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Utility company visited me for exporting from my solar Off-grid growatt LVM-ES SPF 3000TL

vallesj

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I received a visit from my utility company today asking me to disconnect my solar panels system. I told him it was impossible because my system was not designed to export back to grid, it just help charge battery and support for my loads, because my system is off-grid. He told me my smart meter was giving an error, he was courteous indicating that this is just a request that but because I don't have a contract agreement with them they will lock my meter until I disconnect. They don't want to get that way because right now is extremely hot here in Texas, but they will if I don't comply.
PXL_20240603_162819160.jpg
Can anyone confirm that the error code D7 is related to feedback to grid?

Anyways, as soon as I put the breaker that supplies electricity to my growatt as off the error code disappeared.

I am contacting the vendor (watts247.com) about this issue, or my growatt is defective or it just not designed correctly (at least on the internal programming). I am guessing growatt shares the same hardware between offgrid and grid tie inverters.

Edit days later:
I completed my investigation and have more data from my growatt records and from my emporia VUE that records my consumptions at main panel. Thanks to @hwy17 for the definition of the D7 error code that means one of the phases the current was inverted.

The conditions when it happened could be seen on the following graph
graphs.png
Being SUB, I had the system imported from grid to support my loads at night, and when the sun rises solar starts taking over. On previous days was not an issue, because battery was not fully charged and grid was always being imported a little bit to help charge it but the afternoon before the battery became fully charged and no more grid assistance to charge it was needed. The AC input to the device is connected to a dedicated socket wired to a 40A breaker from main panel. The loads are on a transfer switch, feed by the growatt. I still maintain big loads such as AC, stove, dryer, and a couple of small circuits on the grid main panel, but the 3000W from the device are enough to cover most of my small loads. The biggest load is just 1200W from an electric grill. I am on a 240V panel from grid, were 2 lines feed the main panel, and each of them become 120v when neutral is used. The stars were aligned at 11:10am, so on the same main panel circuit/line were I have the growatt none of the other remained loads at my hose were ON, so the only consumption was the growatt, and at that specific time morning shades freed my panels so it started to produce more power to fully cover my loads, so importing from grid was not needed so it went to zero, and probably beyond that.
emporia.png
Accuracy on the VUE is not that perfect, but gives you in idea. Main_A and Main_B are the 2 lines coming from the utility smart meter, you can see that at 11:21am it was negative Main_B... but probably the others small numbers were considered negative by the smart meter. The hall sensors used on those 2 wires Main_A and B are read bidirecionally, but the hall sensors for each of the circuits are only setup for 1 direction. So those red numbers on the "Growatt" circuit is not possible to confirm if positive or negative. Anyways, the Utility guy arrived to my home around 11:20AM, may be he is a field technician already in my neighborhood when the meter alerted them. When you call them it takes them hours to arrive, but if someone is feeding without a contract, it is just a couple of minutes to show up. I believe the error does not stay permanently once activated, because as soon as I turned off the breaker for the growatt, I looked at the meter and the error was not longer there. So I believe my device was backfeeding enough time to get their attention. Be careful, those are assumptions since I don't know who their system works.
Before you asked, circuit "Light-luz patio" was consuming at that time, but it was consuming from Main_A.
The following table shows the data coming from the growatt, and how it was PV&Grid Charging+GridBypass at the time the back feed happened.
growatt export.png
It shows how the battery was not being used to support any loads until I switched off the breaker for the growatt.

As some had already mentioned here, these devices supported the loads at the same time grid is used. In order to do that they are basically matching the grid frequency from the grid with the inverter, and tie them together. And if their circuits are not faster, or accurately sensing currents, when the grid import is transitioned out, there is the possibility of backfeeding through the AC input if the cut off is not fast enough.
edit 6/5:
More testings performed today to continue the investigation. I was brave enough to connect the AC input again. Before that, I moved 2 circuits with constant charge to the same line the growatt breaker is installed, the fridge and modem/routers. Modems/routers are around 30 watts constant, while fridge is around 11 watts without compressor on. Here are the results:
Screenshot_2.png
Again there was a back feed at one point, in 1 second it flowed back around 220 watts. It happens at the point where the Grid import on the growatt was reduced 500w to 70W, which also correspond to a ~1000w load (dishwasher) was getting off. Growatt data does not have that good resolution so I can be sure.
I went out to see if there was any error from the smart meter, and fortunately it was not. Since the screen from it is rotating different information, one of them said "Test", well actually all LED are on, so I am not sure if that is a test or not.
PXL_20240605_182009810_exported_0.jpg
but it lasted for about 5 seconds. So it is possible that if your backflow is in around 1 seconds, it will not trigger the error since the test sampling time of the meter is not that fast. May be the constant loads helped to maintain that grid line wattage farther than zero, so the meter did not considered that blimp worth of the Error D7. This situation requires more testing, I mean it is not economical to keep a 300W constant load if that is basically the saving I am getting from the system.
By the way, 1 hour after that 1 second backflow and nobody had knocked the door yet.
 
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Apparently my MPP 8048 units do the same thing. They said I have leaked 43kwh over the last year. I have 24kw of panels and 4 of these units connected. So it's a very small amount of current, but still current.

