quality, durable capacitors for this use case (ASY-368-X72-BLUE with my 60.000 BTU unit)? I've done a quick search and found e.g. one from TEMCo ($17.95 or two for $30.52), one from BlueStars ($13.99 or two for $26.99) and one from Appli ($18.79) but none of them does explicitly state that these are "foil based aluminum capacitors".

I guess, they are, but I'm not sure.

The foil caps have less capacitance for their size so you cannot fit them into the Easystart box. You can wire two or three foil capacitors in parallel to get required start capacitance and put them outside near the A/C original Run capacitor location if you have the available room. Just run the two cap wires back into the wire bundle grommet weather clamp on Easystart box.

 

[HRTKD]

I finally got the EasyStart app to connect to my EasyStart 364. The app updated a couple days before I tried again. I don't know if the update was the key or not. Anyhow, it's nice to see the low startup amps as well as the running amps without having to connect an ammeter. This is on a brand new Coleman Mach 15 rooftop air conditioner.

 

[RCinFLA]

Update on BT Easystart.

I replaced my 3 year old original non-BT Easystart 368 with a new BT version. I am a bit disappointed with BT version.

First, the BT range is not great on the unit I got. Open air free path, directly line of sight from Easystart, I can only get 10' to 15'. Because I can install EasyStart in the compressor relay/run capacitor area, I expected a reduced range when I added the metal housing cover back on A/C unit. BT range dropped to about 2' away from unit with A/C cover attached.

Second issue is the reported current is only the motor run winding current. It does not include the start (auxilary) winding current. Typical motor start (auxiliary) winding current is about 60-70% the magnitude of the run winding current with an approximate 90 degs current phase shift in start winding current in relation to run winding current during the run period.

For example, if you measure run winding current and get 10 amps and start winding at 7 amps during run period, the vector sum of 10 amps at zero phase reference and 7 amps at 90 degrees offset is 12.2 amps of actual motor current on common power line of compressor. (EasyStart does not have access to the compressor common wire to get its total motor current).

So Easystart is reading about 20% low on the current readout. Note there is variability in the 90 degrees current offset due to motor loading and tolerance of run capacitor. Now I know why everyone swears they see a reduction in run current with Easystart. It is fake, there is no reduction in run current with Easystart. Easystart internal relay bypasses the unit's triac after startup. I verified the EasyStart reported current by measuring only the run winding current and it matched the Easystart reported current.

Same goes for reported startup surge current. Still a good reduction but it is not as low as what is reported. The 90 degree phase shift of start winding current during startup surge current has a greater variance than run state conditions. If startup time starts to get longer it is a likely indication the electrolytic based large mfd. start capacitor is weakening in valve due to electrolyte dry out. The Easystart does not automatically change its startup voltage ramp profile after initial training. As start cap weakens you just reach a point of compressor stall during startup causing Easystart to fault out and pull-the-plug.

One thing that is missing that should be added is the millseconds startup time. It should be relatively easy to add with a firmware upgrade and app change to show its value.

 

[justinm001]

Update on BT Easystart.

I replaced my 3 year old original non-BT Easystart 368 with a new BT version. I am a bit disappointed with BT version.

First, the BT range is not great on the unit I got. Open air free path, directly line of sight from Easystart, I can only get 10' to 15'. Because I can install EasyStart in the compressor relay/run capacitor area, I expected a reduced range when I added the metal housing cover back on A/C unit. BT range dropped to about 2' away from unit with A/C cover attached.

Second issue is the reported current is only the motor run winding current. It does not include the start (auxilary) winding current. Typical motor start (auxiliary) winding current is about 60-70% the magnitude of the run winding current with an approximate 90 degs current phase shift in start winding current in relation to run winding current during the run period.

For example, if you measure run winding current and get 10 amps and start winding at 7 amps during run period, the vector sum of 10 amps at zero phase reference and 7 amps at 90 degrees offset is 12.2 amps of actual motor current on common power line of compressor. (EasyStart does not have access to the compressor common wire to get its total motor current).

So Easystart is reading about 20% low on the current readout. Note there is variability in the 90 degrees current offset due to motor loading and tolerance of run capacitor. Now I know why everyone swears they see a reduction in run current with Easystart. It is fake, there is no reduction in run current with Easystart. Easystart internal relay bypasses the unit's triac after startup. I verified the EasyStart reported current by measuring only the run winding current and it matched the Easystart reported current.

Same goes for reported startup surge current. Still a good reduction but it is not as low as what is reported. The 90 degree phase shift of start winding current during startup surge current has a greater variance than run state conditions.

One thing that is missing that should be added is the millseconds startup time. It should be relatively easy to add with a firmware upgrade and app change to show its value.

Bluetooth and most RF signals don't work through metal so putting it inside a metal enclosure definitely hurts its range, not really their fault and not all AC cases are metal.

Completely agree about it not lowering run current, idk how people think this.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

BT range on Victron smartshunt is pretty horrid. They claim the induced magnetic field through the shunt and it's proximity to the radio interfere with signal strength. The similar function BMV-712 has the BT radio in the external display giving it luscious range.

 

[justinm001]

BT range on Victron smartshunt is pretty horrid. They claim the induced magnetic field through the shunt and it's proximity to the radio interfere with signal strength. The similar function BMV-712 has the BT radio in the external display giving it luscious range.

My coach is made of stainless steel so everything acts as a Faraday cage and horrible range. Luckily the subfloor is wood and they didnt cover the bay roof with metal. I have a sena bt usb adapter with a little antenna on the cerbo and it does pretty well picking up my bt ruuvi sensors. Some aren't detected for hours though but it'll pickup the 2 I left on my old rv in my driveway perfectly... although I can't figure out where they are.

I have 2 unifi wifi APs in the ceiling of my rv and 2 outdoor ones on the roof as well as a 5th in a bay and still only get 2 bars of wifi on the cerbo that isn't hardwired