Trying to figure out battery needs for my Wheel Van /RV

[PAL1]

Long story but I had a surgeon really botch a surgery causing progressive loss of feeling in the arms and legs . I have a van now but i cant go anywhere or do anything because every 3 days i get these IVs very similar to chemo that are helping to slowi things down . My Doc came up with a solution where I can do an IV on my own now which means i can go south again. . The stuff I get is very expensive and very perishable and has to be refrigerated. I was doing ice at first but it got to be way too physically demanding . Didn't quit yet. So I got a 12 V Coleman cooler and the 2 x 200 panels kit from Renogy installed and the 2 biggest sealed deep cycle AGM batteries Walmart carried . The system worked for a week The controller died . Renogy has no customer service or support . After 9 months I finally got a human who told me I need to go on the roof of my wheelchair van and "run the following tests " before they'd consider letting me retun it. Didn't sound safe to me. It was over $150 to get a guy to look at it so I was better off putting that towards a new one. Got the Rover controller. I let the batteries charge all day, then run my Coleman 12V cooler over night . After only about 6 weeks in my batteries were struggling to hold enough to run all night . I thought 2 would do it. Doing ice, emptying a cooler is just not an option.
So I'm trying to figure out what would be an affordable and reliable way to store the energy to power a cooler. My LTD insurer has been really nasty so cost is a major consuderation. Right now Ive spent a lot, nothing works but I at least have 2 great almost new really heavy boat anchors ( theres an upside to everything)

I checked this battery out. Would 1 work? Or 2 ?
https://a.co/d/7nNlGzS

Or better off with 1 of these ?
https://a.co/d/7s1clAM

Btw im based in Ontario Canada . Unless i can figure this out then I'll be in Florida
Any input is really appreciated.
Take care,
Paul

 

[Doug42]

Hey Pal1,
I'm sorry to hear about your trouble. What you are trying to do is definitely possible on a budget. I suspect the problem you have run into is thermoelectric vs compressor fridges. Do you know what type yours is? a thermoelectric cooler uses an order of magnitude more energy than a compressor fridge.

Like : https://www.amazon.ca/Alpicool-Portable-Refrigerator-Vehicle-Freezer/dp/B073WYS3TR/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1QLQMO5SYX8DR&keywords=alpicool+fridge&qid=1696537033&s=automotive&sprefix=alpicool+fridg,automotive,74&sr=1-6&th=1

I have been using that specific one back in the UK and it works great. DC compressors used to be expensive but the cheap ones are pretty good. I suspect the cheapest way for you to solve the problem would be to grab a DC compressor fridge which would more than triple your battery to load ratio. I have used them in two van builds so far with no trouble.

Just to check you have enough already, how many AH of of AGM battery do you currently have?

If you go the route of battery upgrade I would always for LiFePO4 as they work out cheaper in the long run and are better in every conceivable way. (always remeber that with lead based you can only really use the 50-100% if you don't want to wreck the thing, so 1Ah LFP = 2Ah lead).
there are probably cheaper out there than the one you found, if you dig

My cheap compressor fridge uses ~45W when running and only turns on maybe 1/4 of the time so maybe uses about 12W continuous, or 1Ah. for grey day contingency you maybe want 2 day autonomy so 48Ah usable. so 50Ah LFP is fine or 100AH Lead. this should be plenty as it is unlikely to get 2 days with NO solar. With a thermoelectric fridge you can at least triple that power draw and needed battery size..

Edit: I am in Ottawa, if you need someone to give you a hand and you are in the area, drop me a message, no $150 fees

 

[PAL1]

Hey thanks for such a detailed reply and the generous offer.. Really appreciate it. Im way over by Barrie..but I have a really unpopular Sens jacket. . I was AWOL a bit but still Ive got my settings turned on here for notifications but...nothing . Just saw the reply now Ive still been stumped and hoped someone with a little expertise saw this . Awesome. You asked all the right questiins . The cooler Im using is this one ( link) , its the 12V Coleman that was really popular with truckers . Of course i just bought a replacenent one . It says it uses 65 W but you mentiined something I never thought of . This cooler runs continuously . 64c0219e1c7437f8b3b84d975dfb458f

Thd batteries Im using are the 2 biggest deep cycle everstart marine batteries i could find at a US Walmart. . I dont know what Im talking about but from reading snother pist I think these batteries are toast already . They charge right up when hooked up to solar but the second the sun goes down you can. Watch the voltage drop quickly. They lasted only weeks, suppisedly AGM dep cycle , but Im also seeing people had trouble as well. How come I cant find those reviews "before " ?
Do you think the 65 W cooler would work with one of those bateries or you think I should chuck the batteries and the fridge too ? , Thanks again . And Ill check back now that Ive refound my post
Take care
Paul

 

[PAL1]

Hey Pal1,
I'm sorry to hear about your trouble. What you are trying to do is definitely possible on a budget. I suspect the problem you have run into is thermoelectric vs compressor fridges. Do you know what type yours is? a thermoelectric cooler uses an order of magnitude more energy than a compressor fridge.

