Please give your opinion and tips. Precut premount marked up photo, schematic, & parts list

[BigCharlie]

Hi y'all. What you do think? I'm planning on mounting it today. The batteries I'll top-off individually before powering up.

Also, it just occurred to me that I haven't considered grounding.

The bus bars are 4 post, I have 5 connections. I'm planning on putting the battery and inverter on the same post.

The batteries are connected in a diagonal fashion. I'm considering attaching them individually to a post at a later date.

More details after images.





6 12V 105Ah lead-acid,
Victron Blue Smart IP22 Charger 12-Volt 30 amp 120V,
GIANDEL 2200W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter,
Victron 500A SmartShunt,
Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100V 30 amp 12/24-Volt Solar Charge Controller,
Renogy Flexible Solar Panel 175 Watt 12 Volt
Cut-off switches are rated at 275 A continuous at DC 12V, 455 A intermittent at DC 12V, 1250 A momentary at DC 12V
Bus bars rated at 250 amps @ 12V

Copied from my first post at: ​

My first setup. Is it wired correctly? Is perfectly balanced charging real?

EDIT: I forgot to add that I'll have a battery isolator switch between the panels and controller. And thinking about putting another one between the battery fuse OCPD1 and the bank. Is this kosher? This is to power my computers on a day-to-day basis (50W-150W 120V x 5-8 hours) with a little...

diysolarforum.com

Is this kosher?

This is to power my computers on a day-to-day basis (50W-150W 120V x 5-8 hours) with a little extra storage for blackouts. I didn't design it off of 'need requirements' but off of 'what I can do in the space available.' I don't have the panel space to power the entire apartment. I realize the components are outsized for this application I'll reuse them in a future project.

Panels get equal sun.

First off, I don't know what to think about the shore charger. I'm thinking it might need to be connected directly to the batteries, same posts as the 2/0 going to the buses. I'll have the charger top-off the batteries overnight.

I don't plan on there being any draw off of the inverter overnight. If there is (say 100W), would there be an issue with the charger and inverter running at the same time?

 

[rmaddy]

First big problem I see is the bus bars. They are only rated at 250A but you have a 300A battery fuse. This makes the bus bars the weak point in the system. You need bus bars rated at least 25% higher than the biggest fuse/breaker in the system. I suggest bus bars that support at least 350A. 400A is even better.

Same issue with the switch. It's rated at 275A. You need a switch that can handle more amps than the 300A fuse.

You have 6AWG wire from the 30A SCC to the bus bars. While that will work, it is much larger than needed. Make sure the SCC can accept 6AWG. 10AWG or 8AWG would be fine if you want.

Same with the 30A charger. 6AWG is fine but you don't need wire that thick.

The switch you have as a PV disconnect is probably a bad choice. What is the Voc of the solar panels? You should have a 2-pole DC breaker rated with high enough voltage for the solar panel array.

Consider putting the two panels in series instead of parallel. It will give you slightly better low-light performance. But note the higher Voc in series has even more impact on the choice of the PV disconnect.

First off, I don't know what to think about the shore charger. I'm thinking it might need to be connected directly to the batteries, same posts as the 2/0 going to the buses.

Connect the charger to the bus bars just like everything else. Your schematic is fine in the regard.

If there is (say 100W), would there be an issue with the charger and inverter running at the same time?

No problem. You can run the charger while the sun is out and you are also getting power from the SCC. As long as your batteries can handle the combined 60A of charge current then it will be fine.

 

[BigCharlie]

Hey man, thanks for the second set of eyes.

I'll figure out something with the bus bars, maybe lowering the fuse to 200A if I cannot find and/or afford the larger buses. When I ordered the busses from Amazon a month ago I seem to remember the higher amperage bars were really tough to find.
If you know a good place to order large ones, let me know!

I took a closer look at the specs for the switch I'm using as a PV disconnect. It's rated for up to 48 volts

The panels (2):

• Max Power at STC: 175W
• Open Circuit Voltage: 23.9V
• Short Circuit Current: 9.50A
• Optimum Operating Voltage: 19.5V
• Optimum Operating Current: 8.98A
• Operating Temperature: -40°F to 185°F
• Maximum System Voltage: 600VDC
• Maximum Series Fuse Rating: 15A

So I'm thinking I am good with that parallel or series but I may invest in a disconnect made for PV later on.

 

[rmaddy]

Lowering the main battery fuse to 200A would help with the bus bars and battery disconnect switch but it brings in a new issue. A 2200W inverter on a 12V setup mean up to 220A being pulled from the batteries. The 200A fuse will limit you to under 2000W. Once you hit around 2000W the fuse will blow.

A 48V switch with those two panels in series is sketchy since the two panels in series will be 47.8V at 77ºF. As it gets colder the Voc goes up. So you will be over 48V anytime the temperature is below 75ºF.