Just got everything hooked up last night. Today was first day charging and my charge controller gave the battery over voltage warning at 15V. I immediately disconnected battery, waited a minute and then reconnected. After a moment the controller entered what I believe was "float" mode. I'm currently using the preset for LFP batteries but intend to use USER settings and put in the manufacturers suggested amounts. My question is this. My battery seemed to discharge quickly when just running my TV for an hour. It is down to 13.1V. However, when I initially hooked the battery up yesterday I checked it with a multimeter and it read 13.3V while the controller showed 13.1V. Am I missing something or have I done anything wrong? Just a bit insecure as this is my very first build with having learned mostly everything from YouTube. Any recommendations or guidance or suggestions are welcome and appreciated. I have four 100w renogy panels ran series/parallel, 40a renogy mppt charge controller, 3000w renogy pure sine wave inverter, 300ah chins lifepo4, 100a 12v fuse block.
Needing advice/suggestions/guidance on first install.
- Thread starter FTFamof4
- Start date
In my limited knowledge of Lithium -- we don't go by battery voltage to determin SOC (state of Charge) because lithium holds voltatage better than the FLA batteries -- do you have a Battery Monitor hooked up?? That will give you a better look at the SOC. what you have is somethng almost the same I'm planning for my own travel trailer. I would go and watch a couple of Will Prowse videos on you tube -- from what I've seen there - you have most everything done -- good luck
chrisski
Solar Boondocker
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- Aug 14, 2020
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Only way to tell battery health is to use some sort of battery monitor. AiLi makes one you can get on Amazon I got off Will’s recommendation, or Victron makes one for 5 times the cost with more accurate readings and Bluetooth capability.
A 3000 Watt inverter can use 1 amp an hour, which does not see, a lot, but could use the half to the total production of a 100 watts of panels per day.
A 3000 Watt inverter can use 1 amp an hour, which does not see, a lot, but could use the half to the total production of a 100 watts of panels per day.
Very important! Put a Class-T fuse a lot closer to the battery positive terminal. Why do you have a fuse and circuit breaker? The Class-T fuse should be in a Class-T fuse holder. Use a disconnect switch instead of the breaker on LFP battery.
I don't see cable gauge. Use a voltage drop table to select correct awg.
You would be well served having a positive BusBar. A connect to battery, fused at battery. Connects to devices, fuse block and seperate to inverter. With their fuses at the BusBar.
At 12 volts, the 3000W inverter will draw up to 250 amperes the whole time it is being used. That is close to 65 amp/hours in 15 minutes.
There will always be discrepancies between different battery gauges. I recommend the Victron Monitor using the smart shunt to keep track of charge/discharge cycles. LFP batteries like to be full charge, stop charging, discharge to some low point, then recharged full. They don't like float charging.
I don't see cable gauge. Use a voltage drop table to select correct awg.
You would be well served having a positive BusBar. A connect to battery, fused at battery. Connects to devices, fuse block and seperate to inverter. With their fuses at the BusBar.
At 12 volts, the 3000W inverter will draw up to 250 amperes the whole time it is being used. That is close to 65 amp/hours in 15 minutes.
There will always be discrepancies between different battery gauges. I recommend the Victron Monitor using the smart shunt to keep track of charge/discharge cycles. LFP batteries like to be full charge, stop charging, discharge to some low point, then recharged full. They don't like float charging.
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