Please help me not start a fire.....

[JeffG]

Hello all,

This may be my first post on this forum not really sure, I've been lurking and learning for so long I can't remember if I have posted anything. So here goes, I have uploaded a diagram of my Victron install for the competent and highly educated masses to peruse and provide constructive criticism (with an eye on not letting this guy burn down his fifth wheel).

Let me thank you all in advance for even reading this far much less actually looking at the diagram and providing feedback, I know your time is valuable and unreturnable.

V/R
Jeff

 

[justinm001]

Here's his file as photo.


I don't see the point in on/off switches for the inverters. Also I'd run 4/0 instead of 2/0 from batteries. This helps against voltage drop when starting AC and such.

 

[hwy17]

It looks pretty good.

 

[MisterSandals]

The class T fuses should be right next to the battery and the cutoff switches between fuses and Lynx.

I'd consider putting the cutoff switch before your 24/12 converters because you don't have a way to turn them off (or do they have their own onboard on/off switches?) Just seems odd to switch output instead of input.

 

[justinm001]

The class T fuses should be right next to the battery and the cutoff switches between fuses and Lynx.

I'd consider putting the cutoff switch before your 24/12 converters because you don't have a way to turn them off (or do they have their own onboard on/off switches?) Just seems odd to switch output instead of input.

They have remote on/off wires so you can use a switch or just pull the little green plug.

 

[MisterSandals]

They have remote on/off wires so you can use a switch or just pull the little green plug.

So when would you use the switch at the 12V Lynx?

 

[justinm001]

So when would you use the switch at the 12V Lynx?

No clue. Also don't get why he'd need a Lynx for the 12v. People always seem to go overboard with switches. I have zero on my coach, my 48v batteries have Breakers builtin so use those and my 12v I just unscrew the lugs or remove the fuses if I need to work on the system.

 

[corn18]

What 12V DC loads do you have that require 140A? I have my DC loads set up for max 60A.

I would bus the two batt positive wires into a single 1+2 600A Blue Sea master cutoff switch. Ditch all the other switches.

You could eliminate the Lynx power in if you use the 1+2 switch for the positive wires and just attach both negative batt wires to the input of the Lynx shunt.

No need for the Lynx distributor on the DC loads unless you just want a really expensive fuse holder.

 

[justinm001]

What 12V DC loads do you have that require 140A? I have my DC loads set up for max 60A.

I would bus the two batt positive wires into a single 1+2 600A Blue Sea master cutoff switch. Ditch all the other switches.

You could eliminate the Lynx power in if you use the 1+2 switch for the positive wires and just attach both negative batt wires to the input of the Lynx shunt.

No need for the Lynx distributor on the DC loads unless you just want a really expensive fuse holder.

Those orions boost up to 85a which is nice and they're under $150 so having 2 for redundancy is nice. Also some slide motors can use over 100a from what I've heard.

On top of what you said if he's ditching the power in then a smartshunt is cheaper than the lynx shunt and you get Bluetooth. The lynx shunt is nice because it has a fuse holder and it will turn the lights on for the distributor but doesn't alarm if a distributor fuse is blown for whatever reason.

 

[JeffG]

Here's his file as photo.


I don't see the point in on/off switches for the inverters. Also I'd run 4/0 instead of 2/0 from batteries. This helps against voltage drop when starting AC and such.

Thanks for the assist with the photo sir! I figured since I went 24 volt the wiring would be smaller as there is less current flowing. I did install soft starts on both AC's though.

 

[JeffG]

The class T fuses should be right next to the battery and the cutoff switches between fuses and Lynx.

I'd consider putting the cutoff switch before your 24/12 converters because you don't have a way to turn them off (or do they have their own onboard on/off switches?) Just seems odd to switch output instead of input.

I will move the fuses and the cutoff switch to the appropriate positions, thanks!

 

[JeffG]

No clue. Also don't get why he'd need a Lynx for the 12v. People always seem to go overboard with switches. I have zero on my coach, my 48v batteries have Breakers builtin so use those and my 12v I just unscrew the lugs or remove the fuses if I need to work on the system.

Using the 12v Lynx for pure aesthetical and uniformity purposes.

 

[JeffG]

What 12V DC loads do you have that require 140A? I have my DC loads set up for max 60A.

I would bus the two batt positive wires into a single 1+2 600A Blue Sea master cutoff switch. Ditch all the other switches.

You could eliminate the Lynx power in if you use the 1+2 switch for the positive wires and just attach both negative batt wires to the input of the Lynx shunt.

No need for the Lynx distributor on the DC loads unless you just want a really expensive fuse holder.

I have an onboard generator that will need more than one Orion can handle.

I wanted a redundant battery setup incase one goes bad, I can still operate on the other while troubleshooting. The cutoff switches on each battery are actually the JK BMS on/off button which are very small, light up, and look good.

I like the looks of the Lynx eco system.

 

[JeffG]

Those orions boost up to 85a which is nice and they're under $150 so having 2 for redundancy is nice. Also some slide motors can use over 100a from what I've heard.

On top of what you said if he's ditching the power in then a smartshunt is cheaper than the lynx shunt and you get Bluetooth. The lynx shunt is nice because it has a fuse holder and it will turn the lights on for the distributor but doesn't alarm if a distributor fuse is blown for whatever reason.

Interesting, I thought it would pop on the Cerbo if fuse was blown.....hhhmmmm

 

[justinm001]

Interesting, I thought it would pop on the Cerbo if fuse was blown.....hhhmmmm

You'd think but nope, only if you have their lynx BMS for their batteries. It just turns the lights on. I have it on my 48v setup. Might tell you if the fuse in the lynx shunt blows not sure.

2/0 would work fine since you're running both to the lynx. 4/0 is just better and if short distances worth the few bucks so no voltage drops. With soft starts much less of an issue.

It's really the best setup you can get.