Like : https://www.amazon.ca/Alpicool-Portable-Refrigerator-Vehicle-Freezer/dp/B073WYS3TR/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1QLQMO5SYX8DR&keywords=alpicool+fridge&qid=1696537033&s=automotive&sprefix=alpicool+fridg,automotive,74&sr=1-6&th=1

I have been using that specific one back in the UK and it works great. DC compressors used to be expensive but the cheap ones are pretty good. I suspect the cheapest way for you to solve the problem would be to grab a DC compressor fridge which would more than triple your battery to load ratio. I have used them in two van builds so far with no trouble.

Just to check you have enough already, how many AH of of AGM battery do you currently have?

If you go the route of battery upgrade I would always for LiFePO4 as they work out cheaper in the long run and are better in every conceivable way. (always remeber that with lead based you can only really use the 50-100% if you don't want to wreck the thing, so 1Ah LFP = 2Ah lead).
there are probably cheaper out there than the one you found, if you dig

My cheap compressor fridge uses ~45W when running and only turns on maybe 1/4 of the time so maybe uses about 12W continuous, or 1Ah. for grey day contingency you maybe want 2 day autonomy so 48Ah usable. so 50Ah LFP is fine or 100AH Lead. this should be plenty as it is unlikely to get 2 days with NO solar. With a thermoelectric fridge you can at least triple that power draw and needed battery size..

Edit: I am in Ottawa, if you need someone to give you a hand and you are in the area, drop me a message, no $150 fees

Hey Pal1,
I'm sorry to hear about your trouble. What you are trying to do is definitely possible on a budget. I suspect the problem you have run into is thermoelectric vs compressor fridges. Do you know what type yours is? a thermoelectric cooler uses an order of magnitude more energy than a compressor fridge.

Like : https://www.amazon.ca/Alpicool-Portable-Refrigerator-Vehicle-Freezer/dp/B073WYS3TR/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1QLQMO5SYX8DR&keywords=alpicool+fridge&qid=1696537033&s=automotive&sprefix=alpicool+fridg,automotive,74&sr=1-6&th=1

I have been using that specific one back in the UK and it works great. DC compressors used to be expensive but the cheap ones are pretty good. I suspect the cheapest way for you to solve the problem would be to grab a DC compressor fridge which would more than triple your battery to load ratio. I have used them in two van builds so far with no trouble.

Just to check you have enough already, how many AH of of AGM battery do you currently have?

If you go the route of battery upgrade I would always for LiFePO4 as they work out cheaper in the long run and are better in every conceivable way. (always remeber that with lead based you can only really use the 50-100% if you don't want to wreck the thing, so 1Ah LFP = 2Ah lead).
there are probably cheaper out there than the one you found, if you dig

My cheap compressor fridge uses ~45W when running and only turns on maybe 1/4 of the time so maybe uses about 12W continuous, or 1Ah. for grey day contingency you maybe want 2 day autonomy so 48Ah usable. so 50Ah LFP is fine or 100AH Lead. this should be plenty as it is unlikely to get 2 days with NO solar. With a thermoelectric fridge you can at least triple that power draw and needed battery size..

Edit: I am in Ottawa, if you need someone to give you a hand and you are in the area, drop me a message, no $150 fees

Think I can get away with one of these or would I need 2 if i kept my old ( new) cooler.? I guess Im trying to figure out the best combination of a 12V fridge and batterues .

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https://www.amazon.ca/LiFePO4-Lithium-Battery-4000-15000-Perfect/dp/B084DB36KW/ref=asc_df_B084DB36KW/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=337115858075&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18397168220168567355&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9047907&hvtargid=pla-901567943688&psc=1&mcid=0297be47ef583c6db7a3baaf54864813

Mighty Max Battery

Mighty Max Battery 12V 100AH Battery for Solar Wind DEEP Cycle VRLA 12V 24V 48V : Amazon.ca: Sports & Outdoors

https://www.amazon.ca/100AH-BATTERY-SOLAR-WIND-CYCLE/dp/B00S2MDZFK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1YO7OV2UOC1K8&keywords=solar+battery+12+v&qid=1694130961&sprefix=solar+battery+12+v%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.d0e27fc4-6417-4b26-97cb-f959a9930752#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

Thanks again