I am working on my interconnect agreement. My "plans" were just approved. Hoping to have it wrapped up by the end of the month.

You will need a disconnect at your meter. If you already have that, then it's pretty well push button. Also it allows you to get paid for any excess.
 
From one of the Focus meter manuals:
Diagnostic D7 (Energy Polarity Check) - The D7 diagnostic checks for reverse energy flow of one or more phases. If the energypolarity (watts) for any phase is negative, this flag is tripped. This check is not performed ifphase A voltage is missing.
What's interesting is it says one or more phases, so that would imply that this can even detect imbalanced zero export, like 2 amps going out on one leg and 2 amps going in on the other. I believe some of these "zero export" modes on inverters do consider this a zero export state.

(footnote: yes I understand 120/240 is single phase, but in meter terminology I believe the two ungrounded conductors are still sometimes referred to as "phases" individually)

Thank you for sharing this with us, it's a valuable case report on a hot topic for the community.
 
one solution for you is to not connect grid to your inverter input, but use grid to power a Chargeverter to charge battery and run loads.

This is why I don't like using my inverter (XW Pro) as a charger or even bypass. Too messy for me. I use it ONLY as an inverter and ignore its charger and grid input. I am wired so that I "can" connect, but grid breaker is OFF, OFF, OFF

If I need extra power, I turn on one of my chargeverters and connect it to the grid. It runs my loads and charges my battery. Yes I lose power with AC to DC back to AC, but oh well

I can also connect the chargeverter to a backup generator if needed. I have 2 chargeverters and have retained the L14-30p on each

here is a picture of the setup with them

power wall highlighted.jpg
 
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I know that my Growatts (SPF-5000-ES) leaked a tiny amount (6w in a month), when they were connected to the grid in SUB mode.
They are no longer connected to the grid.
 
one solution for you is to not connect to your inverter, but use grid to power a Chargeverter to charge battery and run loads.

This is why I don't like using my inverter (XW Pro) as a charger. I use it ONLY as an inverter and ignore its charger. If I need extra power, I turn on my chargeverter connected to the grid. It runs my loads and charges my battery. Yes I lose power with AC to DC back to AC, but oh well
I do the same. But it's automatically controlled through the Dry contacts.
 
Is the chargeverter compatible or do you use an AC contactor to power them on and off?
Yes And yes, I guess.
Not sure what you mean by compatible.
It's a 48v charger and a 48v system.
 
How hard is it to get an interconnect agreement from your utility? It might save you the headache.
I know that my Growatts (SPF-5000-ES) leaked a tiny amount (6w in a month), when they were connected to the grid in SUB mode.
They are no longer connected to the grid.
More expensive, time consuming, etc. I decided to go this way just because of that, otherwise I had a grid tie inverter already.

I believe this export happened when my battery was fully charged today. I had it without battery for a couple of days and never received a visit, however I did not know that the meter will be giving errors may be the error was there and I was not aware.
 
The Dry contacts control a relay on the chargeverter AC input.
It turns on at 48v. And the chargeverter is set at 48.3v. The chargeverter keeps the battery at 48,3v until the sun comes up. Solar begins charging and the chargeverter goes idle. Then the relay turns off at 50v.
 
I mean, why I chargeverter if the growatt is supposed to do that? Then the route would be only an MPPT charger, and inverter, and a chargeverter... but this AIO is supposed to do all of them.

I mean, there is a flaw on the design of this Growatt, and it looks like other similar AIO have the same issue. Batteries are really expensive, so not using grid to support the loads requires a considerable investment on a battery setup. I thought growatt was a respectable brand, but it seems it is not. And why going to an agreement with utility if my AIO is not supposed to export to grid?
 
I mean, why I chargeverter if the growatt is supposed to do that? Then the route would be only an MPPT charger, and inverter, and a chargeverter... but this AIO is supposed to do all of them.

I mean, there is a flaw on the design of this Growatt, and it looks like other similar AIO have the same issue. Batteries are really expensive, so not using grid to support the loads requires a considerable investment on a battery setup. I thought growatt was a respectable brand, but it seems it is not. And why going to an agreement with utility if my AIO is not supposed to export to grid?
reality sucks sometimes, sorry man

I guess the grid's detection hw and sw are getting better

in yesterday's grid the inverters were ghosting the grid, not so much to day
 
one solution for you is to not connect to your inverter, but use grid to power a Chargeverter to charge battery and run loads.

This is why I don't like using my inverter (XW Pro) as a charger. I use it ONLY as an inverter and ignore its charger. If I need extra power, I turn on my chargeverter connected to the grid. It runs my loads and charges my battery. Yes I lose power with AC to DC back to AC, but oh well
You don't lose, you gain a double conversion ups.
 
I mean, there is a flaw on the design of this Growatt, and it looks like other similar AIO have the same issue. Batteries are really expensive, so not using grid to support the loads requires a considerable investment on a battery setup. I thought growatt was a respectable brand, but it seems it is not. And why going to an agreement with utility if my AIO is not supposed to export to grid?
Export blips are a fundamental challenge that cannot be easily overcome. When a large load turns off, the inverter just cannot react in time to prevent the leakage. And there is no such thing as an AC "diode" that can concretely prevent this.

That's what's made it a hot topic here, and driven some of us to go with double conversion.
 
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