While I agree it's a cheap switch. It is a high current disconnect. Can you please explain why it is not suitable to be used under load?Welcome to the party Partlyshady. I look forward to seeing your progress.
The switch (circled in red) may not be intended for use under load. The Anderson type (circled in yellow) connectors, which I have, can handle hundred of disconnects under load. Just sharing one of my "Soap Box" subjects.
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Many switches which refer to themselves as a "Disconnect" are not designed to cope with the DC arc. Unless the switch specifically states it is safe to use under load, it probably is not. If the instructions state something like "STOP MOTOR BEFORE DISCONNECTING" the switch is not suitable for disconnecting under load.While I agree it's a cheap switch. It is a high current disconnect. Can you please explain why it is not suitable to be used under load?
In my current form it is also used to break current from my gen set control (not pictured)
Ya, I had the same problem with the wife a couple of years ago when I spent money to install a whole house backup system. Funny, she hasn't said another word about it since the first time power went out in the area and we were the only house with electricity.Getting the hang of this .. will post better pics when it all goes back together. May be awhile wife doesn't share my enthusiasm.
Ok, I totally understand that but I don't think I'll ever have the occasion to turn off the inverter while it's under a load. Also like I said it powers up my other electronics nothing of high amperage. I have no illusions of it's quality.. but it works for now!Many switches which refer to themselves as a "Disconnect" are not designed to cope with the DC arc. Unless the switch specifically states it is safe to use under load, it probably is not. If the instructions state something like "STOP MOTOR BEFORE DISCONNECTING" the switch is not suitable for disconnecting under load.
Just because the switch is rated for high amperage does NOT mean it is approved for use under load.
Anderson plugs like the SB 120 are approved for use under load. www.andersonpower.com
"Hot Plug Current Rating Amperes - Wire & Busbar
250 cycles at 120V DC 60A"
Siemens safety switch Model No. GF222NA is approved for thousands of disconnects under load and states exactly that in the documentation.
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Other good products comes from Blue Sea. Not all are for use under load though. Numerous folks here in the forum use and like their products. It is very similar in design to the switch you have pictured but that is where the similarities end. It's worth the extra money.
Pre-Charge Switch
Really want to know if my wiring diagram at the bottom will work. This is in REference to @FilterGuy ’s Inverter DIsconnect with pre-charge in the resources at: https://diysolarforum.com/resources/inverter-disconnect-switch-with-precharge.60/ I m getting reday to build the 24 volt version...diysolarforum.com
If the switch costs $10 to $15 it's probably only good for disconnecting when under ZERO load. Check out reviews on the cheap switches, search for the word fire or melted.
Do your homework, read the instructions. If there are no instructions, my bet is it's crap waiting to fail.
We never have had that happen here because a lot of the utilities are under ground . For me it's educational and fun .. wish there was a Sunday show and shine cruise in for the solar nerds!Ya, I had the same problem with the wife a couple of years ago when I spent money to install a whole house backup system. Funny, she hasn't said another word about it since the first time power went out in the area and we were the only house with electricity.